Mastery of Design: A Jeweled Handbag by Asprey, London

Handbag
Circa 1920
Silk, Semi-Precious Stones
Asprey, London
The Victoria & Albert Museum

Asprey, makers of luxury goods and jewels since 1781, was a longtime supplier of gorgeous items to the Royal Family and the upper-classes, having been granted their first Royal Warrant by Queen Victoria in 1862 and enjoying a relationship with the Crown well into the reign of Queen Elizabeth II.


Though this handbag does not contain an Asprey label, it is most assuredly from their luxurious emporium, circa 1920. A symphony of embroidered silk with metal and semi-precious stone fittings, this clutch would have been the perfect finishing touch to a smart lady’s outfit.

The majority of the clutch is made a portion of imported Chinese fabric, most likely from a pre-existing silk garment which has been embroidered on a yellow silk ground with peacocks, flowers and butterflies, rimmed in gold and trimmed with a Chinese woven ribbon of a lovely blue. The fabric hangs from a metal frame surmounted by a clasp made from one large pink stone and two smaller green ones. Lined on the inside with golden satin, the interior of the handbag conceals two hidden pockets.

Masterpiece of the Week: A Magnificent Watch by Markwick and Markham, 1750-75

Clock-Watch
Markwick and Markham
1750-1775
The Victoria & Albert Museum

From the Eighteenth-Century makers of luxury “clock-watches,” Markwick & Markham, we see this glorious specimen with quarter-repeating movement, verge escapement and and enamel dial. It features gilt-metal cases, with an embossed outer case, adorned with chased gold and decorated with gold piqué work on leather

Signed Markwick-Markham, London, it is is numbered 14103. James Markwick and Robert Markham created elegant clocks and watches for the Turkish market, as well as formed a partnership under their joint names to operate a London shop-front from about 1725 to 1805.

The specific term, “Clock-Watch” refers to the oversized watches which were in vogue at the time. Not only could they be carried on a person, but they could be displayed in a room on a hook (usually from a necessaire) and employed as a clock while traveling. This model, made for export, is fitted with Turkish gradations and strikes the hours and quarters on a silver bell. This beautiful watch uses three cases: a gilt-metal case which is pierced and engraved with foliage, another outer case which is similarly decorated, and an extra outer case which is pierced in openwork with Rococo scrolls and foliage and with panels of shagreen (leather of rough, un-tanned skin) decorated with piqué in gold.

Sunday Morning Special: Windsor Castle in the Nineteenth Century



The Royal Collection



This attractive video shows a slideshow if images of Windsor Castle throughout the Nineteenth Century.  Enjoy!

Reminder: "Punch's Cousin" Will Return on Monday

Last week, Punch’s Cousin offered up some surprises as Adrienne and Mama Routhe found the apartment invaded by three “men.” As it turned out, one of the men was actually a woman—Nellie—who still harbored a grudge against Adrienne. Nellie and her companions overpowered Adrienne and Mama Routhe and kidnapped Mr. Punch’s nephew.


Later, we found out the Nellie was really working for Marie Laveau who had plans for the child. Meanwhile, Ulrika and Iolanthe tried desperately to stop Robert and Marjani from getting to Adrienne, but failed in their attempts. When Iolanthe received a message from Marie Laveau, she dragged Urlika through the Quarter to find something shocking.

Mr. Punch’s encounter with Barbara Allen and Arthur ended badly when Punch was told that Arthur wasn’t the child’s father. Disgusted, Punch washed his hands of Barbara and ordered her to leave his house. Punch then hurried off to find his “chums,” reuniting with them in the mist and heading for the Routhes’ apartment.

There, Punch was shocked to find that the child was missing and sank into a deep depression. Punch was soon haunted by the voice of Mr. Scaramouche who urged him to give into his anger.

This week, we’ll see how Mr. Punch deals with this loss. Will he continue to fight for the child or will he give up in defeat? Furthermore, what is Marie’s game and how does Iolanthe figure into it? As Barbara Allen struggles with the reality that she’s alone in the world, will she find Charles or will she go off on a psychotic tear that would make Iolanthe envious?

It promises to be an exciting week as Punch’s Cousin continues on Monday.

Card of the Day: Review of the Fleet at Spithead

Following the Great War, the Crown tried to return to business as usual by investing their time into the typical duties of the monarchy. As part of this, King George V returned to his role as Reviewer of the Royal Navy.


The twenty-first card in the 1935 commemorative series by Wills’s Cigarette Company depicts this event.

The reverse of the card reads:

REVIEW OF THE FLEET AT SPITHEAD


Until the Atlantic and Reserve Fleets gathered at Spithead on July 26th, 1924, there had not been a Royal Naval Review since the eve of the Great War. The King and the Prince of Wales on the bridge of the “Victoria and Albert” saw fewer capital ships than in 1914, but the 196 war vessels assembled included a far more varied collection of supporting craft. Dressed over-all with fluttering flags and pendants, the heavy ships—most of which has fought at Jutland—greeted the Sovereign with a salute of twenty-one guns, the crews vigorously cheering as the Royal Yacht passed. The Duke of Kent (then Prince George) was present as a sub-lieutenant in the destroyer, “Ursula.”

Object of the Day, Museum Edition: King Edward VII’s Stickpin

Stickpin
Russian-made
1901
Gold, enamel, brilliant-cut diamonds
The Royal Collection

Over the past year, we’ve taken a look at my collection of antique stickpins, but I’m not the only person who has collected them. Queen Mary also put together a collection of stickpins owned by British monarchs.


For example, here’s a beautiful pin which had belonged to King Edward VII—Mary’s father-in-law. This masterpiece of gold, enamel and brilliant diamonds was made for the King by Eduard Schramm in 1901. It is adorned with his crowned cipher in diamonds.

This pin was a favorite of the King’s. After his death, Mary of Teck made sure that his personal jewelry was preserved as part of the Royal Collection.

Coming this Week at "Stalking the Belle Époque"

This week is all about “Finishing Touches”—those wonderful accessories that added elevate an outfit or a room to an all new level of style. We’ll be looking at the finest paintings, liveliest sculptures, and items of historical home décor which defined the style of their eras. We’ll also visit some of the jewels, fans and fashions which gave both men and women that extra sparkle.


As part of this, we’ll travel to Liverpool to view a new exhibition at the Lady Lever Art Gallery which chronicles fashion accessories from the Victorian to Art Deco periods. And, then, we’ll examine the lives of some of the style-setters that have changed the fashions of the world.

It’s going to be a beautiful week and I look forward to sharing it all with you.