Mastery of Design: The Cartier Link Necklace, 1954-5

Link Necklace
Cartier, London, 1954-55
The Victoria & Albert Museum

For a period after the Second World War, gemstones were prohibitively expensive and difficult to find through honest trade. As a consequence, gold jewelry became fashionable and was in great demand throughout European and American high society.

While such gold pieces appeared to be quite thick and heavy, they were often hollow, augmented by wire internally. However, the often showcased elaborate and playful designs like this exceptional necklace made by London Cartier between 1954 and 1955. 

The necklace of gold is designed in flexible links in fashionable brickwork pattern.

Painting of the Day: A Leaf from a Calendar, 1510-60

Leaf from a Calendar or Book of Hours
1510-60
Simon Bening
This and all related images from:
The Victoria & Albert Museum

Dating between 1510 and 1560, this double-sided leaf is thought to be from the calendar of a book of hours.  The sides appear to illustrate, on one side, the month of April, and, on the other, side the month of May.

April depicts music-makers by a canal while in the fields beyond them a cow is being milked as sheep are taken out to graze and stork makes its nest on a chimney pot.

Meanwhile, May shows a scene of typical May Day merrymaking, including a boat trip with musicians, a floral procession and joyful dancing in a town square.

This is the work of Simon Bening, from Bruges, who was one of the most celebrated illuminators of his time. He worked mainly in Bruges. His works often look more contemporary than they really are and he was responsible for many an illuminated manuscript like this one. 

In the late medieval period, Books of Hours, like the one from which this page was taken, were a type of prayer book meant for private use by the worshipful.  These portable books consisted of psalms and devotions for the eight canonical hours of the day.

History's Runway: The Stiebel Taffeta Gown , 1955

Evening Dress
Victor Stiebel, 1955
This and all related images from:
The Victoria & Albert Museum

The London Social Calendar dictated fashion for centuries—so much so that later periodicals such as British Vogue and Harper's Bazaar showcased certain London designers’ collections with the social calendar in mind. Events such as the Royal Garden Party, Goodwood, Wimbledon, Ascot and Cowes, coming-out dances and summer balls dictated who wore what and when.

This dress of striped turquoise and white silk taffeta, overlaid with matching blue, wild silk organza was said to have been worn by Lady Diana Herbert for a 1955 ball at Wilton House and reflects the designer Victor Stiebel's (1907-76) interest updated historical styles of dress.

The celestial gown  is strapless with a full-length flaring skirt that is trimmed from knee to hem with a deep flounce. The blue organza is draped over both the bodice and the skirt and caught up at the center back to suggest a bustle.

Precious Time: The Jacob Marquart Table Clock, 1567

Table Clock
Jacob Marquart
1567
Germany
The Victoria & Albert Museum

This unusual clock was made in 1567 by Jacob Marquart, one of a famous family of clockmakers in Augsburg, in southern Germany. The intricately decorated casing and finely engraved dials demonstrate that this clock was not simply a functional household item, but was commissioned or purchased to be a showpiece and family treasure.

Shallow, horizontal clocks resting on small feet, like this one, were made in Europe beginning around the Fifteenth Century and until the Eighteenth Century.  They were made in a host of different shapes including square, hexagonal, octagonal and drum-shaped.

Clocks such as these were so important to the Augsburg clockmakers’ art that the creation of a table clock was one of the tests given to an apprentice who was given eight months to make as elaborate a clock as possible.  Many South German examples incorporated astronomical, astrological and calendar information in their dials.

This example features an alarm.  It consists of a square brass case on four bun feet, whose underside is set with sundials and calendars. The brass clock dial boasts an applied copper chapter ring. The flat iron sides are lightly engraved.

Mr. Punch of Belgrave Square, Chapter 37

Chapter 37:

In Ruins

Charles and Gamilla chuckled as they entered the servants’ hall of No. 65 from the area.  Even before the door was entirely opened, they could hear Mrs. Pepper snapping at Jenny.

“No, ya daft l’il twig, you’re doin’ it wrong!  Do ya want the masters to eat flat, tough bread?  No, ya want it to rise.  You knead it like this!  How many times have I told ya this?  I’ve got to do it all me-self.”

“But, Mrs. Pepper,” Jenny sniffed. 

“Go on, then!  Go start chopping up them onions for the stuffin’, then.”

Mrs. Pepper spotted Charles and Gamilla, who was holding Colin, through the pass-through from her kitchen.

“Oy!  Back already, you two?  I thought you’d be gone for hours.”

“No, Mrs. Pepper,” Charles smiled.  “We did all we needed.”

“Did the masters enjoy the puppet show, then?”

“His Grace most of all.”

“Ain’t it sweet that such a great man wants to go out amongst the people and see somethin’ as common as a puppet show?  And, ain’t it somethin’ that he’s such a fine and gentle man that he enjoys it so—just like a sweet babe?  Speakin’ of babes, that one looks like he’s ready for his nap, then.”  Mrs. Pepper chattered.

“Sure does,” Gamilla chuckled.  “I’ll bring him up.”

“You do that, dear.” Mrs. Pepper said.  “I’ll tell Mr. Speaight you’re back and in the nursery.  Vi already did the drawing room, the library, the morning room and the doctor’s study.  Gerard set about tidyin’ the masters’ rooms.  So, you can stay up there with the little master ‘til Miss Ellen comes back.”

“Thank you, Mrs. Pepper.” Gamilla nodded.  “How’s Gerard.”

“Oh, poorly, I’m sure.  Looked as white as a sheet.  Sent him back to your room, Charlie.  Let’s let him rest ‘til the masters return.”

“Do you think it’s influenza, Mrs. Pepper?”  Charles asked.

“I think it’s the champagne from the master’s party.” Mrs. Pepper chuckled.

“But, Gerry didn’t have none.” Gamilla shook her head.

“Oh—maybe that’s what he says, but ain’t no bloke I know what’s gonna turn his nose up at the master’s best wine.”  She laughed.

“Yes, Mrs. Pepper.” Gamilla nodded slowly.

“Now, you go on up, dear.” Mrs. Pepper smiled.  “I’ll have Vi bring nursery tea for ya when it’s time.”

“Thank you.”

“Nothin’, my dear.  Ain’t nothin’.”  Mrs. Pepper shrugged.

“I’ll see ya, Gamilla.” Charles waved with his good hand.

“Where’s Mr. Speaight?” Charles asked Mrs. Pepper.

“Gone out to the mews.”  Mrs. Pepper shook her head.

“Whatever for?” Charles chuckled.

“Goin’ through the stable books while Hutchinson’s out, I dare say.”

“Ah.”

“Charlie…what can I get ya, then?” Mrs. Pepper winked.  She had a special affection for Charles.  She’d once told him that he reminded her of her own brother. “I got some o’ them nice sausages from breakfast left.  Oh, and I got a bit of good tongue in the larder.  Saved it just for you.”

“I wouldn’t mind some of that,” Charles smiled.  “And, a bit of your nice chutney if there’s any.”

“For you there is.” Mrs. Pepper winked.  She turned around and shouted.  “Jenny!  Girl, bring me that tongue and the chutney.”

“Mrs. Pepper, I’m doin’ the onions like you said.”  Jenny moaned.

“And you shall return to them after you bring me the tongue and the chutney!” Mrs. Pepper snapped.  Turning abruptly again, she smiled sweetly at Charles, “Now, you just sit yourself down, my dear.  House is in good order and with the masters gone, we don’t have much to do today.  Silver’s all polished and all.”

“Right, Mrs. Pepper.”

After a few minutes, Charles settled onto a stool at Mrs. Pepper’s table and enjoyed the small snack she made for him.  She watched him eat—proudly, taking joy in his every bite.  She was so focused on Charles, in fact, that neither of them heard Speaight entered from the rear door.

“Hullo?” Mr. Speaight called out.  Finally, he spotted Mrs. Pepper and Charles in the kitchen.

“Have a look at the books, did ya, Mr. Speaight?”  Mrs. Pepper asked.

“Aye, I did.” Speaight nodded. 

“In ruins, I expect?”  Charles asked.

“No, surprisingly not, Charles.” Speaight sighed.

“Then, what’s weighin’ on ya, Morris?” Mrs. Pepper asked.  “Charles, if you’ll pardon me usin’ Mr. Speaight’s given name.”

“That’s fine, Mrs. Pepper.” Charles grinned.

“It’s Tom, Mrs. Pepper.” Mr. Speaight shrugged.

“What’s the little rotter done now?”  Mrs. Pepper frowned.

“That’s just it.”  Speaight grumbled.  “I don’t know.  I can’t find ‘im.  Looked all over.  He’s taken off again.”

“You really should sack him, Mr. Speaight.”  Mrs. Pepper clucked her tongue.

“I should.” Mr. Speaight nodded.

“What good’s a page, then, if he ain’t ‘bout when ya need him?”  Mrs. Pepper muttered.

“Mr. Speaight, where’d he come from?  He was already here when Gerry and I arrived with the masters.  I understand that the butler from Fallbridge Hall did a lot of the initial hiring, but I know that when the Duke hired you, you brought on your own people—like Vi and Hutchinson.  What about Tom?”

“Tom and Hortence were here.” Speaight sighed.  “They, along with Ethel and Jenny, were hired by Mr. Jackson.  It seems Tom is the son of a friend of Hortence’s.  That should have been enough of a clue.  That girl was trouble from the start.  Glad to be rid of her.  I’m not surprised that Tom’s a…”

“Now, now.” Mrs. Pepper interrupted.  “Don’t say her name.  Knock wood to keep the bad away.  Go on!”

Charles and Speaight exchanged glances and both knocked something wooden—Speaight the frame of the pass-through and Charles, the table.

“That’ll do.” Mrs. Pepper nodded in satisfaction.

“Thanks for the treat, Mrs. Pepper.” Charles rose from the table.

“Oh, come on, Charlie.  Have another cup of tea.” 

“No, thank you.  Maybe Mr. Speaight would like one.  I’ve got some mending of the Duke’s in my room.  I’d best go fetch it, and lay out my night livery.”

“Off you go, then, Charles.” Speaight nodded.  “Good work.  How’s the wrist, by the way?”

“Oh, it’s better every day, Sir.” Charles grinned.

“Good boy.” Speaight smiled.

As Charles climbed the stairs, he could hear Mrs. Pepper and Speaight continue to complain about Tom.  Something about Tom had always struck Charles as peculiar.  He was so sullen and quiet—too much so for a young boy.

Finally reaching the attics, Charles tapped gently on the door of the small room he shared with Gerard.  Hearing no response, Charles entered and found Gerard sprawled out on the bed, asleep.

“Poor fella.” Charles sighed. 

Charles wandered over the bureau the two men shared and retrieved the mending he wished to finish.  He suddenly realized that, with his broken wrist, he’d not be able to finish it.  He chuckled at his own lack of thought and wondered if maybe Violet would be able to help him that evening.  He looked around for something else to do until the Duke came home and noticed, on the corner of the bureau, a bottle had been tucked behind a stack of old newspapers.

Charles grabbed the bottle and looked at it.  As he feared, it was the medicine bottle that he’d asked Gerard to return to the doctor.  And, worse still, it was considerably emptier than when he’d given it to his comrade.

“Oh, Gerry.” Charles sighed.  “What’ve ya done?”

Did you miss Chapters 1-36 of Mr. Punch of Belgrave Square?  If so, you can read them here.  Come back tomorrow for Chapter 38. 

Unusual Artifacts: A Silver and Ivory Perpetual Calendar, 1700

Perpetual Calendar
Germany, c. 1700
The Victoria & Albert Museum

While seemingly inconvenient these days, in the Eighteenth Century, the notion of a perpetual calendar—in short, one that could manipulated to be used for a succession of years—was a convenient and economical decision.  Such calendars were made from valuable materials and were often given as gifts.  Here’s a great example made in Germany around 1700.

In this example, the calendar is engraved on the silver covers of this notebook. Inside the covers are bound three ivory tablets which would have been covered with thin layers of wax which could be inscribed with a pointed stylus and, then, smoothed out and used again. 

Consider it an Eighteenth Century iPad.

Object of the Day: A Trade Card for Hoyt's German Cologne, 1890

Nestled amongst the blooms in a bouquet of tea roses, lilies of the valley and lavender are twelve small panels each marking the months of the year of 1890.  This trade card is entitled:

LADIES PERFUMED CALENDAR 1890

I can only assume that it was sprayed with scent—an aroma long-ago replaced with the aromas of must and a faint whiff of ancient cigarette smoke.

On the bottom of the card, in pink, it reads:

Compliments of

E.W. Hoyt & Co.

       Lowell, Mass.

Proprietors of

Hoyt’s German Cologne

And RUBIFOAM

Let’s take a look at the reverse.

In presenting our PERFUMED CALENDAR for 1890, we do so with the assurance that it will not only be found useful and worthy of preservation, but a constant reminder throughout the year that

HOYT’S GERMAN COLOGNE

Is the most

Fragrant and Lasting of all Perfumes.

     This perfection of colognes has been described as the “Imprisoned Breath of Blossoms,” a pleasing compliment to the combination of odors that serve this exquisite perfume.  The most fragrant and costly extracts from flowers are used in its manufacture, making it a delightful, refreshing, and agreeable perfume, unrivaled for the toilet, complexion, and the bath.  Adds comfort to the invalid.  A refined and pleasing odor for the handkerchief.

     In purchasing, care should be taken to obtain the genuine.  BEWARE of worthless substitutes offered for greater profit.  Three  sizes of HOYT’S GERMAN COLOGNE are sold:

Trial Size, 25 Cents; Medium Size, 50 cents; Large Bottles, $1.00.

------

RUBIFOAM for the TEETH. 

Deliciously Flavored.  A Perfect Liquid Dentifrice.

It’s use insures white teeth, sweet breath, healthy gums,

BEAUTIFULLY PUT UP.  Price, 25 Cents. 

------

HOYT’S GERMAN COLOGNE and RUBIFOAM are sold by

All druggists and Dealers in Toilet Articles.

E.W. HOYT & CO., Lowell, Mass., U.S.A.,

Sole Manufacturers

 ------

FOR SALE BY

T.S. Baker – Norwich, N.Y.

DEALER IN

Dry Goods, Groceries, Drugs, Medicines, Boots

and Shoes, hardware, Crockery, etc.