Wednesday, October 17, 2012

Figure of the Day: Beltrame and Columbine, 1740

Beltrame and Columbine
Meissen, c. 1740
The Victoria & Albert Museum



Made in 1740, this figure group was manufactured by the Meissen Porcelain Factory and was modeled by my favorite Meissen modeler, Johann Joachim Kändler (1706 -1775). The group of hard-paste porcelain depicts the “Spanish Lovers,” Beltrame and Columbine. Both are dressed in the theatrical style which was favored by modelers of the time. Rococo flowers adorn the base.


Painting of the Day: Portrait of a Lady known as Smeralda Bandinelli, 1470-1480

Smeralda Bandinelli
Sandro Botticelli, 1470-1480
The Victoria & Albert Museum


Sandro Botticelli (1444/5-1510), a student of Fra Filippo Lippi, worked in Florence under the patronage of the Medici, and later in Rome for Pope Sixtus IV. There, he joined Ghirlandaio and Rosselli in adorning the walls of the Sistine Chapel around 1481.

By 1490, Botticelli had worn himself out. His style had changed as he had undergone a series of personal crises. His work became unpopular and, by 1510, he was in poor health, dying in poverty—a sad end for one of the period’s most celebrated painters. His early portrait work is particularly notable.

Take this portrait, for example. The sitter was Smeralda Bandinelli, the wife of Viviano Bandinelli and the grandmother of the sculptor Baccio Bandinelli. For all of its implied formality, this is actually a rather casual portrait. Smeralda is depicted in a light summer costume—the sort she’d have worn around the house. Draped and red and white silk, she looks cool and comfortable against a homey backdrop. Painted in Florence, the portrait of tempera on panel dates between 1470 and 1480. Smeralda, by the way, is thought by some to be the face of Botticelli’s famous “Primavera.”

Print of the Day: Loose Talk Can Cost Lives, 1942

Poster
Falter, 1942
The Victoria & Albert Museum




American and British servicemen faced a common problem during the Second World War—“good time girls.” These vixens in their seductive sweaters with their flowing hair, red fingernails, painted lips and flashy baubles were thought to be on the prowl to snare innocent men and shake them down for military secrets.

To be sure, there were a variety of female spies who did, in fact, seduce servicemen into sharing confidential information. However, most of these girls were more interested in making some money than they were in selling intelligence to the Nazis. Nevertheless, men were warned to keep their mouths closed and not get trapped by these “good time girls.” Many a propaganda poster warned against them. Here’s one.

This one was printed in America and depicts such a temptress. She’s the picture of seduction, in fact. She’s even taller and stronger than the soldier who has fallen into her embrace. She’s got him and she aims to corrupt him, and, then go straight to Hitler with whom she’ll laugh while tossing her blonde curls over her broad shoulders.

The poster warns is “Sailor beware.” Still, we can’t be quite sure if he’s pushing her away or returning her so-called “affection.”

The point was…this could be you. Well, not me. But, maybe one of the rest of you. An inscription in black on pale blue at the bottom states: “Loose Talk Can Cost Lives.” Well, we can’t argue that. 

The poster was designed in 1942 by John Falter (1910-1982) for the British and American Ambulance Corps.

Mr. Punch of Belgrave Square, Chapter 166


Chapter 166:
Another Stone on Your Grave 



“Don’t be shy,” Mr. Punch said as he and Dr. Halifax escorted Lennie into the bedchamber in which the entire staff had huddled.

Gamilla squinted at the woman. She resembled Miss Barrett to a certain degree and, instantly, for this reason, Gamilla distrusted her.

Ethel, Jenny, Georgie and Mrs. Pepper exchanged glances, but Mrs. Pepper soon became distracted when Colin, who was cradled in her arms, began to stir. Mrs. Pepper wondered if the baby would start crying, but he didn’t. Instead, he simply opened his eyes as if he too wanted to investigate this newcomer.

Even Dog Toby was curious. From beneath Georgie’s chair, the terrier strained to see the woman, perking up his ears in anticipation of her voice.

“Since everyone in here seems to know I’m Mr. Punch and that I don’t always speak like a Duke ought to, I’m just gonna talk the way I normally do.” The Duke began. “Unless anyone minds…”

“We like when you talk like the rest of us.” Ethel said quietly, unsure if she should speak to the Duke of Fallbridge so personally. “Makes you that more our…” She paused, fearing she’d gone too far.

“Friend?” Mr. Punch smiled. “I hope that’s how you all see me. Me and Dr. Halifax both.”

“Yes, Your Grace.” Many of them responded in unison.

“Charlie,” Georgie whispered, “who is the woman?”

“Just listen…” Charles replied quietly.

“Now,” Punch continued. “We had a rough time of it, these last few hours. Ain’t we?”

The staff murmured their agreement.

Robert spoke up. “Not only have we lost Mrs. North, and seen the Countess Hamish killed, but we’ve all—each in our own way—been tortured by the woman who called herself Ellen Barrett and this worm…” He pointed to Finlay who was still tied up on the floor near the hearth. “Furthermore, His Grace has been told that the awful woman who seems to have led this campaign of torture is his half sister.”

“She was my sister, too!” Finlay howled. “My poor, dead sister!”

“Shut yer gob, ya scum!” Mr. Punch snapped. “If you say another word, I’ll crush your skull under me boot and feed the stuff inside to the fish in the loch!”

Lennie—who until that moment had been eerily quiet, almost to the point of not breathing—gasped loudly.

“He won’t really,” Robert whispered to Lennie.

With trembling fingers, Lennie rubbed her eyes.

Ethel chuckled. “We were gonna make him into a curry.”

“Quiet, girl.” Mrs. Pepper snapped.

“Well, we were.” Ethel giggled.

Mrs. Pepper smiled. “We did talk about it, then.”

Mr. Punch laughed. However, this proved to be too much for Lennie who started to back out of the room.

Robert gently took her elbow in his hand. “No, no. They don’t mean it.”

“You can’t go runnin’ out now.” Mr. Punch said softly.

“I do want to tell all of you how proud His Grace and I are of you. You’ve rallied together, truly as a family, and shown your support not only to each other, but to His Grace and myself.” Robert said to the group.

“It’s all been a bit confusin’, it has. And, I know we’re all tired and sick with sadness. Some of us is hurt—like our Gerard and poor Speaight there. But, I want ya all to know that Dr. Halifax and I are gonna see to it that you’re all safe and well. We’ll soon get our household sorted out again and shortly we’ll return to Belgrave Square and carry on, we will. We’ll dispatch the evil from our midst…” He looked to Finlay. “And see to it that them what made us hurt and gave us fright will see the punishment what they deserve.”

Mr. Punch paused and, over his shoulder, nodded at Lennie—indicating that she should step forward. She did, hesitantly.

“I know you’re all wonderin’ who this lady is.” Mr. Punch took a deep breath. “I wondered myself not just a few moments ago. She were discovered by Charles and Violet when they was carried off. Seems that this lady is a victim of the same evil what we been dealin’ with.”

“Oh…” Ethel said quickly. “Poor dear.”

“This lady has been deceived and tortured, too. I won’t be able to ‘xplain all of what she’s suffered. She’ll be able to tell us all that herself, in time. But, I can tell you who she is as she’s told me. I believe what she says. Somethin’ I can see in her eyes tells me it’s true.”

Robert nodded. “I, too, believe her claims.”

“Chum,” Punch sighed. “Maybe you can tell it better than I.”

“I’ll try.” Robert nodded. “You see, the woman who lived in our home and cared for our son was not who she claimed to be. She told us that she was Ellen Barrett.”

Finlay looked up from the floor, puzzled.

Robert continued. “She told this to Finlay, too. She claimed that she was the…” Robert cleared his throat. “The offspring of the Duchess of Fallbridge and Johnny Donnan. She was not. Her true name was Orpha Polk. Is that correct?” He looked to Lennie who nodded. “That terrible woman deceived many people and used the identity of the woman who stands before you now.”

“No.” Finlay barked.

“Skull. Boot. Fish.” Mr. Punch warned.

“The woman here with us is the true Ellen Barrett. She is the Duke’s sister. And, it seems, Finlay’s as well.”

“You’re lyin’!” Finlay shouted, struggling against his bonds. “Don’t ya think I’d know my own sister?”

“No.” Mr. Punch replied. “The resemblance between the two women is striking, yes? Furthermore, Finlay, you were ready to believe Miss Polk because of one thing and one thing only. Greed. Anything that would have gotten ya a more comfortable life seemed well to you.”

“That’ll be enough from you, Finlay. You’ll have your chance to speak momentarily. Now that you realize that you, too, have been fooled, perhaps your loyalty to your accomplice will wane.” Robert said firmly. “I trust you’ll be upfront with us now and help us put our household back to rights. If you do, you’ll find that His Grace and I are capable of much leniency. If you don’t…well…”

Finlay grunted, but remained silent.

“So…” Ethel spoke up. “Miss, you’re really Miss Barrett?”

Lennie nodded. “I am.”

“But, we can’t call ya Miss Barrett, miss. Not with the way we feel ‘bout the name.” Ethel replied.

Mrs. Pepper considered reprimanding the girl, but she concluded that Ethel had a good point.

“I think it best that we refer to our newfound friend as Miss Lennie.” Robert suggested.

“Will Miss Lennie be Master Colin’s governess now?” Georgie asked.

“No.” Mr. Punch said quickly. “The only nurse for Colin is Gamilla. If she’ll agree to it.”

Finally, Gamilla smiled. “Of course I will, Your Grace. You know I will.”

“I’m glad.” Punch smiled. “Miss Lennie is not here to work in our household. She’s not to take up where the imposter left off. No. Miss Lennie is a free person who shall do as she pleases. I know that Dr. Halifax and I…and all of you…would be happy to welcome her into our home. Colin’s got the best nurse in the world, but what he don’t have is an auntie. The boy’s got two papas, but no auntie and I know he’d like to have an auntie. And, I’d like to be able to get to know me half-sister. But, Miss Lennie can do as she pleased. We will help her rebuild her life and see that she’s always comfortable in whatever path she so chooses.” He smiled at Lennie. “You’re welcome to stay here at Grange Molliner. You may take up residence at Fallbridge Hall in Yorkshire or you may return with us to London and live at No. 65 Belgrave Square with me, your nephew and me companion. Or…if you prefer, we can find you a new house all your own. We’ve time to decide that. Just know that you’re welcome.”

“Thank you.” Lennie replied quietly.

“First, however, we’ve many questions what need answerin’.” Mr. Punch growled at Finlay. “And, you’re gonna answer ‘em—not just for me, but for all the folk in this household what been harmed by ya. And when we’re satisfied we understand and know who needs to be accountable for what, we’ll bury our dead and carry on with the business of livin’.”

“Untie me first.” Finlay pleaded.

“No.” Punch shook his head.

“I’m just as much of a victim as you in all of this.” Finlay begged.

“No you ain’t!” Mr. Punch spat.

“That woman deceived me as much as she did all of you.”

“Maybe so.” Punch growled. “But, we didn’t act out in wickedness for it.”

“You killed the woman. Murder is wicked, Your Grace.” Finlay hissed.

“I was protectin’ my household.” Punch glared. “From you and the likes of you. I admit to my wickedness, but at least mine weren’t for sport like yours was.”

“Finlay, you may continue to argue, if you wish.” Robert interrupted. “However, you should know that each moment you waste is another stone on your grave.”

“Fine,” Finlay grunted. “I’ll tell you all I know.”

“Wise choice.” Robert nodded.

“Where do I start?” Finlay asked.

“The day you first met the woman what claimed she was your sister.” Punch narrowed his eyes. “And, what led you to bathe my house in blood.”



Did you miss Chapters 1-165 of Mr. Punch of Belgrave Square? If so, you can read them here. Come back tomorrow for Chapter 167.

History's Runway: A Balenciaga “Balloon” Evening Dress, 1950

Balloon Gown
Balenciaga, 1953-1954
This and all related images from:
The Victoria & Albert Museum



In the 1950s, high society ladies were intrigued with the designs of Cristóbal Balenciaga (1895-1972) who offered up a collection of sumptuous and theatrical evening gowns of silk taffeta which were inspired by dramatic drapery and flounces.

Here’s one of them. Designed by Balenciaga in Paris between 1953 and 1954, this gown of cerise silk taffeta features a bouffant back which offers an extravagant contrast to the simple lines of the v-neck front of the sleeveless sheath. A slit at the center of the tapered, narrow skirt allows the wearer a greater range of motion.

The back of the dress is composed of swathed flounces over doubled tiers of triangularly-cut taffeta. These layers are wired to help them retain their shape even after the wearer has been sitting.

Lined with chiffon, the dress fastens with a metal zip and a row of covered buttons at the reverse of the boned and padded bodice.

Balenciaga nicknamed this gown the “Balloon Dress.” It’s one of two which were made that season. The other is crafted of pale blue silk taffeta. This style nodded at the scale and extravagance of historical dress while keeping a modern silhouette and demonstrated a penchant for Nineteenth-Century designs which Balenciaga shared with Dior. By the 1960s, however, Balenciaga had transitioned to simpler designs.






Object of the Day: James Pyle's Pearline

Click on image to have a busy day.



Ah, Pyle’s Pearline. This isn’t our first glimpse into the wonderful world of Pearline. The creation of James “Everybody loves a Stigmata” Pyle, Pearline purports to possess “peculiar purifying properties” and other claims of consonance aiming at alliteration.

It was soap. Washing soap. Washing soap created by a fellow with an vague association with chronic-bleeder Padre Pio. It claimed to be God’s gift to women—rather making it the Hasselhoff of soaps. I wonder if it worked on those pesky stigmata blood stains.

This nifty little trade card, copyrighted for 1892, features, on the obverse, a chromolithograph commissioned specifically for our pure pals at Pyle’s Pearline. A little girl clad in a bright scarlet gown carries cleaning implements which are clearly too large for her. Either this is another case of the famous Victorian tendency to ignore natural proportions in advertising imagery or she’s about three years old and has been hired as a scullery maid. Either option is likely. I’m not sure why she’s dressed so regally. A red dress was neither typical for maid nor toddler and her lovely head-wrap belies both her age and station. She looks miserable, and, clearly has rubella or some other type of disease which has made her cheeks flushed. The image attempts to make light of all of this by inscribing a fanciful title beneath her. “My Busy Day.”

The reverse shows us the rather sinister-looking package design.

It reminds us:

Front of every pack-
age of Pearline should
be exactly like this
cut, or it is an imita-
tion. 


We are further reminded that “Pearline Washing Compound, the Great Invention for Saving Toil & Expense Without Injury to the Texture, Color or Hands” was made in New York. And:

DON’T use an imitation of
anything, much less
an imitation of Pyle’s Pearline.
Peddlers and some unscrupulous
grocers will tell you the stuff they
offer is “Pearline,” “same as Pear-
line, “or as good as Pearline.” IT’S
FALSE; Pearline is the Original
Washing Compound—has no rival—
no equal—never peddled—given no
prizes—but stands on the foundation
on which it was reared—MERIT.


The card was printed by the Knapp Co. of New York. Their claims are rather comforting. As long as you use the REAL Pearline, your child labor will be just fine.



Tuesday, October 16, 2012

Mastery of Design: The Love-in-a-Mist Necklace, 1910

Love in a Mist
Arthur and Georgie Gaskin
England, 1910
The Victoria & Albert Museum



Husband and wife illustrators Arthur and Georgie Gaskin turned their combined attention to jewelry design in 1899. At the time, their home town of Birmingham was the center of England’s jewelry trade. The Gaskins were proponents of the Arts and Crafts Movement and created all of their pieces by hand as the movement dictated. Georgie created the designs while Arthur did the enameling. The remainder of the work was handled by assistants.

This necklace shows their beautiful work quite nicely. A work of enameled silver, the necklace is called “Love-in-a-Mist” because of the frothy pearls and drops which are set upon the framework of silver. The Gaskins made this piece around 1910.