Mastery of Design: A Portrait Ring of Nicholas I, 1833

Portrait Ring of Nicholas I, Emperior of Russia
Ivan Winberg, 1833
Miniature of Watercolor on Ivory
Gold, Diamonds, Enamel
The Royal Collection

This magnificent ring dates to 1833 and is attributed to the painter Ivan Winberg. Here, we have a miniature portrait of Emperor Nicholas I of Russia set behind a flat-cut diamond. The watercolor on ivory miniature is set in a ring of enamel, diamonds, and gold. The portrait is surmounted by a diamond-set imperial crown. The shoulders of the ring are flanked with enameled, double-headed eagles of Russia.


I don’t suppose it will come as a shock to anyone at this point that this ring came into the Royal Collection via Queen Mary (of Teck). How she got it, I don’t know. But, she got it—as one does.

Crown Copyright
The Royal Collection
via The Royal Collection Trust
Image Courtesy of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II

Click image to enlarge.

Gifts of Grandeur: The Steel Vine Brooch, 1820

Cast Iron Brooch
German, 1820
The Victoria & Albert Museum

The vine leaf motif  of this attractive brooch was originally designed by Johnn Conrad Geiss who was the first designer to use both classical and gothic motifs on the same piece of jewelry.

When this brooch was made in 1820, cast-iron jewelry was an inexpensive but fashionable novelty. The style developed in Germany in 1806–7, mostly to be worn during mourning,.  Soon, however, cast-iron pieces became the symbol of Prussian patriotism and resistance to Napoleon I in the Prussian War of Liberation fought from 1813-15.  During the War of Liberation, women donated their gold jewelry to their country in exchange for iron inscribed “I gave gold for iron.”