Sunday Sparkle: A Cameo of St. George, 1815

The Lesser George
The Royal Collection

St. George is one of the great symbols of the United Kingdom. His image—either with or without the dragon that he famously slew—emblazes many a crest and work of art beloved in England. This diamond-encrusted cameo was created in 1815. Signed on the reverse “Caputi” we know that this was the work of famed Italian medalist, Giuseppe Caputi. The cameo was placed in his present setting by the Royal Goldsmiths Rundell, Bridge and Rundell in 1818 according to the inscription on the reverse of the mounting.

The original owner of this brooch was Prince George, Second Duke of Cambridge (though some say it also belonged to his father). It was later given to German Emperor, Wilhelm II. Queen Mary (then the Princess of Wales) saw the emperor wearing the piece and described it as “so fine it should belong to our crown jewels.” The piece was, indeed, reacquired from the heirs of the Emperor and now resides in the Royal Collection.

This truly is a masterwork of both the cameo artist and the goldsmith. The carving of the stone is exquisitely detailed and fully-formed. The setting, too, is a masterpiece, set with beautifully cut diamonds around a fretwork motto HONI SOIT QUI MAL Y PENSE (Shame on him who thinks evil of it).

The motto alone sums up the beauty of the piece. A symbol of both artistry and bravery, this is the sort of work that defines English jewelry-making of the early Nineteenth Century.