Mastery of Design: "The Queen of Transylvania" Tiara, 1958

Costume Tiara
Cecil Beaton, 1958
The Victoria & Albert Museum

This costume tiara was made for the character of the  “Queen of Transylvania” (as played by Margaret Halstan) in the London production of the musical “My Fair Lady,” at the Theatre Royal, Drury Lane.  The show opened on April 30, 1958.

Based on George Bernard Shaw's play “Pygmalion,” the music for the famous musical was composed by Frederick Lowe, and the book and lyrics were by Alan Jay Lerner. The production was directed by Moss Hart (husband of my dear Kitty Carlisle Hart), the sets were designed by Oliver Smith, and the costumes were designed by the celebrated photographer Cecil Beaton.

The production starred Julie Andrews as Eliza Dolittle and Rex Harrison as Henry Higgins.

This bears a label for Margaret Halstan, who played the Queen throughout most of the London run for My Fair Lady. This is one of several tiaras designed for Halstan for the production.  Photographs from the show indicate different sixed crowns of different weights, allowing the actress flexibility in what she wore each night.  A silversmith made the tiaras, set with fine pastes, based on Beaton’s detailed designs.  

History's Runway: Eliza's Gown from "My Fair Lady," 1958

Eliza's Ball Gown
Cecil Beaton, 1958
Worn by Julie Andrews
The Victoria & Albert Museum

Cecil Beaton—the famed photographer was also a celebrated costume designer, as we know, and devoted much of his time to collecting the fashion of the world for posteriry.  His famous designs for My Fair Lady added immeasurably to the success of Lerner and Lowe's musical both in New York and London.

Based on Pygmalion, the musical—directed by Moss Hart—was set in 1914.  Beaton recalled the fashion of his childhood and found a way to incorporate fashions remembered from relatives, family friends and the picture postcard beauties that he avidly collected.

With this said, however, the dress he designed for “Eliza Doolittle” to wear to the Embassy ball is timeless—owing as much to the coming 1960s as it did to 1914.  

This gown was first worn by Julie Andrews at Drury Lane in 1958. The ball dress is in created of  ivory satin overlaid with fine chiffon with a low straight-cut, boned, fitted bodice with narrow diamante shoulder straps (now missing) and a fitted midriff simulating a deep belt.  Beaton cleverly designed the narrow fitted skirt to cut away at the front to reveal an under-panel. At the top edge of the bodice is a line of shimmering crystal beads as the whole of the bodice is embroidered in silver thread with a pattern of stylized flower sprays in diamante, rhinestones, pearls and crystal beads with a central paste “ruby.”  

The gown still features the original label reading: “Miss Julie Andrews.”

Mastery of Design: "The Queen of Transylvania" Tiara, 1958

Costume Tiara
Cecil Beaton, 1958
The Victoria & Albert Museum

This costume tiara was made for the character of the  “Queen of Transylvania” (as played by Margaret Halstan) in the London production of the musical “My Fair Lady,” at the Theatre Royal, Drury Lane.  The show opened on April 30, 1958.

Based on George Bernard Shaw's play “Pygmalion,” the music for the famous musical was composed by Frederick Lowe, and the book and lyrics were by Alan Jay Lerner. The production was directed by Moss Hart (husband of my dear Kitty Carlisle Hart), the sets were designed by Oliver Smith, and the costumes were designed by the celebrated photographer Cecil Beaton.

The production starred Julie Andrews as Eliza Dolittle and Rex Harrison as Henry Higgins.

This bears a label for Margaret Halstan, who played the Queen throughout most of the London run for My Fair Lady. This is one of several tiaras designed for Halstan for the production.  Photographs from the show indicate different sixed crowns of different weights, allowing the actress flexibility in what she wore each night.  A silversmith made the tiaras, set with fine pastes, based on Beaton’s detailed designs.