Gifts of Grandeur: The Opal Heart, 1875

Brooch of opal, demantoid garnet and diamonds, c. 1875
The Victoria & Albert Museum

A symbol of love, this heart-shaped brooch would have been a suitable gift of affection. In the mid-Nineteenth Century, such symbols were considered appropriate gifts during a courtship. Jewels in the shape of hearts, cupids, flowers, hands, anchors, knots, birds, or musical instruments each had special meanings, but ultimately conveyed a romantic interest, just as they do today.

This lovely piece is crafted in gold with opal, tsavorite or green demantoid garnets and diamonds. It’s provenance is unknown, but it has been speculated as having been made in the U.S. or, possible, Central Europe. 

Mastery of Design: A Brooch of Demantoid Garnet, Freshwater Pearls, Gold and Diamonds, 1900

Brooch
Demantoid Garnet (Tsavorite), Pearls, Diamonds, Gold
United States, 1900
The Victoria & Albert Museum

This piece of jewelry was created in the United States around 1900. While English, French and Italian jewelers were more comfortable revisiting the styles of the Rococo and looking forward with abandon to the curves and scrolls of the Art Nouveau, American jewelers were markedly more cautious, knowing that American buyers were more interested in the traditional than the daring. This scrolled brooch of gold combines rococo elements with the sinuous curves of Art Nouveau. It’s a daring design for sale in the American market of the early Twentieth Century where, in the 1901 Jewlers’ Circular and Horological Review, a reviewer commented that some pieces of Art Nouveau jewelry were "more fitted for the case of the collector than for wear…"

What Americans did appreciate was the use of brightly colored gemstones. The use of green demantiod garnets (similar in color to tsavorites, but of a different chemical structure) would have scored points with American buyers, especially when combined with these luxurious pearls and beautiful diamonds.

Gifts of Grandeur: The Opal Heart, 1875

Brooch of opal, demantoid garnet and diamonds, c. 1875
The Victoria & Albert Museum

A symbol of love, this heart-shaped brooch would have been a suitable gift of affection. In the mid-Nineteenth Century, such symbols were considered appropriate gifts during a courtship. Jewels in the shape of hearts, cupids, flowers, hands, anchors, knots, birds, or musical instruments each had special meanings, but ultimately conveyed a romantic interest, just as they do today.

This lovely piece is crafted in gold with opal, tsavorite or green demantoid garnets and diamonds. It’s provenance is unknown, but it has been speculated as having been made in the U.S. or, possible, Central Europe.

Gifts of Grandeur: The Convolvulus Trembler Ornament, 1840-1850

Brooch
The Victoria & Albert Museum

This shimmering composition of foiled rock crystals, pearls and garnets set in enameled gold started out its life as a head ornament in the mid Nineteenth Century. In the Twentieth Century, it was converted into a brooch, and, in doing so, was considerably cut down with the excess being incorporated into other pieces of jewelry. This is what remains, and though it’s not complete, we can see what it once was and how much it relies on the trend toward Naturalism which prevailed at the time of its creation.

This piece is a trembler—featuring jewels on springs and coils which allowed the stones to move and capture the light as the wearer walked. Such Naturalistic gems almost always boasted compositions of fruit and flowers such as this ornament’s depiction of convolvulus and lilies of the valley. The flowers are created from foil-backed (to offer additional shine) clear and purple quartz with green garnets (tsavorite) and pearls.

Such jewels had a romantic significance and were given as gifts in order to convey symbolic messages. In The Language of Flowers, first published by one Mrs. Burke in 1856, the lily of the valley signified a return of happiness, and the convolvulus could represent the bonds among other things.

Saturday Sparkle: A Brooch of Demantoid Garnet, Freshwater Pearls, Gold and Diamonds, 1900

Brooch
Demantoid Garnet (Tsavorite), Pearls, Diamonds, Gold
United States, 1900
The Victoria & Albert Museum

This piece of jewelry was created in the United States around 1900. While English, French and Italian jewelers were more comfortable revisiting the styles of the Rococo and looking forward with abandon to the curves and scrolls of the Art Nouveau, American jewelers were markedly more cautious, knowing that American buyers were more interested in the traditional than the daring. This scrolled brooch of gold combines rococo elements with the sinuous curves of Art Nouveau. It’s a daring design for sale in the American market of the early Twentieth Century where, in the 1901 Jewlers’ Circular and Horological Review, a reviewer commented that some pieces of Art Nouveau jewelry were "more fitted for the case of the collector than for wear…"

What Americans did appreciate was the use of brightly colored gemstones. The use of green demantiod garnets (basically tsavorites) would have scored points with American buyers, especially when combined with these luxurious pearls and beautiful diamonds.

Object of the Day: An Antique Tsavorite Stickpin

Though modern gemologists are quick to grab for credit in the discovery of Tsavorite, the gemstone has been in use for centuries. This exceptionally clear green stone was named in the 1960’s. Prior to this, it was called “green garnet” which is actually an appropriate name for the stone since that’s exactly what it is. Green garnet comes in a wide range of hues and saturations from a bright, grassy green to a deep, almost-black green.


Tsavorite was popular with Victorian jewelers who appreciated the brilliant color and clarity of the gem. It was sometimes used in pieces with other gemstones such as diamonds, rubies and amethysts to create intricate, naturally-inspired patterns and designs. However, more often than not, the stone was set by itself, allowing its beauty to shine independently.

This antique stickpin dates to the late Nineteenth Century and features a large, oval Tsavorite set in fifteen karat gold. Solitaire stones where often employed as the centerpiece of a gentleman’s stickpin. An attractive faceted stone was the perfect complement to any wardrobe.

Object of the Day: An Antique Tsavorite Stickpin

During Queen Victoria’s reign, in England, the garnet reached the height of its popularity as a gem stone. Jewelry designers looked for new and exciting ways to include garnets in their art. Aside from the traditional deep red garnet, green garnet (called Tsavorite) was frequently used—especially in jewelry for gentlemen.


Set in the British standard (of the time) of 15 karat gold, this stickpin features a large Tsavorite surrounded by a wreath of silvery seed pearls. With its understated elegance and cool, emerald-like sparkle, this stickpin would have been worn during the day to hold a gentleman’s cravat as he went about his daily business.

I do believe I’m going to start a campaign to reintroduce cravats and neck scarves into men’s wardrobes. European men wear scarves. I don’t see any reason why American men can’t, too.