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| Gown of red silk chiffon, 1953 The Victoria & Albert Museum |
Designed by Jean Dessès, this stunning gown of red silk chiffon features the
designers virtuoso pleating technique. Dessès’ fascination with classical garments
and the draped form culminated in extraordinary gowns like this one and gave Dessès
a reputation for being a technical genius.
The
intricate pleating for which Dessès was known is demonstrated across the bodice. Dessès used this technique for both early
evening dresses and formal gowns. Let’s examine it. Although the bodice appears to be soft and
unstructured, it is, in fact, actually supported by the sewn-in boning which
was very common at the time. Dessès' work was defined by a subtle palette of
creams, beiges and pale pinks, but he later introduced vibrant reds as in this
example.
This gown was made in 1953--the year of the Coronation of Queen Elizabeth II--for Opal Holt—a Canadian-born socialite who made a home in America. Holt traveled extensively between the wars and was in the first plane to land in Bali. She became as known for her gorgeous and frivolous clothes—most of which she bought in Paris—as she was for her many husbands.
This gown was made in 1953--the year of the Coronation of Queen Elizabeth II--for Opal Holt—a Canadian-born socialite who made a home in America. Holt traveled extensively between the wars and was in the first plane to land in Bali. She became as known for her gorgeous and frivolous clothes—most of which she bought in Paris—as she was for her many husbands.
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