Mastery of Design: The Jeweled Ivory Cup of King George IV

Ivory, Silver Gilt and Jeweled Cup
Belonged to King George IV
Crown Copyright
The Royal Collection
Image Courtesy of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II

Here’s one of the stars of The Royal Collection. This jeweled ivory cup is known by the curators of the collection as “The Brain,” since…well, it looks a bit like a brain. This was one of the many treasure collected by the oddly opulent King George IV whose taste for just about everything drained the Royal coffers.

Made in South Germany (or, some say, Austria), when the ceremonial cup was first purchased by George IV, it was a work of carved ivory mounted in gilt silver. As grand as it was, it wasn’t special enough for Georgie who had the emeralds, rubies and turquoises added just to make it a little shinier.

The carved, lobed ivory cup and cover is surmounted by a finial carved with a figure of Diana Goddess of the Hunt. She’s holding a spear and has her trusty hunting hound beside her. Sleeping hunters and animals (hares, hounds and boars) surround her and the reeded silver band.

The applied ivy leaves were mounted with the rubies, emeralds and turquoises which reflect the carved, high relief scenes around the sides of the cup. The bowl is supported on a stem carved as Hercules on a domed rocky base—surrounded by a silver-gilt border and similar rim of jeweled ivy leaves.

When the cup first arrived in England—long before being purchased by George IV (it changed hands several times before George got a hold of it), its appearance was so astounding that it was mentioned in the “Morning Post and Daily Advertiser” which noted:

RECENTLY brought from Vienna, and added to the Museum, an inconceivably beautiful effort of art.... consisting of a cup or vessel carved in ivory; the figure of Hercules dressed in the skin of the Nemean lion forms the handle or stem.

History's Runway: The "Elvis" Dress, 1989

"The Elvis Dress"
Catherine Walker, 1989
This and all related images from:
The Victoria & Albert Museum

When I picture Diana, Prince of Wales, it is this gown which she’s wearing. Just one of the many iconic gowns worn by the late Princess, for some reason, this one always sticks in my memory. Known as “The Elvis Dress” (a nickname given to the ensemble by the princess herself because of the similarity of the high white collar of the jacket to those on the jumpsuits worn by Mr. Presley at his most rotund), this dress and matching bolero speak volumes of the stream-lined style favored by the Princess of Wales in the late 1980s.

Well aware of her status as a fashion icon and style-setter, the Princess of Wales was always careful to don only the most flattering and fashionable garments when out for an elegant and formal evening. By the late 1980s, Princess Diana had pushed aside the fuller-cuts, crinolines and flowing chiffons of her earlier days in favor of bolder textures and sleek, tailored gowns. I think this gown is the epitome of that trend. 

The strapless gown of white silk is encrusted with pearls and sequins. It’s given a sense of drama by the tall collar of the matching bolero. It’s the work of Catherine Walker, a favorite
couturière of the Princess of Wales. Diana’s association with Walker began during her pregnancy with Prince William of Wales in 1981. Walker continued to design for the Princess until Diana’s death in 1997.

The princess wore the ensemble to the British Fashion Awards in October 1989, on an official visit to Hong Kong, and, later for an official portrait. The gown had actually been commissioned for the official visit to Hong Kong. Walker envisioned a sheath of pearls for the occasion. Tens of thousands of pearls—long a symbol of the “orient”--were embroidered onto the dress and jacket.

Walker would recall in 2012: “Whenever I saw the Princess in this dress, I could not help but feel that it would not be possible for anyone else ever to wear this dress and bolero. She shone in the dress and the dress shone around her in a shimmering column of glistening pearls.”

It was one of the 79 dresses which the Princess of Wales sold in a charity auction in 1997. The auction, held by Christie’s, raised over three million pounds for AIDS and cancer research. A commemorative doll of the princess shows her in this dress.

History's Runway: The Jester Glasses, 1954

The Jester Glasses
Oliver Goldsmith Co., 1955
The Victoria & Albert Museum

Philip Oliver Goldsmith, a salesman for a small optical concern, founded his own eyewear firm in London in 1926.  In 1935, his son Charles Oliver Goldsmith joined the family firm with the with the goal of making glasses into fashion item instead of an ugly necessity.

The firm became known for their attention-grabbing designs which attracted celebrity endorsement for their products. Famous clients included Lord Snowdon, the actress Diana Dors, Princess Grace of Monaco and Diana, Princess of Wales.

This pair from 1954 shows Charles Oliver Goldsmith's flair for design and his desire to offer an unusual alternative to the practical eyewear that was available at the time. With a whimsical, exaggerated cat-eye shape, this design was whimsically entitled “The Jester Glasses” and though abstract, they were still quite wearable.  

The Plastic sunglasses with exaggerated scalloped edges were hand-cut with a blue veneer laminated onto the surface.

History's Runway: The "Elvis" Dress, 1989

"The Elvis Dress"
Catherine Walker, 1989
This and all related images from:
The Victoria & Albert Museum

When I picture Diana, Prince of Wales, it is this gown which she’s wearing. Just one of the many iconic gowns worn by the late Princess, for some reason, this one always sticks in my memory. Known as “The Elvis Dress” (a nickname given to the ensemble by the princess herself because of the similarity of the high white collar of the jacket to those on the jumpsuits worn by Mr. Presley at his most rotund), this dress and matching bolero speak volumes of the stream-lined style favored by the Princess of Wales in the late 1980s.

Well aware of her status as a fashion icon and style-setter, the Princess of Wales was always careful to don only the most flattering and fashionable garments when out for an elegant and formal evening. By the late 1980s, Princess Diana had pushed aside the fuller-cuts, crinolines and flowing chiffons of her earlier days in favor of bolder textures and sleek, tailored gowns. I think this gown is the epitome of that trend. 

The strapless gown of white silk is encrusted with pearls and sequins. It’s given a sense of drama by the tall collar of the matching bolero. It’s the work of Catherine Walker, a favorite
couturière of the Princess of Wales. Diana’s association with Walker began during her pregnancy with Prince William of Wales in 1981. Walker continued to design for the Princess until Diana’s death in 1997.

The princess wore the ensemble to the British Fashion Awards in October 1989, on an official visit to Hong Kong, and, later for an official portrait. The gown had actually been commissioned for the official visit to Hong Kong. Walker envisioned a sheath of pearls for the occasion. Tens of thousands of pearls—long a symbol of the “orient”--were embroidered onto the dress and jacket.

Walker would recall in 2012: “Whenever I saw the Princess in this dress, I could not help but feel that it would not be possible for anyone else ever to wear this dress and bolero. She shone in the dress and the dress shone around her in a shimmering column of glistening pearls.”

It was one of the 79 dresses which the Princess of Wales sold in a charity auction in 1997. The auction, held by Christie’s, raised over three million pounds for AIDS and cancer research. A commemorative doll of the princess shows her in this dress.

Mastery of Design: The Jeweled Ivory Cup of King George IV

Ivory, Silver Gilt and Jeweled Cup
Belonged to King George IV
Crown Copyright
The Royal Collection
Image Courtesy of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II

Here’s one of the stars of The Royal Collection. This jeweled ivory cup is known by the curators of the collection as “The Brain,” since…well, it looks a bit like a brain. This was one of the many treasure collected by the oddly opulent King George IV whose taste for just about everything drained the Royal coffers.

Made in South Germany (or, some say, Austria), when the ceremonial cup was first purchased by George IV, it was a work of carved ivory mounted in gilt silver. As grand as it was, it wasn’t special enough for Georgie who had the emeralds, rubies and turquoises added just to make it a little shinier.

The carved, lobed ivory cup and cover is surmounted by a finial carved with a figure of Diana Goddess of the Hunt. She’s holding a spear and has her trusty hunting hound beside her. Sleeping hunters and animals (hares, hounds and boars) surround her and the reeded silver band.

The applied ivy leaves were mounted with the rubies, emeralds and turquoises which reflect the carved, high relief scenes around the sides of the cup. The bowl is supported on a stem carved as Hercules on a domed rocky base—surrounded by a silver-gilt border and similar rim of jeweled ivy leaves.

When the cup first arrived in England—long before being purchased by George IV (it changed hands several times before George got a hold of it), its appearance was so astounding that it was mentioned in the “Morning Post and Daily Advertiser” which noted:

RECENTLY brought from Vienna, and added to the Museum, an inconceivably beautiful effort of art.... consisting of a cup or vessel carved in ivory; the figure of Hercules dressed in the skin of the Nemean lion forms the handle or stem.

Object of the Day: Her Majesty the Queen, a Book for Children, c. 1983

I recently found this attractive little book in an antique shop. To begin with, this book, like many British books printed in the Twentieth Century or before does not have a date of publication with the copyright information. I can deduce that it was printed after 1983 since it contains images of Princess Diana holding an infant Prince William.

This miniature book was printed for children by Ladybird Books, Ltd. Of Loughborough, Leicestershire, England. Small in size with large type, it is clearly intended for readers about age 8-10. The text chronicles the life of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II and is filled with many, color images of Her Majesty and the Royal Family. 

The book begins with a touching quotation from Jim Corbett who had accompanied then-Princess Elizabeth and Prince Philip on a trip to Africa in 1952. The princess had embarked on the journey knowing that her father, King George VI, was ill. His Majesty insisted that his eldest daughter, and heir to the throne, continue with the state visit despite his illness. During the journey, the princess and her husband were entertained in a log hut which was built in the uppermost branches of a tree. It was here that Princess Elizabeth learned of the death of her father. Corbett wrote in his journal:

“For the first time in the history of the world, a young girl climbed into a tree one day a Princess…and climbed down from the tree the next day a Queen – God bless her.”

Starting with those words, young readers were taught about the life of the Monarch. Concise text and interesting photos led the reader through the interesting experiences of one of the world’s longest reigning sovereigns. Let’s take a look inside. 

History's Runway: The Jester Glasses, 1954

The Jester Glasses
Oliver Goldsmith Co., 1955
The Victoria & Albert Museum

Philip Oliver Goldsmith, a salesman for a small optical concern, founded his own eyewear firm in London in 1926.  In 1935, his son Charles Oliver Goldsmith joined the family firm with the with the goal of making glasses into fashion item instead of an ugly necessity.

The firm became known for their attention-grabbing designs which attracted celebrity endorsement for their products. Famous clients included Lord Snowdon, the actress Diana Dors, Princess Grace of Monaco and Diana, Princess of Wales.

This pair from 1954 shows Charles Oliver Goldsmith's flair for design and his desire to offer an unusual alternative to the practical eyewear that was available at the time. With a whimsical, exaggerated cat-eye shape, this design was whimsically entitled “The Jester Glasses” and though abstract, they were still quite wearable.  

The Plastic sunglasses with exaggerated scalloped edges were hand-cut with a blue veneer laminated onto the surface.

Object of the Day, Museum Edition: A Souvenir of the Marriage of Prince Charles and Lady Diana

Mug
Commemorating the Wedding of Charles, Prince of Wales
and Lady Diana Spencer, 1981
China, Made in England
The Victoria & Albert Museum

Lately, I’ve enjoyed coming across items in the collections of museums which I also have in my own collection. I recently noticed, in the collection of the Victoria & Albert Museum, this china mug commemorating the 1981 wedding of The Prince of Wales and Lady Diana Spencer at St. Paul’s Cathedral.


A few weeks ago, during the Royal Wedding hoopla, I posted an image of my own “Charles and Diana” plate which has been printed with the same pattern. The cup at the V&A, a creation of bone china from Nanrich Pottery, was actually in use by a member of the museum’s staff for many years before being selected for display in the British Galleries and its formal acquisition by the V&A.

Such souvenirs generally fall into two categories. The first are functional object designed for daily use. The second set of objects are those which are created solely as keepsakes. Oddly enough, it’s those items which are used daily which seem to be the ones which survive the longest.

Object of the Day: A Souvenir of the Wedding of Prince Charles and Princess Diana, 1981

On the morning of July 29, 1981, the world watched the “fairytale” wedding of Charles, Prince of Wales to Lady Diana Spencer. Resplendent in diamonds and silk, she entered St. Paul’s Cathedral to greet her Prince and future husband, and people around the globe were immediately captivated with her.


What started as a fairytale proved to be a nightmare, constantly chronicled by the press and under endless amounts of scrutiny. Still, the event was a day of celebration—not just in Britain, but across the entire world. Dozens of souvenir items were manufactured to commemorate the event. This is one of them.

This small china plate, rimmed in gold, bears the likenesses of the Prince and future Princess in a heart-shaped frame surrounded by symbols of Britain and surmounted by the Imperial crown. While their marriage didn’t last, these souvenirs remain as a reminder of the innocence and joy of the day and the expectations held by the world for this couple.

The Art of Play: The Royal Wedding Charger, 1981

The Royal Wedding Charger
1981
The Victoria & Albert Museum
Museum of Childhood

This oddly cute toy was produced in 1981 as a memento of the wedding of Prince Charles and Lady Diana Spencer and is the work of Maggie Wareham. Constructed of rope, wood, beads, shells and lace, this hand-carved and hand-painted toy depicts the Prince and Princess of Wales astride a colorful charger.


Though Mr. Heal had created this unusual piece for Mr. Oliver Heal of the department store Heal's of Tottenham Court Road, London. Instead of displaying this nifty object in the store as planned, Mr. Heal was so amused by the toy that he donated it to the Victoria & Albert Museum of Childhood.

Person of the Week: Diana, Princess of Wales

Portrait by Richard Foster, RP

What would have been a “fairy tale” was a life shadowed by pain and doubt. Though some will debate the nature of her true character, no one can deny that Diana, Princess of Wales, was one of the most beautiful and fascinating women of the last century.


August 31 marks the anniversary of her tragic death in 1997. If you’re reading this blog, chances are you remember her wedding to the Prince of Wales. I recall sitting downstairs in our family room as a child, watching her in her magnificent dress on that day. Since then, I’ve always had a soft spot for Diana, and I was terribly saddened to learn of her death.

We all know all of the tabloid junk. Let’s look past that now. Here was a woman who came from the wealthy, aristocratic Spencer family—rooted in centuries of power and prestige. She married the Prince of Wales. Here’s someone who could have been vain and vapid—intolerant and shallow. Yet, she wasn’t. No matter what life threw at Diana, she soldiered on. She was human—subject to the same highs and lows that all of us are, and, so she reacted as any human would. However, she was undeterred in her missions. She put two priorities above all else—protecting her children and helping humanity.

Her visits to patients with AIDS and Leprosy were not the stuff of photo-opportunities. She touched, she talked, she genuinely cared. She made it her goal to try to make people feel better, to make them feel wanted, loved and important and to try to give them some of the things that she seemed to feel she lacked in her own life. Diana worked with the homeless, the elderly and the lost. Through her efforts, she looked after soldiers, people battling addiction and people who felt they had nowhere else to turn.

She was effortlessly beautiful whether in couture or khakis. Draped in diamonds or wearing a helmet, her beauty came from within. Hers was a light that could have been extinguished by circumstance, yet she kept it burning as brightly as she could. For that, we can still learn from her today. And, so, one week before the anniversary of her death, Diana, Princess of Wales, is our person of the week.