History's Runway: “La Fleur” Dress, 1922

"La Fleur"
Lilac Lawn Day Dress
Madeleine Vionnet, 1922
The Cecil Beaton Collection at:
The Victoria & Albert Museum

“Lawn,” a fabric with a fairly plain weave, in the 1920s was likely crafted of linen. These days, most lawn is made of cotton. Regardless, it’s a perfect fabric for a day dress—durable, light and fashionable.

Here, from 1922, we see a gown made of lilac lawn. With a V-neckline, short sleeves and it’s convenient ankle length, the dress would have been suitable for a day in the country or for attending a summer sporting event.

Belted at the waist, the dress is given a hint of springtime style by layered, overlapping scallops attached to a base of tulle. These petal-like scallops and the fresh color evoke an appealing idea of new flowers. This is reinforced by an appliqué motif on each petal which depicts a stylized flowering plant in a decorative pot.

The dress was made in Paris for the design house of Madeleine Vionnet (1876-1975). It was donated to London Society photographer Cecil Beaton to be part of the collection of modern clothing which he was assembling for the V&A in 1972. 

History's Runway: A Victor Steibel Day Dress, 1947

Day Dress
Victor Steibel
1947
This and all related images from:
The Victoria & Albert Museum

With this theatrical day dress, designer Victor Steibel nods to Victorian fashions by attaching an oversized bustle-like bow to the rear of the dress. The dress was made in 1947 as a response to Christian Dior’s “New Look” of pinched waists and full skirts. Steibel wasn’t out to make practical dresses. He wasn’t interested in the continuation of war time rationing. Both of these concepts are evident with this dress and it’s almost comic bow which was so heavy with material that it had to be supported by a hidden horsehair frill beneath the skirts.

South Africa-born Steibel studied fashion at Cambridge and apprenticed with the House of Reville and Rossiter before opening his own couture house in 1932. He became especially known for his use of striped fabrics and his dramatic, yet, feminine evening and day wear.

This very-Steibel striped dress is constructed of silk grosgrain and is given body with net petticoats. It was made for and worn by Lady Cornwallis.