Mastery of Design: A Cartier Ruby and Diamond Parure, 1954

Necklace, Clip and Earrings of Diamonds, Rubies and Platinum
Cartier, 1954
This and all related images from
The British Museum

Click image to enlarge

Made around 1954, this parure consists of a earrings and a necklace which boasts a detachable clip brooch as the dramatic central element. The group is made of fine Burmese rubies and diamonds set in platinum. They’re the work of Cartier’s London location. The parure is still fitted into its original red leather case. The Cartier name is emblazoned in gold on the lid.

Mastery of Design: A Double Clip Diamond Brooch, 1930-1940

Lady Abingdon's Double Dress Clip Brooch
This and all related images from:
The Victoria & Albert Museum

 

I thought that this double-clip diamond brooch would be the perfect jewel to conclude today’s posts. 

I don’t need to tell you that this was made between 1930 and 1940 during that luscious period when dense concentrations of diamonds and other gemstones were en vogue. The fashion started in the 1920s and is also known for the use of platinum settings which did not intrude on the look of the piece. 

Brooches like this one were quite popular during this period. Not only were they attractive, but they were versatile. And, in a way economical since a lady could get several looks from one piece of jewelry. The brooch can be worn as a whole or it can be divided into two identical halves which were worn as clips. Diamond clips were placed on lapels or opposing one another on the neckline of a gown. 

This example gleams with brilliant-cut, baguette and square-cut diamonds. It was made in England by a now unknown jeweler. It’s part of the beautiful collection of The Bettine, Lady Abingdon in the V&A. 

Other brooches (with a necklace and earrings) from the collection.  We've studied most of these.

Gifts of Grandeur: A Diamond and Platinum Dress Clip by Cartier, 1940

Dress Clip
Cartier, 1940
The Victoria & Albert Museum

Jewelry in the Art Deco style rely on dense groupings of gemstones, especially diamonds, set in discreet platinum settings which seem to retreat in order to give the stones more prominence. Jewels by Cartier were among the most sought-after.

This dress clip by Cartier, created by Ernest Schwaiger in 1940, was so beloved by its creator that he kept the clip in his own collection, giving it to his wife. The clip was later bequeathed to the Victoria & Albert Museum. 

Mastery of Design: A Double Clip Diamond Brooch, 1930-1940

Lady Abingdon's Double Dress Clip Brooch
This and all related images from:
The Victoria & Albert Museum

 

Since we’re looking at stereoscopes and double images today, I thought that this double-clip diamond brooch would be the perfect jewel to conclude today’s posts. 

I don’t need to tell you that this was made between 1930 and 1940 during that luscious period when dense concentrations of diamonds and other gemstones were en vogue. The fashion started in the 1920s and is also known for the use of platinum settings which did not intrude on the look of the piece. 

Brooches like this one were quite popular during this period. Not only were they attractive, but they were versatile. And, in a way economical since a lady could get several looks from one piece of jewelry. The brooch can be worn as a whole or it can be divided into two identical halves which were worn as clips. Diamond clips were placed on lapels or opposing one another on the neckline of a gown. 

This example gleams with brilliant-cut, baguette and square-cut diamonds. It was made in England by a now unknown jeweler. It’s part of the beautiful collection of The Bettine, Lady Abingdon in the V&A. 

Other brooches (with a necklace and earrings) from the collection.  We've studied most of these.

Mastery of Design: A Cartier Dress Clip, 1954

Necklace, Clip and Earrings of Diamonds, Rubies and Platinum
Cartier, 1954
This and all related images from
The British Museum

Made around 1954, this parure consists of a earrings and a necklace which boasts a detachable clip brooch as the dramatic central element. The group is made of fine Burmese rubies and diamonds set in platinum. They’re the work of Cartier’s London location. The parure is still fitted into its original red leather case. The Cartier name is emblazoned in gold on the lid.