Saturday, September 10, 2011

Saturday Sparkle: The Crouzet Bodice Ornament, 1860-70

Bodice Ornament
1860-1870
French
Designed by Crouzet
The Victoria & Albert Museum
If you had to guess, wouldn’t you think, at first glance at least, that this jewel was much newer than it really is? It dates to 1860-1870, but immediately looks more like a work from the 1940’s. Here, we see an enameled gold bodice ornament in black, set with pearls and brilliant-cut diamonds.

It is designed in the Moroccan manner of the jeweler Crouzet worked for all the major Parisian goldsmiths of the mid-to-late Nineteenth Century, producing jewelry of exceptional quality and innovative design. Crouzet was celebrated for creating pieces in the Moroccan taste.

The particular jewel was probably designed to be worn during mourning, allowing a woman in mourning to add some flare to her wardrobe and also stay current by donning herself with a piece designed in the then-fashionable Middle-Eastern manner.

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