Gifts of Grandeur: The Venus and Cupid Necklace, 1890

Necklace
Enamel, Gold, Diamonds, Pearls, Rubies
French, 1890
The Victoria & Albert Museum

In the Nineteenth Century, almost every item told a story. Jewelry had a language all of its own. Sometimes this language was quite subtle, told secretly through arrangements of gemstones. Sometimes, the message was more overt—such as this circa 1890 necklace featuring enameled gold figures (ronde-bosse enamel) of Venus and Cupid, set with a baroque pearl, table-cut diamonds and a cabochon ruby.

Designers of the time loved to turn to historical styles as models. Though made about 1890, this necklace was clearly inspired by the style of the elaborate enamel and gold pendants of the Renaissance.

Typical of jewels of the late Nineteenth Century, the necklace is decorated on the reverse with equal care as was taken to adorn the front. This is the work of Louis Wièse, who, along with his father, Jules, operated a celebrated Parisian jewelry firm which specialized in works inspired by archaeological finds, the Middle Ages and the Renaissance.