Object of the Day: A Rose Cut Diamond Stickpin

The rose cut diamond is rarely seen anymore outside of antique jewelry. However, this early diamond cut has been used since the Sixteenth Century. A rose cut diamond is so named because of its resemblance to a rosebud.

Looking at a modern brilliant cut diamond, you can see that the stone has a long pointed part underneath. This is called the pavilion which ends in a point called a cullet. The top part of the diamond—which shows in the setting—is called the crown. In a rose cut diamond, there is no pavilion. The stone is flat on the back and is usually set in a mounting lined with silver foil. The silver foil served to reflect light through the stone. Remember, these stones were popular during an era when evenings were lit by candles. A foil back on the stone caught candlelight and reflected it beautifully. The crown of the rose cut diamond is formed of triangular facets which rise to a central point.

This rose cut diamond stickpin dates to the early 1800’s. It is English in origin. We can tell this because the stone is set in 15 karat gold—a British standard. This pin would have secured a gentleman’s cravat or scarf—adding an elegant shimmer at a special event. Diamonds were the stuff of evenings. To wear a diamond during the day was considered gauche. Thankfully, that little social rule has changed.