Mastery of Design: The Castellani Diadem, 1860

Diadem
Castellani, c. 1860
The Victoria & Albert Museum

The Italian jewelry firm of Castellani made this diadem around 1860 based on an Etruscan original which dated to about 300 B.C. The original is the Campana Collection in the Louvre.

This tiara was copied four more times with each of the copies remaining in private collections. This one was shown at the International Exhibition in London in 1862. There, the works of Castellani garnered much attention and acclaim. So many flocked to the Castellani exhibit, in fact, that a policeman was stationed outside of the display to control the crowds. Certainly, the diadem was the centerpiece of the group.

The piece is made of gold with open floral-work. It is set with pearls, and beads and features enameled, serrated leaves and beaded blue berries. 

After a Fashion: A French Beadwork Purse, 1780-1800

Beadwork Purse
Unknown French Workshop, 1780-1800
The Victoria & Albert Museum

The European love of beadwork rose in the Seventeenth Century, and by the Eighteenth Century, this expensive technique became available to a wider audience as many workshops in England, Italy and France produced small items glistening with glass beads. In France, the medium was often found on delicate purses. French workshops produced some of the finest multi-colored beadwork in Europe during this period. These French craftsmen used beads in conjunction with other techniques, to highlight parts of an embroidered pattern. The most expensive examples were made with a single bead for every stitch, producing a dense beaded surface.

This purse is an excellent representation of the fine beadwork produced in France in the Eighteenth Century. It depicts a figure of a woman in a garden, leaning on a plinth with a rolled parasol in her right hand and a small dog at her feet. The purse was made in four sections, each bearing an allegorical figure, one representing Justice, with finish-work of pink silk cords and tassels. It was made between 1780 and 1800.

Object of the Day, Museum Edition: The Castellani Diadem, 1860

Diadem
Castellani, c. 1860
The Victoria & Albert Museum

The Italian jewelry firm of Castellani made this diadem around 1860 based on an Etruscan original which dated to about 300 B.C. The original is the Campana Collection in the Louvre.

This tiara was copied four more times with each of the copies remaining in private collections. This one was shown at the International Exhibition in London in 1862. There, the works of Castellani garnered much attention and acclaim. So many flocked to the Castellani exhibit, in fact, that a policeman was stationed outside of the display to control the crowds. Certainly, the diadem was the centerpiece of the group.

The piece is made of gold with open floral-work. It is set with pearls, and beads and features enameled, serrated leaves and beaded blue berries. 

History's Runway: An Embroidered and Beaded Silk Tea Gown, 1900

Tea Gown, 1900
The Victoria & Albert Museum

This frothy frock is a tea gown of ivory woven silk damask embroidered with glass, metal thread and beads. It is decorated with chain-stitch embroidered net and a long pleat of lace which drops from the neck to the hem in a style known as the “Watteau pleat.”

Tea gowns were developed in the 1870s as easy, comfortable dresses which were appropriate for a woman to wear for tea with family and friends in the home. However, as things often do, they became increasingly elaborate and fitted as time went on. By the 1890s tea gowns showcased exotic fabrics and threads and were worn for public appearances, such as dinner parties.

The gown we see here is a combination of influences and materials. The embroidered front panel of this gown was made in India for export as it was designed to appeal to European taste.

Object of the Day, Museum Edition: A French Beadwork Purse, 1780-1800

Beadwork Purse
Unknown French Workshop, 1780-1800
The Victoria & Albert Museum

Good morning, all!  I have a confession to make.  I'm having another busy week which is pulling me in many different directions.  I had planned a special theme for today and to unveil our most exceptional "Treat of the Week," but I've not had a chance to prepare those articles properly yet.  So, we're going to switch days and today, you get beads!  Beads, beads and more beads!

Tomorrow, comes my promised special features AND a Gratuitous Bertie Dog Picture.  But, for now...beads!  Carry on, then...

The European love of beadwork rose in the Seventeenth Century, and by the Eighteenth Century, this expensive technique became available to a wider audience as many workshops in England, Italy and France produced small items glistening with glass beads. In France, the medium was often found on delicate purses. French workshops produced some of the finest multi-colored beadwork in Europe during this period. These French craftsmen used beads in conjunction with other techniques, to highlight parts of an embroidered pattern. The most expensive examples were made with a single bead for every stitch, producing a dense beaded surface.

This purse is an excellent representation of the fine beadwork produced in France in the Eighteenth Century. It depicts a figure of a woman in a garden, leaning on a plinth with a rolled parasol in her right hand and a small dog at her feet. The purse was made in four sections, each bearing an allegorical figure, one representing Justice, with finish-work of pink silk cords and tassels. It was made between 1780 and 1800.

Mastery of Design: The Castellani Diadem, 1860

Diadem
Castellani, c. 1860
The Victoria & Albert Museum

The Italian jewelry firm of Castellani made this diadem around 1860 based on an Etruscan original which dated to about 300 B.C. The original is the Campana Collection in the Louvre.

This tiara was copied four more times with each of the copies remaining in private collections. This one was shown at the International Exhibition in London in 1862. There, the works of Castellani garnered much attention and acclaim. So many flocked to the Castellani exhibit, in fact, that a policeman was stationed outside of the display to control the crowds. Certainly, the diadem was the centerpiece of the group.

The piece is made of gold with open floral-work. It is set with pearls, and beads and features enameled, serrated leaves and beaded blue berries. 

Mastery of Design: A Middle Eastern Garnet Necklace, 1st C.

Necklace
The British Museum

A necklace of turquoise, gold and garnets, this piece was excavated in the Middle East and dates to the First Century. The piece was restrung in the Nineteenth Century at which time gold glass beads were added. The positioning of the pendants, as noted in a 1968 inventory of the British Museum, may have been changed at the time of the re-stringing. 

Mastery of Design: The Ladakh Necklace, 1800-1850

Necklace
Ladakh, 1800-1850
The Victoria & Albert Museum

This necklace of coral and turquoise beads is punctuated with silver spacers. Made in Ladakh, the fringe design echoes Indian fashion design of the early to mid-Nineteenth Century. The work of an unknown jeweler, it’s likely that this necklace was made for export as it is made in the color scheme which was enjoying the utmost popularity throughout Europe at the time.