Friday, July 1, 2011

Mastery of Design: The Turquoise Snake Necklace, 1830-40

Necklace
1830-1840
Britain
The Victoria & Albert Museum
This strangely beautiful necklace fits right into the symbolism of the era both in design and media. Created around the same time as the lovely turquoise and diamond necklace that I shared with you last week, this piece consists of articulated silver and gold, pavé-set with turquoises, rubies, pearls and brilliant-cut diamonds.


The mid-Nineteenth Century was a good time for turquoise which found itself frequently employed in significant pieces of jewelry for its brilliant blue color which put one in mind of forget-me-nots—floral symbols of true love . Furthermore, the stone was believed to strengthen the bond between husband and wife and to protect the wearer from harm. This caused the stone to be used often as a wedding gift, a souvenir for bride’s maids (as Queen Victoria did) and as a gift to children from their parents.

The reverse, which is kind of creepy-looking.
The snake theme has also been an enduring one. A figure of a snake swallowing its tail fits nicely with the implied meaning of the turquoise. An ancient symbol, known as the ouroboros, it meant “love eternal” and was associated both with marriage and mourning jewelry. Queen Victoria also re-popularized the theme with two of her private pieces of jewelry: her engagement ring from Prince Albert (in the shape of snake) and a figural serpent bracelet which she wore in 1837 when attending her first council meeting.

This particular necklace dates between 1830 and 1840 and has the look of an English-made piece of jewelry.



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