Mastery of Design: The Joan Hurst Liberty Peacock, 1975

Necklace
Liberty & Co., 1975
The Victoria & Albert Museum

This grand necklace was made in 1975 to commemorate the centenary of London-based shop Liberty & Co. Liberty’s has long been known as an “oriental emporium,” and this reputation is depicted on the gold chain and frame in the form of blossoms and bamboo. The enameled gold peacock represents Liberty’s contributions to the Arts & Crafts Movement. 

The bird’s eyes are plique-a-jour enamel. 

History’s Runway: The Baba Beaton Wedding Dress, 1934

Wedding Dress
Charles James, 1934
This and all related images from:
The Victoria & Albert Museum

This wedding gown was worn by Miss Baba Beaton in November of 1934 when she married Mr. Alec Hambro. The gown, designed by Charles James, shows the development of the designer’s famous complex cut and simple lines.

James said of his work, “all my seams have meaning - they emphasise something about the body.”

The gown is constructed of cream, ivory, and satin. It’s cut with a high neckline and long, tight sleeves. James’ famous seaming and darting serves to sculpt the satin to fit the body. The finishing touch is a spray of wax orange blossoms at the neck. 

Painting of the Day: A Watercolor by LeMoyne, 1575

Botanical Watercolor
Jacques LeMoyne de Morgues, 1575
The Victoria & Albert Museum

Huguenot artist, Jacques LeMoyne de Morgues (1533-1588) created this drawing as part of his album of 59 botanical watercolors in 1575. This leaf from the folio shows an iris stem terminating in two blossoms.

For centuries, LeMoyne was thought of only as a basic artist who provided images for simple woodcuts, the rediscovery of this album in the early Twentieth Century altered this perception. Now, he’s been given his due as one of the most important and prolific botanical painters in history. 

Treat of the Week: Homemade Sauce and 1234 Cake

Ah, the changing of the seasons means the end to the abundance of herbs in my mother’s garden and, being the clever sort, my mother makes sure to use them while they’re at their best. To this end, we often find autumn bringing us the much awaited giant pot of tomato sauce and homemade meatballs. 

Of course, every good Italian boy thinks his mama’s sauce and meatballs are the best. But, in this case, I’m right. Served up with a nice, crusty rosemary bread, a lovely and a lovely salad, it was just the best possible meal as the little nip begins to cling to the breeze. 

And, then, we got a new treat—a lovely cake known as the “1234 Cake,” so named for the amounts of the ingredients. 

A beautiful, dense white cake is the result. And, it’s truly the perfect texture. I was quite excited to see this gorgeous creation with its artful frosting of freshly whipped cream and beautiful strawberry adornment. The layers are filled with a flavorful spread of preserves, thinly-sliced strawberries and crème de cassis. Just look at those majestic whipped cream rosettes! Isn’t it pretty? As Hazel would say, “Missy, that cake is a doozy.” 

And, yes, I realize that I refer to Hazel too much. I’ll stop. I promise.

Mr. Punch of Belgrave Square, Chapter 188

Chapter 188
Workhouse Girl 


“What did ya just say to me?” Johnny growled.

“Don’t listen to her, Father!” Ellen snapped. “She’s—she’s weak-minded. She doesn’t know what she’s saying.”

“Quiet, you.” Johnny grumbled. “I’m talkin’ to the other lass. What did you just say to me?”

“I…” Lennie hung her head.

Charles rushed to Gamilla’s side and helped her to sit up. “Are you all right, Gamilla.” He asked.

Gamilla nodded. “Ain’t the first time I done been hit.”

“That’s enough!” Johnny barked over his shoulder at Charles and Gamilla. “This girl is tryin’ to tell me something. Who are ya?”

Lennie coughed.

“She’s a maid! A lowly maid!” Ellen yowled.

“Stop it, lass, or you’ll feel the back of my hand!” Johnny bellowed. His voice softened slightly. “Go on, lass. Tell me.”

Lennie looked to Charles and Gamilla.

“Tell him, Miss.” Gamilla said softly, rubbing her bruised face.

“I am told I am the daughter of the Duchess of Fallbridge and one Johnny Donnan.” Lennie said flatly.

Johnny narrowed his eyes. “Who told you this?”

“My…the man whom I thought my father for my entire life. When he died, I was lost. I didn’t want another father. I didn’t want to be the daughter of the Duchess of Fallbridge. I just wanted to disappear. I…”

“Don’t listen!” Ellen howled.

“Tell me more, Lass.” Johnny grunted.

“Then…my maid, my friend, Orpha. She—she told me that she wanted to find employment as a governess and, well, she couldn’t because she was a workhouse girl and not someone with a good family background. She suggested that she could use my name and that if she did, I could take hers and finally get the peace that I craved. I see now that I was wrong. I…”

Johnny turned to Ellen. “What’s your name?”

“Ellen Barrett.” Ellen responded.

“What’s your name?” Johnny shouted.

Ellen’s face froze in a look of defiance.

“Tell me!” Johnny demanded.

“Fine! I’m Orpha Polk.”

“You—you lied to me. Did Finlay know?”

“Later, Sir, yes, he did.” Gamilla spoke up.

“I see.” Johnny nodded.

“He did not have a chance to tell you, Mr. Donnan.” Lennie added. “He only found out a few hours ago.”

“And, now, he’s dead.” Johnny mumbled. He looked to “Ellen.” “Why’d ya do it, then?”

“Why do you think?” Ellen laughed. “I was reared in the workhouse. I worked as a maid. Could I miss a chance to be the sister of the Duke of Fallbridge? Mad as he is, he’s got connections to the Crown and he’s got most of the gold in London. He’s kind and simple and would have made me quite comfortable. I just had to get to him.” She shrugged. “That, actually, was rather enjoyable. I made the acquaintance of many a fine gentleman.”

“No doubt.” Charles whispered to Gamilla.

Johnny clenched his fists.

“Charles and Gamilla have proven to be very kind to me,” Lennie said quickly. “They’re very loyal, kind people and, without them, I’d still be imprisoned by this imposter. All of the Duke’s staff have treated me with great respect. And, truly, Sir, the Duke and his companion are the two kindest, most gentle men I’ve ever known. I’m ashamed of myself for mistrusting the Duke before I ever knew him. I’d be proud to think him my half-brother, and I’m grateful for the protection and sweetness all in this house have shown me. Charles and Gamilla aren’t responsible for Finlay’s death. I never knew the young man, but his passing saddens me, too. He was ill-used by the world, I think. In many ways, in many ways, he was a victim, too. But, all Gamilla wished to do was to show him the error of his ways so that he might live in a way which proved to be healthful, helpful and good.”

Johnny’s eyes became moist. “I’m sure that…I…” He grunted and swallowed. “Charles, I ain’t got a right to ask this, but will ya please take my daughter to her brother and the doctor. You and Gamilla both, please. Leave me here with Orpha Polk.”

“You’re choosing the wrong path.” Ellen barked.

“I’m choosin’ me kin for once!” Johnny hollered.

Charles helped Gamilla to her feet.

“Tell the Duke that I wish to speak with him when I’m done here.” Johnny added.

“Yes.” Charles nodded.

“Perhaps I should stay.” Lennie suggested.

“No, lass.” Johnny shook his head.

“But…”

“Ain’t it queer?” Johnny sighed. “For all this girl done to ya, you still want to see her safe. You remind me of my own ma. She’d a been your grandma.”

Lennie nodded.

“This girl don’t deserve your sympathy.” Johnny shook his head again. “Now, go to the Duke.”

“Yes, Miss.” Charles interjected.

“You’ve not heard the last of me,” “Ellen” snarled.

“Aye, she has, girl.” Johnny smiled. “She has.”





Did you miss Chapters 1-187? If so, you can read them here. Come back tomorrow for Chapter 189 of Mr. Punch of Belgrave Square. 

Unusual Artifacts: Wedding Favors, 1854

Click image to enlarge.
Wedding Favors
England, c. 1854
The Victoria & Albert Museum

The tradition of handing out wedding favors, especially to those who participated in the wedding party, goes back centuries. The origin of this custom is difficult to trace as it is not unique to any one culture.

Some of the most famous wedding favors are those which were presented at the 1840 marriage of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. “The Times” reported that white favors were given out at the lavish nuptials:

Every lady exhibited a white favour, some of which were admirable specimens of refined taste. They were of all sizes, many of white satin riband, tied up into bows and mixed with layers of rich silver lace. Others merely of riband intermixed with sprigs of orange flower blossom.

While the custom of orange blossoms at a wedding pre-dates Victoria’s wedding considerably and actually arose in Asia, the interest in the blooms was rejuvenated after that Royal wedding. After witnessing the gorgeous orange blossoms at Queen Victoria’s wedding, many brides wished to have similar favors and turned to more permanent imitation blossoms.

Take, for example, this pair of wedding favor froms an 1854 union. The orange blossoms on these favors are made of cloth and feature silvered paper leaves and trimmings of cream silk satin ribbon. These items are associated with the wedding of Elizabeth Wroughton Richards to the Reverend Andrew Nugee on August 8, 1854.

Object of the Day: Vegetine: The Great Blood Purifier

I often sit here and wonder about the purity of my blood.

No. No, I don’t. I never think about it. But, apparently, our Victorian forebears spent a great deal of time being very concerned about it. Enter all manner of quackery to ease those worried minds.

Vegetine was touted as a blood purifier. Advertising imagery for the product usually involved hale and hearty looking young people, usually ladies like the one we see here. They’re often set against backgrounds which bring to mind purity, youth, freshness and springtime.

The reverse makes all sorts of claims about Vegetine. I wonder how Lucy Ricardo might deliver some of these lines. Let’s see what they claim:

THE lesson of health is well illustrated in the picture
seen on the opposite side of this card. Nature
supplies the vitality which, coursing through the woody
fibers of the fruit tree, furnishes it with abundant blossoms.
The maiden with laughing eyes and rosy cheeks—a picture
of health—is offering you VEGETINE, the most reliable
vitalizer of the human blood. Nature’s laws are unchange-
able, and certain results are sure to follow certain causes.
If the blood is allowed to remain in an impure condition,
disease will surely follow. With this fact proven by examples
seen on every hand, is it not wise to heed the warning symp-
toms shown by languor, “that tired feeling,” headache,
indigestion, sallow complexion and nervous debility? Re-
sort at once to the use of VEGETINE, NATURE’S GREAT
BLOOD PURIFIER AND VITALIZER. It will give you
pure blood and good health. It is a radical cure, and
will reach the most severe cases of diseases arising from
impurity of the blood. Sufferers from Humors, Canker,
Salt Rheum, Ulcers, Eruptive Diseases of the Skin, Pimples,
Boils, Tetter, and Ringworm are sure to find relief by
The faithful use of VEGETINE.



Tetter? This is apparently a blister, boil, pimple or rash. Or…herpes. Good times.

Salt Rheum? This is essentially Nineteenth-Century Eczema.

Well, it seems our Vegetine is a very handy thing to have around. Too bad that it likely didn’t work since the conditions described have less to do with the blood than they have to do with subcutaneous infection. Still, maybe it had some placebo effect.

In any case, it’s a very pretty card and is a neat example of the 1880s leaning toward Asian design influence.