Thursday, May 31, 2012

History's Runway: A Boating Suit, 1890-1900

Gentleman's Boating Suit
England
1890-1900
The Victoria & Albert Museum




Light-colored suits such as the one pictured above became fashionable for gents from the 1890s. Matching coats, trousers and waistcoats (these were known as “dittos”) in pin-striped flannel were acceptable casual dress for summer sports and holidays. An outfit like this was often completed with a straw boater hat. I would like to dress this way, I think. But, people might stare.

Cricket, tennis and rowing were very fashionable seaside pursuits during the summer. Suits like this would have been perfect for these events. Since social conventions were relaxing a tad during the end of the Nineteenth Century, a gentleman only had to sweat through these light layers instead of the usual heavy, dark wool outfit he’d previously have been forced to wear. One gentlemen's etiquette book, “Manners for Men,” by Mrs. Humphry (known as “Madge of Truth”) was published in 1897. In it, Mrs. Humprhry writes that:

'There are special suits for all kinds of outdoor amusements, such as shooting, golfing, tennis, boating, driving, riding, bicycling, fishing, hunting, &c., but into the details of these it is unnecessary to enter. It may be remarked, however, that it is easy to stultify the whole effect of these, however perfectly they may be built 'by the tailor' by the addition of a single incongruous article of attire; such as a silk hat or patent boots with a shooting-suit.'

The example that we see here was made between 1890-1900 by an unknown English tailor and consists of cream wool with blue pinstripe. It is both hand- and machine-sewn.



Object of the Day: A Trade Card for the Great China and Japan Tea Co.




Today we have a handsome Victorian trade card which boasts a peaceful chromolithograph of a scene of an attractive couple being shuttled in a boat on a calm lake. This sort of stock card with a fashionable scene would have been purchased in bulk from a catalog by a retailer who had his own information printed on the reverse.

In this instance, the card was used by The Great China and Japan Tea Company of Harrisburg, Pennsylvania.

The reverse reads:

FROM 

35 NORTH THIRD ST., 

Opera House Building, Harrisburg, Pa. 

----- 

If you wish to taste a TEA in perfection 

TRY OUR 50-CENT MIXED! 

It is a blend of several Teas, each one in such proportion as not to destroy the flavor of either. 

----- 

OUR DELICIOUS COFFEES! 

At 20 and 25 cents per pound, beat anything in the market 

----- 

Please give us a call, as we consider it not only a pleasure, but a privilege to serve you. DON’T MISS THE PLACE. 

----- 

The Great China and Japan Tea Co. 
35 NORTH THIRD STREET





Wednesday, May 30, 2012

Mastery of Design: The Cory Diamond Spray, 1860



Lady Cory's Diamond Spray
London, 1860
The Victoria & Albert Museum



From the massive jewelry collection of Lady Cory, we see this spray ornament of brilliant-cut and rose-cut diamonds set in silver which was made around 1860 during the height of the fashion for Naturalistic jewelry.

The ornament was intended for use on the bodice or the head. The floral spray is created in three attached units, with two “tremblers” set in silver. The design represents blooming roses, rosebuds and leaves.





Painting of the Day: Mrs.Mills as Little Pickle in The Spoiled Child, 1802

Mrs. Mills in "The Spoiled Child," 1802
Samuel de Wilde
The Victoria & Albert Museum



This three-quarter length drawing, dating to 1802, of a young woman depicts the sitter dressed in the tight blue tail coat and soft, frilled white shirt which was the typical costume of a young boy in the early nineteenth century. The girl’s hair is short and she carries a small whip with a top hat, balanced on its tip, in her right hand.

The painting is entitled “’Mrs. Mills’ as ‘Little Pickle’ in ‘The Spoiled Child.’” Clearly, this is an actress playing a part. The play, “The Spoiled Child,” was a farce in two acts which we know was performed at the Theatre Drury Lane in 1790 and, in 1804, as well as in Covent Garden in 1820, Haymarket in 1826 and the English Opera in 1926. The character seen pictured here is “Little Pickle,” who, as his name might suggest, was a cheeky and troublesome schoolboy—originally played by a woman. 

In this watercolor image, we see one of the first actresses to play “Little Pickle” in the original production. The painting was created by Samuel De Wilde (1748 - 1832).



Print of the Day: Men's Evening Dress, 1920

Men's Fashion Plate
France, 1920
The Victoria & Albert Museum



We’re accustomed to seeing fashion plates for women’s clothing—especially from the Victorian era. However, this fashion plate, from 1920, by Georges Gorvel shows men’s fashions. It is from the journal
Gazette du Bon Ton (1912-1915, 1920-1925)—a journal which featured articles about theatre, travel and other pursuits of interest to the leisured wealthy man, but with a main emphasis which was always on fashion. The journal was intended for the Parisian élite, and was famed for introducing men’s fashions in color plates such as this one which anticipated the Art Deco style. The illustrations typically were stenciled by hand with watercolor in a technique known as pochoir.

This fashion plate from 1920 shows a smoking man in evening dress. He is elegantly dressed with tails and a top hat. The only hint of color in the glamorous image is his yellow glove.

Unusual Artifacts: A Top Hat Box, 1890-99

Hat Box of Leather and Silk
Containing two fine hats
1890-1899
The Victoria & Albert Museum



This hatbox, dating to about 1890 to 1899, is made of brown leather, and boasts two leather straps with snap fastenings and a handle for transportation. The box is lined with red grosgrain—essentially, a heavy, corded silk which is primarily used for ribbon.

The case contains two fine hats. Inside the bottom part of the hatbox is a top hat of black silk plush, lined with white satin. The V&A notes, “The top of the hat has a ventilation hole marked 'Extra Quality Trade Mark Dunlop & Co Reg. US Patent Office'.” The top portion of the hatbox contains a gibus (a top hat with a collapsible crown, which came into fashion in the 1840s and was worn with evening dress) of black silk grosgrain lined with black silk marked 'Extra Quality Trade Mark Dunlop & Co., Copyrighted CBH'.  Sadly, we have no pictures of the hats.

While this box contains two hats, some hatboxes included a storage space for a the type of brush which was used to keep the hats shiny and smooth by bushing the nap. These brushes were often used for advertising by hatters and were given away with new hats. 






Mr. Punch of Belgrave Square, Chapter 49


Chapter 49: 
To Protect the Crown 



Your Grace, you…” The beadle raised his eyebrows. “You killed that man?”

“I certainly did.” Mr. Punch, still speaking as the Duke of Fallbridge, nodded matter-of-factly.

“Think of what you’re doing…” Robert whispered.

“I’m simply telling the truth, my dear.” Mr. Punch smiled though he was not telling the truth at all.

“Why, sir?” The officer asked.

“The man gave me no choice. Did he, Charles?” Punch looked up at Charles who managed to maintain a cool expression despite the fact that his heart was racing.

“No, Sir.” Charles shook his head. “He gave you no choice.”

“He’s lying!” Eudora Stover shrieked. “He’s trying to protect his companion!”

“The man’s a loon!” Hortence chimed in.

“You see,” Punch began before the office could ask any more questions and before the two women could cause any more trouble. “My work puts me in a delicate position. I am privy to all manner of delicate matters regarding Their Majesties. In fact, I’m working on a special project for Her Majesty at this very moment. Now, the poor Queen—heavy with child—trusts me to protect her privacy and that of the Prince Consort. The Prince recently entrusted me with some very specific information—information which I am not at liberty to discuss. Now, as you well know, there are many in the Kingdom who would do the Queen harm and whose sole enterprise is to trade in her secrets…”

“He’s mad!” Hortence interrupted.

“Quiet, you!” The officer snapped.

“Thank you,” Mr. Punch smiled. “Upon our recent luncheon with Prince Albert, my companion and I discussed some very sensitive issues with the Prince regarding…” Punch paused dramatically, looking at Eudora and Hortence. “Well, I really cannot say.”

“I see, Sir.” The beadle nodded.

“Prior to that luncheon, my companion and I had made some very important notations in my private journal regarding the matters about which we were to engage the Prince Consort. You see, Officer, the day before this meeting, we had noticed Mr. Stover following us.”

“We did, Sir.” Charles said quickly. “We saw him watching us in Covent Garden. Other members of the staff are able to corroborate this.”

“Without thinking, I asked my man, Charles, to put my journal in our carriage so that I would not forget it. I’m an artist, you understand. So, I’m prone to being absent-minded. Still, more so, with so many delicate matters on my mind, I must always try to think what is best for the monarchy.”

“Yes,” The beadle nodded again.

“However, about an hour before we were to depart for the palace, I grew nervous, recalling Mr. Stover and the many times he’d been spotted prowling around our property.”

“I can list several times I spotted him.” Charles added.

“As can I.” Gerard said. “Many of us can.”

“So, I personally went to the mews to retrieve my journal.” Punch continued. “I’m certainly glad that I did.”

“You found Mr. Stover, then?” The beadle asked.

“Most certainly.” Punch nodded. “He’d gotten into our carriage. Now that I think of it, he probably gained admission through his nephew. You see, Mr. Stover, unbeknownst to us had planted his nephew, Tom, in our household where he had been employed as a page. This young man here.” Punch pointed to Tom, grinning.

“Are you the nephew of the deceased?” the beadle asked.

“Well, yes, sir, but…”

“Who knows how long Mr. Stover and his family had been plotting against us in order to gain access to private information about Crown and Country?” Mr. Punch said theatrically.

The beadle scowled.

“Well, Officer, when I saw Mr. Stover with my private papers, I became enraged. I struck him—repeatedly—in an attempt to make him release my notations. He finally did and scurried off. I thought I’d finally rid myself of him, but I worried how much he had seen about…the important matter.”

“I see.” The beadle frowned.

“You can’t believe this?” Eudora shrieked.

“That’s enough out of you!” The officer snapped.

“Anxiously, Dr. Halifax and I went to keep our meeting with the Prince Consort.”

“And, that’s when Mr. Stover returned.” Charles lied.

“You saw him, then?”

“Yes, Officer.” Charles continued. “I’m the Duke’s man. Charles Iantosca. I’ve been the Duke’s personal valet for some time, Sir. I’m also first footman. And, I’m frequently with His Grace. I’ve seen Mr. Stover lurking about many times.”

“We both did.” Gerard added.

“He threatened us, Sir.” Charles shook his head.

“William was no spy. That’s not what we were about!” Hortence wailed. “All we wanted…”

“Shut up!” Eudora growled.

“What did you want?” The officer asked.

“Nothing.” Hortence replied quickly.

“Sir,” Charles interrupted. “Mr. Stover was clearly weakened by the beating that the Duke had given him. Gerard and I scrapped with him further. By this point, the Duke and Dr. Halifax were long gone. I punched him and he fell—dead. So, you see, it wasn’t the Duke who killed him.”

“Yes, Charles, it was.” Punch spoke over his man. “It was my initial beating which caused his death. However, I cannot think of any man in my position who would not do the same in order to protect the Sovereign.”

“Of course, Your Grace.” The beadle nodded.

“Once he was dead,” Charles continued, “Gerard here—he and I tried to carry him off, but…”

“You weren’t sure what to do with the man.” The beadle nodded.

“Yes.” Charles and Gerard said in unison.

“Clearly they’re lying!” Eudora scoffed.

“What of you?” The beadle barked. “You’re the bastion of truth?”

“What do you mean?” Eudora frowned.

“Quiet, you trollop.” The officer spat. “It’s clear what happened here. His Grace and his men were protecting not only their home, but the personal business of the Crown. I’m just sorry you had to go to all this trouble, Sir.”

“I am disheartened that a man lost his life,” Punch lowered his head, “but, it could not be avoided. And, now, these women are here trying to blackmail me—a crime unto itself. How much must my household suffer?”

Robert choked, leaning on the newel post.

“You ain’t gonna suffer any more, Your Grace.” The officer shook his head. “Now, I must say, we’ll need to send an inspector from Whitehall to get your statements, but I know they’ll see this as what it is.”

“Thank you,” Mr. Punch nodded with theatrical relief.

“Now, you three.” The beadle turned to Eudora, Tom and Hortence. “What’s all this mean to you?”

“I used to work here, Sir.” Hortence replied nervously.

“She was dismissed for eavesdropping. Isn’t that so, Dr. Halifax?” Punch smiled.

“It is true.” Robert replied softly.

“Yes, Sir.” Speaight confirmed. “I’m the butler here. We’d had nothing but trouble with the girl.”

“And you dragged me here under false pretenses—sayin’ you thought you was in danger.” The beadle glowered at the women.

“You don’t know what they’ve jus’ been feedin’ you!” Eudora snorted.

“I know that we’ve had trouble with you before, Eudora Stover. I won’t say what sort. It ain’t fit talk for a gentleman’s house. But, worse, still you’re tradin’ in espionage now? And blackmail?” The officer said sharply. “I think you three better come with me.”

“I don’t think so.” Hortence shouted.

“Try and struggle and see how it goes for ya.” The beadle narrowed his eyes.

“You got nothin’ on us.” Eudora said stiffly, adjusting her shawl. “Come on. Let’s go!”

Hortence and Tom followed Eudora to the door. Miss Stover paused and looked at Mr. Punch. “This ain’t over, Mr. Molliner!”

“Yes, it is.” Mr. Punch smiled. “Very much so.”

“I’ll make sure they go, Sir.” The beadle nodded. “Good night. And, thank you for your fine cooperation. I’ll be back with an inspector in the morning. Is there any time better than another?”

“No, come at your convenience. You’re a credit to ‘the Met.’”

“Thank you, Your Grace.” The beadle blushed. With that, he escorted Tom, Eudora and Hortence out. Speaight quickly closed the door behind them.

“What have you done?” Robert hissed wildly.

“His Grace told the truth, Sir.” Charles said quickly.

“No, he did not!”

“Yes, he did.” Charles snapped. “Pardon me sayin’ it, Dr. Halfiax, but what was said here tonight was what happened. Whenever I’m asked about it, this is how I will answer. I will not change it one hair. You’d best understand that, Sir.”

“Same for me,” Gerard nodded groggily. “I’ll never vary one bit.”

“I, too,” Speaight said, “will maintain the information shared this evening with anyone from the Met who should ask.”

“I’m outnumbered.” Robert mumbled.

“You’re very loved, chum.” Punch said quickly, speaking as himself. “We did what we had to. It’s over.”

“Is it?” Robert moaned. “And when the inspector from Whitechapel arrives, what then? What if someone should ask the Prince Consort about this sensitive information that you were supposedly protecting?”

“Do you think,” Punch shook his head, “that a member of the Met is going to go to Prince Albert because some porcelain-maker was killed in Belgravia? Do you think that the Commissioner of Police of the Metropolis is going to visit the pregnant Queen and ask her about her business with the Duke of Fallbridge?”

“He might.”

“And what will Her Majesty say to Sir Richard Mayne when he does?” Punch sighed. “Will she worry that some middleclass, alleged spy lost his life in a fight with her beloved jeweler or will she be quick to honor the Duke who battled bravely for her honor?”

“You shouldn’t have risked it.” Robert said emotionally. “None of you should have.”

“Had we not done something, those women would have tried to insinuate publicly that you killed Mr. Stover. Yes, we risked something, but had we not, we would have risked losing you.”

“We couldn’t do that, Sir.” Charles said softly.

“No.” Speaight agreed.

“You heard Eudora Stover.” Robert shook his head. “It’s not over.”

“And, you heard me!” Punch said passionately. “And, I say that it is!”



Did you miss Chapters 1-48 of Mr. Punch of Belgrave Square? If so, you can read them here. Come back tomorrow for Chapter 50.