Saturday, November 3, 2012

Mastery of Design: Queen Mary's Castellani Pendant, 1860

Pendant
Castellani, c. 1860
Acquired by Queen Mary
Crown Copyright
The Royal Collection
Image Courtesy of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II



We’ve looked at a variety of jewels made in the archaeological style by the Italian firm of Augusto Castellani. While most of the examples we’ve seen are from the Victoria & Albert Museum, this one comes to us from the Royal Collection. It is believed that the jewel was purchased by Queen Mary, Consort of King George V. 

The pendant of gold, enamel, Burmese ruby, cabochon rubies, Colombian emerald and an Indian emerald drop was made in 1860. The center of the pendant is set with a Burmese ruby surrounded by four lobes and palmettes with dots. Acanthus leaves in deep green edge the piece which is finished with a Gothic leaf finial. Blue enamel grotesque masks adorn the piece which also boasts a Columbian emerald in a setting of black enamel. An additional pendant set with cabochon rubies and Indian emerald drop hands from the main jewel.

The reverse of the pendant is lovely gold with an oval recess surrounded by engraved acanthus leaves. It is marked by a double ‘C’ monogram—the mark of Castellani. At one point, the central recess on the reverse was likely glazed to accept a lock of hair or a miniature.

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