Mastery of Design: A Figural Gold and Diamond Pendant, 1901



Pendant/Locket
Georges van der Straeten
French, 1901
The Victoria & Albert Museum

 As jewelry designs transitioned from the Victorian to the Edwardian and Art Nouveau, jewelers began to experiment with depictions of the human form and ways in which a figure could be stylized and romanticized without being unrecognizable. Carving in precious metals became quite popular and gave rise to new interpretations of idealized female beauty. This figure in gold and adorned with diamonds shows the new vision of the feminine form as a representation of windswept grace and effortless elegance.

This pendant in relief is the work of Georges van der Straeten. Van der Straeten was a sculptor from Ghent whose work led him to Paris where he remained until his death in 1928. The pendant is actually a locket which contains a hidden mirror. It is inscribed on the reverse, “Monte Carlo 13 March 1901” around a sprig of mistletoe. Clearly, this was a token of affection meant to recall a happy time spent in romantic pursuits.