Mastery of Design: The Grundy Butterfly Pin, c. 1800

Click on image to enlarge.
Hair Pin
England, 1800
The British Museum

I really like this pin which dates to around 1800. It was likely made in England, but we’ll examine that more closely in a second. Originally, the piece was made as a hairpin. It’s crafted of silver with a closed-back and set with diamonds with ruby eyes and antennae of gold wire.

Two hinged arms with loops at the end were added to the back at a later date. This addition allowed the jewel to be worn as a pendant hung from a ribbon or chain. Butterfly hairpins such as this one were fashionable between1800-30. The pins were usually worn with fresh flower wreaths.

The piece was once part of the collection of Hull Grundy. The curators of the British Museum believe that this pin might be one which was described in the records of the Royal Goldsmiths at Rundells. The piece therein described was supplied to Princess Amelia. The records state: 

“’An elegant Butterfly for the hair' for £142.15s for Princess Amelia.”

Mastery of Design: The Diamond Diadem, 1820

Crown Copyright
The Royal Collection
via The Royal Collection Trust
Image Courtesy of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II

Click image for larger size.

"The Diamond Diadem"
Crown Copyright
The Royal Collection
Image Courtesy of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II

A diadem is a type of crown, specifically one that fits around the upper forehead like a headband. The term also refers to a jeweled half-crown which is worn over the forehead. These are more commonly called a tiara.

One of the most famous diadems in the world is “The Diamond Diadem” made in 1820 for British King George IV. Since its creation for George IV’s lavish 1821 coronation, this diadem has been worn exclusively by female royals and is one of the most recognizable pieces of the Queen’s collection of jewelry.  Just take a look at a Royal Mail stamp.  You've definitely seen this piece before.

Crown Copyright
The Royal Collection
via The Royal Collection Trust
Image Courtesy of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II

Designed by master jewelers, Rundell, Bridge and Company, the diadem features 1,333 diamonds, including a four-carat pale yellow brilliant in the center of the front cross. The diamonds, set in gold and accented by pearls for the emblems of the countries in the British Empire: England, Scotland and Ireland. 

Crown Copyright
The Royal Collection
via The Royal Collection Trust
Image Courtesy of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II

Click image for larger size.

Crown Copyright
The Royal Collection
via The Royal Collection Trust
Image Courtesy of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth IIClick image for larger size.

Gifts of Grandeur: Queen Victoria’s Insignia of the Order of the Garter, 1840

Lesser George
Agate Cameo by Nathaniel Marchant
Setting of Gold and Diamonds
Early Nineteenth Century
Crown Copyright
The Royal Collection 
Image Courtesy of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II

Created by Nathaniel Marchant (1739-1816), this “Lesser George” insignia of the Order of the Garter is a work of brown on gray agate, gold and diamonds. While Royal Family oral history states that this chivalric badge was once worn by King George IV, it’s important to note that it was not recorded in the inventory of the Royal Collection until the accession of George’s niece, Queen Victoria, in 1837.

The badge clearly predates Victoria’s reign and is thought to be one of two which were made for King George IV while he was either still Prince of Wales or Prince Regent, filling-in for his ailing father, King George III. The more informal of the two, this badge features a lovely cameo of St. George about to vanquish the dragon, signed by Marchant. It’s likely that the setting is later.

The 1837 record of the badge, being its first mention, states only that Queen Victoria asked that this “Lesser George” be removed from Windsor Castle for “the Queen’s use.” That same year, the badge was take to Rundells where it was altered or repaired. Victoria favored this badge and wore it often. She was painted wearing the piece several times—notably by Franz Zaver Winterhalter. 

Mastery of Design: The Diamond Diadem, 1820

"The Diamond Diadem"
Crown Copyright
The Royal Collection
Image Courtesy of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II

A diadem is a type of crown, specifically one that fits around the upper forehead like a headband. The term also refers to a jeweled half-crown which is worn over the forehead. These are more commonly called a tiara.

One of the most famous diadems in the world is “The Diamond Diadem” made in 1820 for British King George IV. Since its creation for George IV’s lavish 1821 coronation, this diadem has been worn exclusively by female royals and is one of the most recognizable pieces of the Queen’s collection of jewelry.  Just take a look at a Royal Mail stamp.  You've definitely seen this piece before.

Designed by master jewelers, Rundell, Bridge and Company, the diadem features 1,333 diamonds, including a four-carat pale yellow brilliant in the center of the front cross. The diamonds, set in gold and accented by pearls for the emblems of the countries in the British Empire: England, Scotland and Ireland. The piece is so well-known, it is even featured on a postage stamp. 

Masterpiece of the Week: King George IV’s Bejeweled Tankard, 1823

Tankard
Silver gilt, cameos, gemstones
Rundell, Bridge and Rundell, 1823
The Royal Collection

This silver-gilt tankard with a pinecone finial is a kaleidoscope of Silver-gilt, agate, onyx, sardonyx, jasper, amethyst, Siberian amethyst, chrysoprase, emeralds, ruby, Russian aquamarine, Russian green beryl, sapphires from Sri Lanka, pink sapphire, and turquoises. The tankard features exceptional rocaille work. Rocaille—one of the hallmarks of Rococo styling—relies heavily on patterns of shells, stones and other natural motifs. The Royal Jewelers at Rundell, Bridge and Rundell crafted this tankard in 1823 with an abundance of antique cameos of mythological subject matter, intaglio, and colorful gemstones. Most of the cameos date to the Sixteenth Century


Cameo-studded tankards were quite the fashion of the time. King George III had acquired one of his own. So, it was only fitting that King George IV should have one, too. It’s unclear whether Rundell, Bride and Rundell created this tankard especially for King George IV, but it certainly tickled his fancy and he quickly added it to the Royal Collection.

Mastery of Design: The Grundy Butterfly Pin, c. 1800

Click on image to enlarge.
Hair Pin
England, 1800
The British Museum

I really like this pin which dates to around 1800. It was likely made in England, but we’ll examine that more closely in a second. Originally, the piece was made as a hairpin. It’s crafted of silver with a closed-back and set with diamonds with ruby eyes and antennae of gold wire.

Two hinged arms with loops at the end were added to the back at a later date. This addition allowed the jewel to be worn as a pendant hung from a ribbon or chain. Butterfly hairpins such as this one were fashionable between1800-30. The pins were usually worn with fresh flower wreaths.

The piece was once part of the collection of Hull Grundy. The curators of the British Museum believe that this pin might be one which was described in the records of the Royal Goldsmiths at Rundells. The piece therein described was supplied to Princess Amelia. The records state: 

“’An elegant Butterfly for the hair' for £142.15s for Princess Amelia.”

Mastery of Design: The Macklin Watch, c. 1795

Watch and Pair Case
James Macklin and Rundell, Bridge and Rudnell
1790-1795
This and all related images from
the Victoria & Albert Museum

Made in London between 1790 and 1795, this watch features an enameled gold case set with pearls. The case bears the mark of James Macklin. Meanwhile the movement with verge escapement was made by the firm of Rundell & Bridge (also known as Rundell, Bridge and Rundell). 

Mastery of Design: Queen Victoria’s Insignia of the Order of the Garter, 1840

Lesser George
Agate Cameo by Nathaniel Marchant
Setting of Gold and Diamonds
Early Nineteenth Century
Crown Copyright
The Royal Collection
Image Courtesy of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II

Created by Nathaniel Marchant (1739-1816), this “Lesser George” insignia of the Order of the Garter is a work of brown on gray agate, gold and diamonds. While Royal Family oral history states that this chivalric badge was once worn by King George IV, it’s important to note that it was not recorded in the inventory of the Royal Collection until the accession of George’s niece, Queen Victoria, in 1837.

The badge clearly predates Victoria’s reign and is thought to be one of two which were made for King George IV while he was either still Prince of Wales or Prince Regent, filling-in for his ailing father, King George III. The more informal of the two, this badge features a lovely cameo of St. George about to vanquish the dragon, signed by Marchant. It’s likely that the setting is later.

The 1837 record of the badge, being its first mention, states only that Queen Victoria asked that this “Lesser George” be removed from Windsor Castle for “the Queen’s use.” That same year, the badge was take to Rundells where it was altered or repaired. Victoria favored this badge and wore it often. She was painted wearing the piece several times—notably by Franz Zaver Winterhalter.