Mastery of Design: The Emerald Parure of the Empress Marie-Louise

Image courtesy of the Louvre Museum

This magnificent emerald and diamond parure, on display with the collection of the French Crown Jewels at the Louvre, was originally part of a suite presented by Napoleon I to Archduchess Marie-Louise of Austria on the occasion of their wedding in 1810. The necklace and earrings were later bequeathed to Grand Duke Leopold II of Tuscany.


The necklace is a stunning collection of 32 emeralds (the center emerald weighs 13.75 carats), 874 brilliant cut diamonds, and 264 rose cut diamonds. The emeralds exhibit a rare clarity and alternate between oval and lozenge-shaped stones, surrounded by diamonds. The emeralds are separated by palmettes, each of which encloses a small round emerald. A pear-shaped emerald surrounded by diamonds hangs from each large emerald. The centerpiece of each earring is a large emerald surrounded by brilliant cut diamonds.

The original parure consisted of the necklace, earrings, a tiara and a comb. The diadem and comb no longer exist in their original states. This masterpiece was designed by François-Regnault Nitot of the celebrated jeweler, Etienne Nitot et fils.

The parure has a rich and colorful history. In 1953, the descendants of the Grand Duke sold the necklace to Van Cleef & Arpels. The tiara was broken apart and the emeralds were sold individually. The tiara’s framework was sold to an American collector who set turquoise in the place of the missing emeralds. That piece now resides in the Smithsonian, though it can hardly be considered part of the original set anymore. The comb was completely destroyed. Fortunately, the necklace and earrings remain in tact and were donated to the Louvre in 1988. Thankfully, we can continue to enjoy this beautiful work of the jeweler’s art. If only stones could talk…