History's Runway: Eliza's Gown from "My Fair Lady," 1958

Eliza's Ball Gown
Cecil Beaton, 1958
Worn by Julie Andrews
The Victoria & Albert Museum

Cecil Beaton—the famed photographer was also a celebrated costume designer, as we know, and devoted much of his time to collecting the fashion of the world for posteriry.  His famous designs for My Fair Lady added immeasurably to the success of Lerner and Lowe's musical both in New York and London.

Based on Pygmalion, the musical—directed by Moss Hart—was set in 1914.  Beaton recalled the fashion of his childhood and found a way to incorporate fashions remembered from relatives, family friends and the picture postcard beauties that he avidly collected.

With this said, however, the dress he designed for “Eliza Doolittle” to wear to the Embassy ball is timeless—owing as much to the coming 1960s as it did to 1914.  

This gown was first worn by Julie Andrews at Drury Lane in 1958. The ball dress is in created of  ivory satin overlaid with fine chiffon with a low straight-cut, boned, fitted bodice with narrow diamante shoulder straps (now missing) and a fitted midriff simulating a deep belt.  Beaton cleverly designed the narrow fitted skirt to cut away at the front to reveal an under-panel. At the top edge of the bodice is a line of shimmering crystal beads as the whole of the bodice is embroidered in silver thread with a pattern of stylized flower sprays in diamante, rhinestones, pearls and crystal beads with a central paste “ruby.”  

The gown still features the original label reading: “Miss Julie Andrews.”