Mastery of Design: The Coral Tiara, 1860-1870

Tiara
Coral and Gilt Metal
Philips Brothers, London
1860-1870
This and all related images courtesy of
The Victoria & Albert Museum

During a period when most tiaras glittered with diamonds (or paste), some ladies wanted to stand out from the crowd by adorning their elaborate hairstyles with something a little different. While, in my opinion, nothing’s better than a nice lot of diamonds, this coral tiara has a great deal of appeal of its own, and, is really very handsome.

Coral branches and beads have been fitted to a gilt metal frame, giving an immediate look of both the natural and the ornate. Still in its original leather case, this coral tiara has its original comes from “PHILLIPS. 23, COCKSPVR STREET LONDON,” as embroidered into the silk lining.

Phillips Brothers, largely managed by one Robert Phillips, was the leading supplier of coral objects in London, in addition to their status as celebrated and jewelers. So influential in the world of coral exporting, they once advertised in that Phillips Brothers was in possession of “the most complete collection of fine coral work in the world.” They weren’t alone in that assessment. Robert Phillips received the order of the Crown of Italy for his support of the coral industry in Naples.