Unusual Artifacts: A Horsehair Hat by Simone Mirman, 1953

Hat
Simone Mirman, 1953
The Victoria & Albert Museum

Paris-born milliner Simone Mirman began her career working with fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli in Paris before coming to London in 1947. Mirman took an unusual approach to her millinery practice, preferring to think of her hats as ‘objects d’art’ as opposed to utilitarian objects. Her business began slowly, but from her attic workshop she soon gained momentum and was able to open a couture millinery salon in London. Of her many famous clients, she was most popular with the Royal family—making unusual hats for Princess Margaret Rose from 1953 and, later, for the Queen and the Queen Mother from the 1960s onward.

This hat made for the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II in 1953 shows Simone Mirman’s sense of play and artistry. Here, we see that she’s adorned this horsehair creation with diminutive rosebuds . Made in the “coolie-style,” this hat was meant to transition from summer to chillier seasons. Creations such as this brought a great deal of attention to Mirman, and her popularity soared during the 1953 coronation year when her work was considered the utmost of chic.

Punch’s Cousin, Chapter 311

Ulrika Rittenhouse shivered and drew her body closer to Giovanni Iantosca.


“What is it, Rossa?” he cooed in her ear.

“A dream,” Ulrika murmured.

“A dream of me?”

“No.” Ulrika whispered.

“So, you dream of another?” Giovanni teased. “While you lie in my arms?”

“His name is Arthur.” Ulrika muttered. “I just had the strangest thought…or feeling—as if he walked over my grave, or I over his. I don’t know.”

“You love this Arthur?” Giovanni asked.

“No.” Ulrika sighed. “I fancied him. Nothing more. He served me well. But, then, he got greedy as men do.”

“This shocks you?”

“Not especially. I knew he was greedy, but I thought he’d…” Ulrika sat up. “I don’t know what I thought.” She shook her head.

“You should expect nothing exceptional from a man, Rossa.” Giovanni said taunted her. “With me, you know I’m greedy. Expect me to remain so.”

“You need not worry about that.” Ulrika smiled. “It’s your greed that appeals to me.”

“Together, we can combine our greed to conquer the world from the land to the blue seas.”

“I want the whole world. I don’t really wish to share it—even with you, my love.” Ulrika laughed.

“Not even a little piece of blue for me?” Giovanni feigned disappointment.

“You want a piece of the sea?” Ulrika cooed.

“As a start.” Giovanni winked.

“Wait here.” Ulrika chirped, scurrying out of the bed. “Close your yes.”

“Why should I. You’ve nothing I’ve not already seen.” Giovanni laughed.

“Close your eyes or I’ll finish what the Doctor started.” Ulrika growled.

“You are a beast.” Giovanni laughed, doing as instructed. He waited until he felt Ulrika settle into the bed next to him again.

“May I open my eyes?” Giovanni asked.

“Not yet.” Ulrika whispered. “Hold out your hand.”

Giovanni offered his palm to her and felt something cold and hard settle onto the skin of his hand. He gripped it.

“Now, open your eyes.” Ulrika murmured.

In the dim candlelight of the room, Giovanni could see flecks of brilliant blue and white glimmer in his hand as he studied the massive blue diamond which Ulrika had placed there.

“Do you like it?” Ulrika asked.

“This—this is real.” Giovanni replied with widening eyes.

“I knew you’d appreciate it.” Ulrika smiled. “I was able to fool others with a counterfeit, but not you.”

“Where did you get this?”

“It belonged to the Duke of Fallbridge.”

“So this is the famed stone?” Giovanni smiled. “The Duchess mentioned it to me. She swore it would be part of my payment, but the stone was lost. You had it all this time?”

“Not all of the time.” Ulrika grinned with pride. “But, long enough.”

“So, now it is yours?” Giovanni frowned.

“Ours.” Ulrika shook her head. “If you cooperate.”

At that very moment, Mala descended the winding staircase at the reverse of the long hall in the center of Iolanthe Evangeline’s house. She wiped her hands on the back of her shoddy dress, pausing for a moment to scratch and grunt before opening the door.

She scowled when she saw Mr. Punch and Charles on the other side.

“You come to hit me over the head again?” Mala groaned at Punch.

“If need be,” Punch shrugged. “Listen, ugly girl, I didn’t mean to hit you the last time, but you snuck up on me, and I’ll hit you again if you’re gonna be mean to me.”

“What you want, crazy man?” Mala growled.

“Come on, you know why I’m here.” Punch sighed. “I come for Miss Allen.”

“What makes you think Miss Allen is here?” Mala mumbled.

“Ain’t she?” Punch smiled.

Mala—not being very bright nor creative—could think of nothing more to say.

“So, can I see her?” Punch tilted his head to one side.

“She’s upstairs with her maid.” Mala shrugged. “Don’t want to see no one.”

“Her maid?” Charles asked.

“That’s it.” Mala nodded.

“Where’d she get a maid?” Charles asked.

“Miss Iolanthe fetched her one. Some old woman that Miss Barbara wanted special.” Mala barked.

“Do all of the ‘ladies’ here get maids?” Punch asked.

“No.” Mala shrugged. “But, I aon’t complainin’. I needs the help. And even if she is old, this Agnes should be somethin’ of a help to me.”

“Agnes?” Punch choked.

“That’s it.” Mala nodded. “Miss Iolanthe fetched her from Mr. Cage’s house not an half an hour ago.”

“Nanny,” Punch whispered under his breath.



Did you miss Chapters 1-310? If so, you can read them here.

Card of the Day: HRH The Duchess of York (The Queen Mother)

The sixth card of the 1935 Silver Jubilee series by Godfrey & Phillips depicts the Duchess of York (later Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother). The Duchess is shown in a charming ensemble of a blue gown and diamond tiara which she is wearing in the style of the mid-1930’s—over her forehead as opposed to high on the crown of her head.

In 1923 the former Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon married Prince Albert, Duke of York—second son of King George V and Queen Mary. Elizabeth had been courted by Prince Albert for several years, continually refusing to marry him because she doubted she would enjoy the rigors of Royal life. However, love won out, much to the relief of Queen Mary who had stated that “Bertie” would never really be happy until Elizabeth consented to marry him. Though of noble birth, (her father was a Peer) Lady Elizabeth was not “Royal,” and her marriage to the Prince showed that, in allowing the heir presumptive to marry a legal commoner, the Crown was showing signs of modernization.

The Duke and Duchess of York on their honeymoon.
The Royal Collection

At the time of their marriage, King George V was alive and mostly well and everyone believed that the heir apparent—Edward, the Prince of Wales—would one day ascend the throne. Had Lady Elizabeth known that he brother-in-law would abdicate thirteen years later upon the death of her father-in-law and that her new husband would become King, she might have thought twice about the marriage. However, she threw herself into the unexpected task of being the Queen Consort and looked to her mother-in-law, Queen Mary, for guidance.

Mary adored her daughter-in-law and enjoyed their many visits together to museums, shops and antique stores. They two often dined together, and Mary wrote uncharacteristically affectionate notes to her new daughter. Elizabeth’s performance as Queen Consort was one of the things which softened Mary’s infinite disappointment following the abdication of her eldest son and his shocking marriage to Wallis Simpson (a fact with which Mary was never fully reconciled).

Throughout her long life, the Queen Mother (as she was known after the passing of her husband, King George VI) was one of the most beloved of the Royal Family—forever dedicated to her nation and her family until her death in March, 2002 at 101 years of age.

Object of the Day, Museum Edition: A Souvenir of the Coronation of King George VI, 1937

Mug
Staffordshire, England
Meakin & Co., 1937
Designer: Dame Laura Knight, O.B.E.
The Victoria & Albert Museum

Isn’t this attractive? Here, from the collection of the Victoria & Albert Museum, we see a souvenir of the rather unexpected 1937 coronation of King George VI and Queen Elizabeth (the Queen Mother). Made in Staffordshire, this mug by J. & G. Meakin, the transfer-printed portraits of Their Majesties are certainly more “moderne” than most I’ve seen. They’re very 1937 in design.

The handle of this bone china mug has been molded into the shape of the head of a heraldic beast. Another interesting touch is that instead of the traditional roses and thistles that are usually nestled behind pictures of the Royals and their coat of arms, we have a wild background of circus animals amidst the symbols of the Crown. This is especially interesting given the chaotic circumstances which led to his coronation—namely that pesky abdication crisis.

This atypical, stylized design is the work of Dame Laura Knight, O.B.E. who has signed the reverse.

Mastery of Design: An Intaglio of Mars, Seventeenth Century

Ingalio of Mars
Seventeenth Century
Agate, Diamonds, Silver Gilt, Pearls, Emeralds
The Royal Collection

First recorded in the Royal Collection—when found amongst a drawer-full of jewels at Windsor Castle—this intaglio of gray agate set in a lacey mount of silver-gilt, rose-cut diamonds, pearls and emeralds dates to the Seventeenth Century.

The intaglio shows a head of a bearded warrior (probably Mars)—depicted in profile to the left. He wears a necklace and a helmet which is adorned with a horse-drawn chariot. Another figure is also depicted—to the right of the profile. There, we see a small, full-length female figure who holds aloft a flowing piece of drapery.

Humanitarian of the Week: Bebe Neuwirth

Known to most as Lilith Sternin-Crane on both the long-running U.S. sitcoms Cheers and Frasier, Bebe Neuwirth’s career is better characterized by her impressive wealth of stage work. Neuwirth, now considered one of Broadway’s greatest lights, has had starring turns in Sweet Charity, Damn Yankees, Chicago and The Addams Family among many others. In addition to this, she’s been a staple of both television and film.

Yet, despite her vast success as an entertainer, as a young woman, Neuwirth toyed with the idea of becoming a veterinarian. This brilliant singer, dancer and actress has another great passion—animals. Neuwirth had dedicated her personal life to ensuring that animals have safe and healthy homes. Miss Neuwirth has donated her time and talent to a host of organizations who work provide loving families to stray animals in need.

For her vast talent and her affection for our four-footed friends, Bebe Neuwirth is our “Humanitarian of the Week.”

Gifts of Grandeur: A Silver and Garnet Comb, 1900

Comb
Henry Wilson, 1900
English
Silver and garnets.
The Victoria & Albert Museum

Made in London by Henry Wilson in 1900, this comb/hair ornament of silver is set with garnets. The head of the comb is adorned with a pierced medallion of a crab, the symbol of the zodialogical sign Cancer which had been set with cabochon garnets.

As a jewelry designer, Henry Wilson's work is known for its rich and dramatic color combinations and the visual contrasts that he created with precious stones and enamel. He was also celebrated for the sculptural qualities of his designs. Wilson’s work is among the most popular of the Arts and Crafts jewelry designers. Originally, Wilson trained as an architect. Suring his studies, he became interested in metal-work in the early 1890s. Later, Wilson went on to teach at the Royal College of Art.