Gifts of Grandeur: The Brogden Cameo Necklace, 1867

Cameo necklace
John Brogden, 1867
The Victoria & Albert Museum

This necklace, in the archaeological style features layered agate cameos inspired by the fashionable classical hardstone gems. The piece was made by the jeweler John Brogden and purchased by the V&A from the International Exhibition in Paris of 1867.

Brogden won a number of awards at the International Exhibitions in London and Paris from 1851-1878. Brogden is known for his pieces rendered in ancient styles.  He is recorded as having studied the archeological finds at Nineveh and Pompeian where he used the wall paintings for as inspiration for his jewels. He also famously worked in the Rennaissance style.  A collection of drawings by Brogden showing the original designs for many of his gems also lives at the V&A along with many of the finished pieces.

This particular example, a lovely enameled gold necklace is hung with cameos of classical masks in layered agate, chalcedony and onyx, which Brogden created based on ancient specimens.  He altered the source material by presenting the masks in the late 18th century Neoclassical manner. An applied plaque with the maker's mark of John Brogden, reads 'JB' in Roman capitals.  This came from Brogden's Covent Garden, on Henrietta Street, workshop and dates to 1867.

Drawing of the Day: A Design for a Brooch by John Brogden, c. 1860

Design for a Ruby Brooch
John Brogden, c. 1860
The Victoria & Albert Museum

I’ve always enjoyed the work of English Victorian jeweler John Brogden. In fact, I’ve often found the drawings he made while designing his jewels to be just as attractive as the finished products.

This design for a brooch is from an album of designs which Brogden created between 1848-1884. The album contains 1,593 designs for jewels and demonstrates the wide range of styles which Brogden produced.

Brogden’s firm was founded by John Brogden the Elder around 1796. For awhile, the firm was called “Brogden & Garland,” and, then, until 1841, it was styled “Garland & Watherston.” Around 1848, J.W. Garland departed the firm, leaving his partner, J.H. Watherston to move the concern to a new location. At this time, the son of Thomas Brogden (who may or may not have been the son, or maybe the nephew, of John Brogden the Elder) was working as an apprentice with the firm. The younger Brogden joined forces with Watherston, and, ultimately took over the firm, returning it to its original name. 


The younger Brogden quickly became the toast of London Society and this design shows why. This drawing of pencil and watercolor on card depicts a design for a gold brooch in the Renaissance style. It features a large red ruby and a hanging pendant with gold tassels. The brooch was produced in the 1860s. 

Mastery of Design: The Brogden Cameo Necklace, 1867

Cameo necklace
John Brogden, 1867
The Victoria & Albert Museum

This necklace, in the archaeological style features layered agate cameos inspired by the fashionable classical hardstone gems. The piece was made by the jeweler John Brogden and purchased by the V&A from the International Exhibition in Paris of 1867.

Brogden won a number of awards at the International Exhibitions in London and Paris from 1851-1878. Brogden is known for his pieces rendered in ancient styles.  He is recorded as having studied the archeological finds at Nineveh and Pompeian where he used the wall paintings for as inspiration for his jewels. He also famously worked in the Rennaissance style.  A collection of drawings by Brogden showing the original designs for many of his gems also lives at the V&A along with many of the finished pieces.

This particular example, a lovely enameled gold necklace is hung with cameos of classical masks in layered agate, chalcedony and onyx, which Brogden created based on ancient specimens.  He altered the source material by presenting the masks in the late 18th century Neoclassical manner. An applied plaque with the maker's mark of John Brogden, reads 'JB' in Roman capitals.  This came from Brogden's Covent Garden, on Henrietta Street, workshop and dates to 1867.