Gifts of Grandeur: The Basket Brooch, 1890

Brooch
Platinum, Gold, Diamonds, Rubies, Emeralds
French, 1890
The Victoria & Albert Museum

Delicately crafted of interwoven platinum and gold, a basket holds flowers of the same metals set with rose-cut diamonds, rubies and emeralds. Made by an known maker, the work is certainly Parisian and dates to about 1890 when such floral-themed jewels reached their height of popularity.

The trend of jeweled floral arrangements in baskets first came into fashion in France in the 1750s with “giardinetti” (little garden) rings were made of tiny jewel-set blooms. This Rococo phenomenon was resurrected later as it appealed to Victorian sensibilities. Such jewels were often given as tokens of affection or to mark occasions such as weddings, engagements or anniversaries. More somber versions in jet and onyx were crafted a memorial pieces.