Showing posts sorted by relevance for query cambridge emeralds. Sort by date Show all posts
Showing posts sorted by relevance for query cambridge emeralds. Sort by date Show all posts

Thursday, October 17, 2013

Mastery of Design: The Cambridge Emeralds








The Vladimir Tiara, 1921The Royal Collection

Like most famous jewels, the Cambridge Emeralds have a long and fascinating history. Originally part of a collection of magnificent jewels belonging to Indian royalty, a suite of flawless emeralds came into British hands and was auctioned off at a charity ball in 1818. 



Princess Mary Adelaide of Cambridge,
The Duchess of Teck and Mother of
Queen Mary wearing the famed
emeralds
The winner was The Duchess of Cambridge, the grandmother of Queen Mary. Eventually (and with some difficulty which is the stuff of much debate and dubious scandal), Mary managed to get hold of the emeralds and took no time in having them set into both new and existing pieces of jewelry.

Queen Mary wearing the parure


A Diamond Brooch
with Two of the Cambridge Emeralds
The Royal Collection
Most notably, Queen Mary had a portion of the Cambridge Emeralds installed in the newly acquired Vladimir Tiara—once the crown of Grand Duchess Vladimir, aunt of the last Russian Tsar Nicholas II. Mary ordered that the original hanging pearls in the tiara be replaced with fifteen of the celebrated Cambridge Emeralds. I should add that the pearls were retained and can be replaced in the tiara when emeralds just won’t do.

Many of the other emeralds were used in a variety of brooches, necklaces, bracelets and earrings designed by the Royal Jewelers at Garrards. In almost all cases, the emeralds are detachable from their settings so that other stones can be fitted depending on the color of the gown. That was rather an economical idea of Queen Mary. Wasn’t it? 



The Cambridge Emeralds in their various settings are not part of the Crown Jewels, but rather are the personal property of Her Majesty, the Queen and are on display as part of The Royal Collection. Queen Elizabeth II often wears two of the brooches which were set with the Cambridge Emeralds and has worn the Vladimir Tiara on special occasions. Queen Mary would be proud.




Earrings Featuring the Cambridge EmeraldsThe Royal Collection


The Princess of Wales wore the choker as a choker and....


Thursday, September 30, 2010

Mastery of Design: The Cambridge Emeralds

The Vladimir Tiara, 1921
The Royal Collection
Like most famous jewels, the Cambridge Emeralds have a long and fascinating history. Originally part of a collection of magnificent jewels belonging to Indian royalty, a suite of flawless emeralds came into British hands and was auctioned off at a charity ball in 1818. The winner was The Duchess of Cambridge, the grandmother of Queen Mary. Eventually (and with some difficulty which is the stuff of much debate and dubious scandal), Mary managed to get hold of the emeralds and took no time in having them set into both new and existing pieces of jewelry.


A Diamond Brooch
with Two of the Cambridge Emeralds
The Royal Collection
Most notably, Queen Mary had a portion of the Cambridge Emeralds installed in the newly acquired Vladimir Tiara—once the crown of Grand Duchess Vladimir, aunt of the last Russian Tsar Nicholas II. Mary ordered that the original hanging pearls in the tiara be replaced with fifteen of the celebrated Cambridge Emeralds. I should add that the pearls were retained and can be replaced in the tiara when emeralds just won’t do.

Many of the other emeralds were used in a variety of brooches, necklaces, bracelets and earrings designed by the Royal Jewelers at Garrards. In almost all cases, the emeralds are detachable from their settings so that other stones can be fitted depending on the color of the gown. That was rather an economical idea of Queen Mary. Wasn’t it?

Earrings Featuring the Cambridge Emeralds
The Royal Collection
The Cambridge Emeralds in their various settings are not part of the Crown Jewels, but rather are the personal property of Her Majesty, the Queen and are on display as part of The Royal Collection. Queen Elizabeth II often wears two of the brooches which were set with the Cambridge Emeralds and has worn the Vladimir Tiara on special occasions. Queen Mary would be proud.

Saturday, March 2, 2013

Mastery of Design: Queen Mary’s Emerald and Diamond Choker, c. 1920



Choker
Diamonds, Emeralds, Platinum
circa 1920
Garrard's
The Royal Collection
This shimmering choker of emeralds and brilliant-cut diamonds was originally set in yellow gold and contains several of the Cambridge emeralds from the Delhi Durbar Parure. In the 1920’s, the always fashionable Mary of Teck commissioned Garrard’s to re-set the stones in a platinum setting as was fashion of the Art Deco.


This was one of the special pieces of jewelry that were bequeathed to Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II upon Queen Mary’s death in 1953. This choker was famously worn by Diana, Princess of Wales who adapted it into a headband when she borrwed it from Queen Elizabeth.  The Princess of Wales also wore the piece as a choker as well.




Thursday, May 26, 2011

Gifts of Grandeur: Queen Mary’s Emerald and Diamond Choker, c. 1920

Choker
Diamonds, Emeralds, Platinum
circa 1920
Garrard's
The Royal Collection
This shimmering choker of emeralds and brilliant-cut diamonds was originally set in yellow gold and contains several of the Cambridge emeralds from the Delhi Durbar Parure. In the 1920’s, the always fashionable Mary of Teck commissioned Garrard’s to re-set the stones in a platinum setting as was fashion of the Art Deco.


This was one of the special pieces of jewelry that were bequeathed to Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II upon Queen Mary’s death in 1953. This choker was famously worn by Diana, Princess of Wales who adapted it into a headband when she borrwed it from Queen Elizabeth. 

Monday, July 16, 2012

A List of Your 15 Favorite Posts from the Last Two Years


Over the past two years, thus far, I’ve posted just shy of 4900 articles to Stalking the Belle Époque including the 588 Chapters of Mr. Punch of Belgrave Square and Punch’s Cousin. There’s a little something for everyone here from discussions of antiques to the television programs which Bertie most enjoys.

Regular readers know that the ten most popular posts of “all time” are always listed on the right side of the page. However, here are fifteen more of your favorite posts. These posts are the among those which you have read the most.


Crown Copyright
The Royal Collection
Image Courtesy of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II



1. Queen Mary’s Dolls’ House 

This magnificent work of art, housed in Windsor Castle, was made for Queen Mary, consort of King George V as a means of showcasing the finest in British craftsmanship. It remains a gorgeous testament to a brilliant period.



The Victoria & Albert Museum


2. The Diamond and Ruby Tiara 

Made in 1835, this tiara doubles as a necklace. Housed in the V&A, it’s indicative of the magnificent naturalistic jewelry which dominated Britain in the 1830s. 



The Winchester Mystery House


3. The Winchester Mystery House 

Sarah Winchester’s Sprawling Queen Anne mansion in San Jose California may appear, from the exterior, to be just another of America’s Victorian castles, but it holds a series of odd secrets and features no shortage of weirdness.


Crown Copyright
The Royal Collection
Image Courtesy of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II
Queen Mary managed to return many lost treasures to the Royal Collection, but she took special delight in her acquisition of her grandmother’s magnificent emeralds.








5. Buckingham Palace 

The primary official residence of the British monarch, Buckingham Palace began its long life as a country house. Centuries of expansion and alteration have made it into one of the grandest homes in the world.

Known to fans of the dearly departed daytime drama, “All My Children,” know this fine Tudor-style estate as Cortlandt Manor, but Waveny House remains one of the most elegant historic homes in the U.S.



7. Pauline Collins and John Alderton 

They were Thomas and Sarah from the original “Upstairs, Downstairs,” and this real-life couple continue to be one of Britain’s premier acting families.








8. Belgrave Square 

At the heart of London’s posh City of Westminster, Belgrave Square has been the home of Britain’s elite for centuries.

BBC News

9. The Halo Tiara 

The world watched with pride as Prince William of Wales married his longtime love Katherine Middleton. The newly created Duchess of Cambridge was the focus of global attention as she appeared at Westminster Abbey on her wedding day. Wearing the “Halo Tiara,” the Duchess’ beauty was not outshined by the jewels, but rather, only heightened.




10. Queen Elizabeth II's Wedding Dress 

Sir Norman Hartnell designed this magnificent gown for the 1947 marriage of the future Queen Elizabeth II to Prince Philip.









The Victoria & Albert Museum


11. The Coral Tiara 

Tiaras seem to be popular. This unique creation of coral is one of the most unusual of the jeweled headpieces we’ve examined.





12. King Edward VII’s Dog Caesar 

While not a faithful husband, King Edward VII was loyal to his pets, and they to him. No dog was closer to the King than Caesar who famously followed his master’s coffin during his funeral procession.








The Victoria & Albert Museum


13. The Mrs. Roy Hudson Circle Gown 

This gown by the famous House of Worth is the epitome of 1950s glamour.


The Victoria & Albert Museum



14. The Janey Morris Brooch 

The wife of the celebrated designer William Morris, Jane Morris was also a favorite of the Pre-Raphaelite painter Dante Gabriel Rossetti who famously gifted her with many jewels including this stunning brooch. 


USA Network



15. Matt Bomer 

We are fans of Mr. Matt Bomer and, it seems, you are too. The talented star of USA’s “White Collar” has become quite the film star of late. However, more so than his celebrity and incredible good looks, it’s his spirit and humble charm which afford him limitless appeal.

Monday, January 14, 2013

Mastery of Design: Delhi Durbar Tiara, 1911

The Delhi Durbar Tiara
Made for H.M. Queen Mary
Garrard & Co., 1911
Crown Copyright
The Royal Collection
Image Courtesy of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II




Queen Mary had decided that she and King George V needed different crowns when named Emperor and Empress of India than those they’d worn for their 1911 coronation.  She was told that the expense seemed unnecessary.  Her Majesty, then, went to her friends and asked them nicely to donate the diamonds and gemstones which were needed for these crowns.  She went back to the advisors and told them that the only cost would be the manufacture of the crowns, and, she got her way.

She also got a nice tiara out of the deal.  This tiara was made by Garrard & Co. in 1911 for the December 12 Delhi Durbar.  The tiara was constructed so that it could be hung with the Cambridge Emeralds or with pearls should the Queen desire.  Therefore, the piece is considered part of  the Queen’s parure of emeralds and diamonds which also included a necklace, stomacher, brooch and earrings.

The tiara a designed as a tall circlet of lyres and S-scrolls which are linked by festoons of rose-cut and brilliant-cut diamonds.  In 1912, the tiara was altered so that it could accommodate both of the two Lesser Stars of Africa – Cullinan III and IV.

Queen Mary lent the tiara to Queen Elizabeth in 1946 so that the Queen Mother could wear it during the 1947 South African Tour.  Following Queen Mary’s 1953 death, the Queen Mother kept the Durbar tiara in her own collection until her death in 2002. In 2005, it was lent by Queen Elizabeth II to The Duchess of Cornwall, wife of Prince Charles.



Monday, June 16, 2014

Mastery of Design: Delhi Durbar Tiara, 1911



The Delhi Durbar Tiara
Made for H.M. Queen Mary
Garrard & Co., 1911
Crown Copyright
The Royal Collection 
Image Courtesy of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II




Queen Mary had decided that she and King George V needed different crowns when named Emperor and Empress of India than those they’d worn for their 1911 coronation.  She was told that the expense seemed unnecessary.  Her Majesty, then, went to her friends and asked them nicely to donate the diamonds and gemstones which were needed for these crowns.  She went back to the advisors and told them that the only cost would be the manufacture of the crowns, and, she got her way.

She also got a nice tiara out of the deal.  This tiara was made by Garrard & Co. in 1911 for the December 12 Delhi Durbar.  The tiara was constructed so that it could be hung with the Cambridge Emeralds or with pearls should the Queen desire.  Therefore, the piece is considered part of  the Queen’s parure of emeralds and diamonds which also included a necklace, stomacher, brooch and earrings.

The tiara a designed as a tall circlet of lyres and S-scrolls which are linked by festoons of rose-cut and brilliant-cut diamonds.
  In 1912, the tiara was altered so that it could accommodate both of the two Lesser Stars of Africa – Cullinan III and IV.

Queen Mary lent the tiara to Queen Elizabeth in 1946 so that the Queen Mother could wear it during the 1947 South African Tour.  Following Queen Mary’s 1953 death, the Queen Mother kept the Durbar tiara in her own collection until her death in 2002. In 2005, it was lent by Queen Elizabeth II to The Duchess of Cornwall, wife of Prince Charles.


Monday, April 2, 2012

Mr. Punch of Belgrave Square, Chapter 1



Chapter One:
The Idol's Gossip


Rumors of the Duke of Fallbridge’s strange behavior had flooded London Society since he had returned from his long, mysterious voyage to America.  Reports of the Duke’s peculiarities clung to the lips of lords and ladies, dukes and duchesses, viscounts, barons and even a princess or two.  New information was shared daily and the topic of Julian, Duke of Fallbridge and his family remained a fashionable pursuit throughout the spring of 1853. 

Few people, however, were eager to admit that they had neither seen nor spoken to the Duke themselves since his return to his luxurious townhouse at No. 65 Belgrave Square.  To be sure, most of the tales spread about the Duke—though somewhat based on fact, at first, at least (even if most of the information came from the overeager mouths of servants)—were exaggerated and pure hearsay.  Still, a lack of solid proof never prevented a baron from badmouthing a Duke and it certainly never kept a baroness from gossiping about one of London’ most prominent households. 

Even Their Majesties Queen Victoria and Prince Albert were keen to learn of the odd conduct of the Duke of Fallbridge.  When still just Lord Fallbridge, Julian, had been a favorite of the Prince and his regal wife.  Prince Albert considered Julian to be one of the most talented jewelers in Britain and often sought out Fallbridge to collaborate on projects.  Lord Fallbridge had, after all, created a good many of the garter stars for the court, and, then, there was the stunning parure which he had created with the Cambridge emeralds and some of the most perfect diamonds that the Royal Couple had ever seen.  Of course he was a favorite.  And, of course, Their Majesties were interested to know if the Duke would be able to continue to serve them.

Prince Albert had no interest in baseless gossip.  While the Sovereign was more accepting of scandalous chatter, the Prince had no room for it.  He wanted facts, and, certainly these facts were provided to him.  Perhaps because of this, the Prince Consort was one of the few people in London to know only the truth (or what the Duke claimed was the truth) of the Duke’s return.

As reported to the Prince Consort, Julian, Lord Fallbridge explained his lengthy absence by stating that he had gone to New Orleans, in America, to look for his sister, Lady Barbara, who had fled England to avoid marrying a less-than-interesting baron.  Lord Fallbridge’s mother, the Duchess of Fallbridge (always a thorn in Prince Albert’s side) had followed.  There, Fallbridge claimed, the Duchess and Lady Barbara were felled by the virulent fever epidemic which had caused havoc across the southern part of America.  Fallbridge inherited his mother’s title and the newly created Duke returned to Britain with a child that he had adopted (the son of a family who had also been lost to the Yellow Fever) and a man called Dr. Robert Halifax with whom the Duke had set up residence in Belgrave Square.  With them came two valets and, several weeks later, an African woman whom the Duke and the Doctor employed as a parlor maid.  That was all that Prince Albert needed or wanted to know.

Queen Victoria, however, when the Prince was out of earshot, didn’t mind hearing the Baroness Lehzan speak animatedly about the rumors that the Duke’s adopted son was really the illegitimate child of Lady Barbara and the Duke’s late valet.  The Queen gasped to learn that some believed that the Duchess of Fallbridge had ordered the murder of her own husband, Sir Colin Molliner, and that the Duchess herself had been murdered, and not lost to fever as the Duke reported.  Victoria blushed at the whispers that the Duke and his new companion, Dr. Halifax, were more than just friends, and she giggled nervously upon learning that it was suspected that the Duke’s sister had not died at all,  but was actually living in America where she had become a prostitute.

Nevertheless, The Queen, like much of London society, took these tidbits of gossip as being just that—bits of fluff which served to entertain them in ballrooms and theatre boxes.  What was more troubling, at least to the Queen, were the rumors of the Duke’s changed demeanor. 

Before he’d left for America, the last that anyone had seen of the newly created Duke, he had fled from his London townhouse to return to Fallbridge Hall.  His exodus had taken place after being attacked by thieves.  The Duke had always been a shy and nervous sort who loathed loud talking and groups of more than two people.  He’d always been quiet and reclusive, but after being attacked, it was said that he never left his rooms at Fallbridge Hall.  That’s what made the news of his journey to America all the more surprising.  Everyone who knew of the trip wondered how in the world the man would ever function in such a wild place as America.  Perhaps that accounted for the change in the man.  Perhaps he had to adapt in order to survive.

To be sure,  after returning, the Duke looked better than he ever had.  Somehow the journey had agreed with him physically.  He was more robust and broad than he had ever been.  His face, still angular and pale, had a more relaxed look to it—framed by reddish, chestnut hair.  And, many reported that the Duke’s almond-shaped brown eyes—which had long been without any spark of life—once again flickered and shined.
 
Gone, however, was the quiet manner in which he spoke—replaced with an excited, chattering voice, peppered with bad grammar and a roughness  which had never been there before.  In many ways, he was said to act more like a servant than a Duke and, certainly, more like a child than a man of nearly forty years.

Then, there was the strange bond with the doctor.  Many believed that few would object to their relationship had Dr. Halifax been born into the upper class.  But, the man was of middle class origins (and the son of a woman who is said to have died in an asylum).  Certainly, he was not the choicest companion for the Duke of Fallbridge.

No one could recall the origins of the story.  It had been told to ladies by their maids since the Duke returned.  From whom the first maid had learned it, no one can be sure, but the rumor was that this Dr. Halifax—when they were home, alone—referred to the Duke not as “Your Grace” or “Fallbridge,” as would have been fitting, but as “Mr. Punch” or “Dear Punch.”  Punch?  Mr. Punch—as in the red-nosed, hunch-backed puppet with the crimson suit and scarlet cap?  Mr. Punch—Judy’s husband?  Mr. Punch who killed his own baby?  That Mr. Punch?  Why on earth would this man call a Duke by such a name?

And, yet, if the tales were true, wasn’t the Duke’s behavior—the rough speech, the exclamations of joy, the curious and child-like nature, the quickness to anger—rather like that of the famed puppet of Covent Garden?

Queen Victoria, like many, was intrigued by the thought.  However, there were others who were made nervous by it—by the whole thing!

One of those sat in the front hallway of No. 65 Belgrave Square—three months to the day that the Duke and the Doctor had opened up the grand mansion again.  Ellen Barrett studied her surroundings.  The house was assuredly elegant—perfectly-kept and handsomely decorated in shades of turquoise , coral, gold and pale green.  The black and white marble floor gleamed so much so that its intricate pattern seemed to vibrate.  The dramatic staircase which rose majestically in loose curves through the center of the house was illuminated from above by a glass dome.  Daylight streamed down the steps, making the imported Persian runner seem to come alive with color: sienna, rust, salmon, crimson, indigo, purple, azure, emerald…

Yes, it was a handsome house.  Ellen ran her fingers along the gilt arm of the comfortable chair in which she sat, waiting for her interview.  The young man who had opened the door and ushered her in was good-looking and charming.  He had introduced himself as Charles, the first footman and valet to His Grace, the Duke.  When Charles had disappeared behind the door which led downstairs to the servants’ hall, Ellen wished to follow him.  She could see herself being happy in that house.  Well, thus far at least.

Footsteps—a man’s footsteps—on the stairs made Ellen stand.  She adjusted her black skirts and fidgeted with the folded references she held in her hands.  She stood as stiffly and regally as she could and forced herself to smile.

“I’m terribly sorry to have kept you waiting,”  a man smiled at her as he came down the stairs.  He was tremendously handsome with bright blue eyes and ebony hair which curled around his long, strong neck.  Thin and trim, he wore a beautifully tailored suit of dove gray which framed his broad shoulders.  He smiled genuinely.

“Your Grace?”  Ellen bowed her head.

“No.”  The man smiled. “I am Dr. Robert Halifax.”

“I see.”  Ellen nodded.

“And you are?”

“Miss Ellen Barrett.”

“Have you your references?”  The doctor asked.

“I have, Sir.”  Ellen nodded.  She handed the folded pages to the man. 

“Would  you please follow me?”  Robert asked, pointing to the staircase.  “His Grace is waiting for you in the library.”

“Yes.”  Ellen nodded.

“I know he’s eager to see you.”  Robert smiled again, climbing the stairs.  “We’ve had such a time finding a governess for little Colin.  Our parlor maid, Gamilla, has been watching the boy since she arrived.  However, it’s not fair to her to ask her to continue to do so.”

“A child should have a proper governess.”

“I agree.”  Dr. Halifax nodded.  They paused at the landing and Robert gestured toward a tall, cream-painted door adorned with applied gilt moldings.  “He’s waiting.  Shall we?”

Ellen took a deep breath and nodded.  She was finally going to see the man about whom all of London had been buzzing for weeks. 




Come back tomorrow for Chapter 2 of Mr. Punch of Belgrave Square.  You will always be able to read all chapters of this story in the Mr. Punch of Belgrave Square, Chapter Archive.  

Saturday, March 10, 2012

Obscure Book of the Day: A Pictorial Biography of Her Majesty Queen Mary




Here’s another Pitkin Guide!  Hooray!  This one is called “A Pictorial History of Her Majesty Queen Mary.”  And, that’s really exactly what it is.  Like all Pitkin books of the era, this one has no date of publication, but it was obviously published during Queen Mary’s lifetime, so before 1953.  Judging by the images, now-Queen, then-Princess Elizabeth had already married and given birth to Prince Charles, so this book dates between 1948 and 1953.

The forward, “The Story of a Great and Gracious Lady” was written by Marguerite D. Peacock, a frequent contributor to these Pitkin Guides.

Let’s take a look inside…






Queen Mary, first as The Duchess of York with her first son, David--the Great Keruffler--and, finally with her grandson, Prince Charles.

Princess Mary of Teck

Princess May was a beloved figure throughout Britain.

After her marriage, Mary was created Duchess of York.

At the Delhi Durbar with King George V--declared Emperor and Empress of India.

Ready to be Queen.  Wearing the famed Cambridge Emeralds.

Queen Mary was a great source of national morale during the Great War.

Centerfold.

Her final meeting with her disappointing eldest child, David.  After the Abdication Kerfuffle, Mary did not see her son for many years.  The Duke of Windsor had one final visit with his mother before her death. Jerk.


If you love Queen Mary as much as I do, you might enjoy our exclusive “Teck Support” designs which are available only at our online store.  Or, if you want to rub the late Duke of Windsor’s abdicating nose in it, the Abdication Kerfuffle ™ designs will be just the thing.