Masterpiece of the Week: A Garnet and Diamond Bodice Ornament, 1680-1700

Bodice Ornament
1680-1700
Dutch
Silver, Gold, Garnets and Rose-Cut Diamonds
The Victoria & Albert Museum

During the late Seventeenth Century, upper-crust ladies adorned their gowns with jeweled ornaments which often took the form of flowers or ribbons. This piece, part of an impressive and rare suite is one of the few surviving examples of Seventeenth Century jeweled ribbon work.


A setting of silver and gold contains gorgeous hessonite garnets and rose-cut diamonds arranged to mimic the folds of a real ribbon. Additional detachable pendants create a different look and can be worn independently or as earrings. Made in the Netherlands between 1680 and 1700, this magnificent piece was donated to the V&A by Dame Joan Evans.

Sunday Viewing: East of Eden, 1955

Of the three films in which James Dean starred, 1955’s East of Eden was the only one to be released during his lifetime. He wasn’t even meant to star in the film in the first place. The role of “Cal” was originally offered to Montgomery Clift who, as just one of a series of poor career choices, rejected the offer.

The film is based on the novel of the same name by James Steinbeck, but only loosely—dealing more with the second part of the book than the first. The story, in essence, is an adaptation of the “Cain and Abel” story from the Bible and focuses on the relationships between the “good brother,” Aron, and the “wayward brother,” Cal, their overly religious father and their sinful mother.

Set in central California in 1917, during the First World War, it is the tale of the Trask family who must deal with a changing world, encroaching modernity and the dynamics of their modest farm and their dysfunctional family. Adam Trask (Raymond Massey) rules his sons with a tight grip and is constantly disappointed by Cal (Dean) who he often compares to his brother Aron (the largely forgettable Richard Davalos). Adam also shields his sons from the reality of their mother’s identity, Kate (Jo Van Fleet) who runs a brothel.

As Cal struggles to earn his father’s respect, he only manages to drive the man further away and he must deal with the truths of his life on his own, and later, with the help of his brother’s girlfriend, Abra (Julie Harris).

The film also stars Burl Ives and was written by Paul Osborn with uncredited help from John Steinbeck. Directed by Elia Kazan, the film opened to good reviews and remains in the public memory as a “classic.”

Coming this Week at "Stalking the Belle Époque"

Diamond Hair Pin
The Victoria and Albert Museum

We’ve got jewels, unusual artifacts, exciting cinema, majestic sculptures, luxurious fans, decadent fabrics, sumptuous fashion, glorious paintings and rousing tunes coming this week at Stalking the Belle Époque.


From the glitter of gems to the glitter of the stars, we’ll take a look at the things, people and places which make our world a more beautiful place. Of course, we’ll have a few visits from the Bertie Dog, and Mr. Punch. And, we’re also introducing a new feature, “The Card of the Day” which will give you a glimpse into my collection of antique Royalty-themed cigarette cards.

Glamour and history await you in the coming week of Stalking the Belle Époque.

Toothpick Case
The Victoria & Albert Museum

Reminder: "Punch's Cousin" Will Return on Monday

Last week, in Punch’s Cousin, we saw Arthur finally get the better of Ulrika Rittenhouse. After Arthur and the rather simple-minded Gerard drugged Ulrika, “Artie” was able to find the Molliner Blue Diamond. Realizing that when she came-to, Ulrika would be bent on revenge, Arthur and Gerard decided that the best possible action would be to kill Ulrika. Prepared to smother the red-haired weirdo, they were interrupted by Edward Cage’s butler, Odo, who had come to Ulrika’s room to alert her to the fact that someone was waiting for her at the back door. Odo offered to help Arthur and Gerry murder Ulrika if they’d pay him off. However, the three men met their match when Iolanthe Evangeline came into the room.


Iolanthe had just been released from prison. After convincing her captors that she had not, in fact, murdered The Duke of Fallbridge, Robert Halifax and “Holt” Cage, Iolanthe once again found her freedom though she deserved to be locked up for all of the people she has murdered. Iolanthe was torn between first visiting Ulrika or making her presence known to Julian and Robert.

Meanwhile, Julian had his own problems. As Robert and Marjani arrived at their borrowed mansion, they realized what Barbara and Cecil had already discovered. Julian wasn’t just two different personalities, but three. The third, Mr. Scaramouche, was a strange creature of greed and anger and behaved in ways that Mr. Punch and Julian both found rather shocking. Robert and Marjani managed to give “Julian” a sedative which allowed Punch and Julian some time to deal with Mr. Scaramouche.

Julian emerged and explained to Robert that he was tired. Robert encouraged Julian to be strong and as Julian’s anger swelled, Mr. Scaramouche began to fade. But, will it be enough to totally rid themselves of Scaramouche? We’ll see.

Of course, they’ve got Iolanthe to deal with. Will she wish to see Ulrika murdered? What will she do to Julian? And, what will become of Arthur and Gerard when Iolanthe learns that they have the diamond.

Furthermore, Adrienne and Charles are still waiting at the home of Marjani’s friends with Edward Cage’s stolen child. Edward has not given up his quest to get “his” son back, and he steps up his efforts this week. Similarly, Charles’ brother, the odious Giovanni, has been stabbed by Robert and is in the care of Marie Laveau. Nothing good can come of that.

There’s a lot in store for us this week as Punch’s Cousin continues. I assure you that there will be a lot of explosive action and a major turning point in store for our heroes Punch/Julian and Robert.

Sunday Morning Special: The Smoking Monkey Automaton

Louis Toot
Also known as Joseph Teeny
Fox Broadcasting

By now, you know, of course, that I’m a lover of antiques and history, and you might have noticed that I’m a devoted fan of The Simpsons. I particularly enjoy when my favorite things somehow converge.


When I was looking for the “Sunday Morning Special,” I came across this lovely automaton of a smoking monkey by a French, Nineteenth Century maker. My first thought was, “Oh, it’s an antique Mr. Teeny!” For those who don’t know, Louis “Mr. Teeny” Toot (also known as Joseph Teeny) is Krusty the Clown’s loyal sidekick. With a long and proud lineage, Mr. Teeny finds himself treated in undignified ways by Krusty and deals with his anxiety by chain smoking. It’s also known that Louis is not the first Mr. Teeny as Krusty’s prop room contains a shelf of past Mr. Teenies who remain in his arsenal via taxidermy.

Enjoy this wonderful, ridiculous thing.

Mastery of Design: The Activities of the Farm Toile, 1792

The Victoria & Albert Museum

The term “toile” is a French word which came into the English language in the Sixteenth Century and referred specifically to plain linen or canvas. By the late Eighteenth Centuries, French and English craftsmen were using “toile de jouy,” a phrase which has since been shortened to simply, “toile.” “Toile de juoy” referred to a specific printed linen which depicting very complex scenes (ranging from the pastoral to the courtly) in a bold color (blue, red, green, brown, black, purple) on a light-colored background.

I’ve always been a fan of toile and very much enjoy the look of it because it conveys at once a sense of elegance and casual charm. This particular toile from the Victoria & Albert Museum dates to 1792 and was printed from a copperplate designed by Jean-Baptiste Huet, manufactured by the firm Oberkampf. With its detailed scenes of “the activities of the farm” depciting idealized peasant women and their pets on a background of antique structures comes from fragments from the collection of Madame Mayoux, a Parisian gallery owner and collector, who donated the scraps to the V&A in 1919. It’s quite gorgeous, isn’t it?

Toile de Jouy is still manufactured today in a variety of colors and with a wide array of scenes and themes. The addition of toile works for any room in your home and is an excellent way to inject elegance into any space.

Object of the Day: Museum Edition: A Medieval Sapphire Ring, 1250-1300

Ring
Engraved Gold and Cabochon Sapphire
1250-1300
Possibly English or French
The Victoria & Albert Museum

The human fascination with gemstones has thrived for thousands of years. In the middle ages, gems were cherished not only for their inherent value, but for their talismanic properties. Sapphires were most especially coveted. They were considered quite exotic—coming mostly from Sri Lanka, and were, therefore assigned great monetary value. However, they were also assigned significant spiritual powers which made them all the more desirable.


Sapphires were considered as contributors to peace, reconciliation and chastity. Furthermore, the wearer of a sapphire was said to have a clearer communication with God who would be more inclined to hear the wearer’s prayers more favorably.

The Victoria & Albert Museum

Jewelers options were limited. The tools available in the medieval period didn’t allow for intricate facets and cuts on gemstones. Stones such as rubies and sapphires were not faceted, but rather polished into shining cabochons, usually of irregular shapes.

This ring from the collection of the Victoria & Albert Museum in London dates to between 1250 and 1300 and shows the predominant trend of jewels of the era. The sapphire has been polished into a cabochon and secured to the ring in a thick claw setting. The setting is mounted at quite a height. Though it seems ridiculous to modern eyes, this tall setting allowed for more light to enter the stone. The ring itself is crafted from engraved gold with the kind of foliate pattern which appealed to medieval sensibilities. This was the stuff of the very wealthy and, unfortunately, very few pieces of jewelry from this time period survive.