Monday, February 6, 2012

Gifts of Grandeur: The Countess Harley Teleki Heart Brooch, 1610-20

Brooch of gold, enamel, rubies, diamonds and emeralds, 1610-20
The Victoria & Albert Museum



A brooch such as this would have been given as a token of love. Made between 1610 and 1620, it features a design of a heart pierced by arrows—a reference to Cupid which was widely used from the Renaissance onward. This jeweled brooch is also a locket which was probably made in Prague, in a workshop of the Imperial Habsburg court.

The piece is crafted of enameled gold, set with table-cut diamonds, rubies and emeralds. The emeralds are unique in that they are centrally bezel-set with small cabochon rubies.  In the center, a ruby is set within a heart-shaped gold frame and pierced by two arrows. The locket in the reverse of the jewel contains the miniature portrait in enamel of an unknown man behind a wee door which has been enamelled with red roses. The piece was once in the collection of the Countess Harley Teleki.

Mastery of Design: The Dame Joan Evans Signet Ring, 1652

Signet Ring, 1652
The Victoria & Albert Museum



A carnelian intaglio forms the centerpiece of this signet ring which is part of the celebrated jewelry collection of Dame Joan Evans. This gold signet ring features an oval bezel with a decorative. scalloped edge. Crafted in England in 1652, the intaglio bears with the arms of the House of Rushe, engraved behind with a skull and inscribed “I/ R/ Obijt Sep. t/ 13th .52. etat.63.”

History's Runway: The Vignon Magenta Gown, 1869-70

Gown by Madame Vignon, 1869-70
The Victoria & Albert Museum



A rich gown of vivid magenta-colored silk, this beautiful ensemble was dyed with one of the new synthetic colors which were produced from the late 1850s onwards. These dyes offered hues which were difficult to achieve with natural pigments and introduced unusual colors into daily wear.

During this period, magenta became an extremely popular color, and soon, a battle for a patent on the color arose. Combating companies often claimed better colorfastness while others suggested that their competitors dyes were unhealthy. The latter claim proved true when, in the 1870s, a German chemist found traces of arsenic in fabric dyed with magenta. The arsenic could leak out in washing, rain or perspiration and was known to cause serious skin conditions.

With the rise in brightly colored fabrics, there was also a rise in advice as to how to wear them. “The Englishwoman’s Domestic Magazine” of March 1868 suggested that there should be no more than “two positive colours in a lady's toilet” and that “very bright tints” should be toned down with white, black or grey to prevent a gaudy appearance.

Many ladies preferred to wear bright colors with a deeper shade of the same hue. This gown from c. 1869 is an excellent example of this trend. This example by the famed couturier Madame Vignon features satin bows and pleated bias-cut trimmings on ribbed silk . Madame Vignon was known for her ability to use a bright color such as this, all the while keeping it soft and feminine. For this reason, she enjoyed an elite clientele, and, in fact, was patronized by the fashionable Empress Eugenie, wife of Napoleon III.

The bodice of the dress is just over waist length and fitted with darts. It features a high round neck and long sleeves. The front and the sleeves are trimmed with ruchings trimmed with satin bows. Similar bows are stitched at the back. A peplum of two gauged trapezoidal panels falls from the waist.

The Skirt is straight-cut in the front with a pleat at each side. From the knee to the hem it is trimmed with graduated rows of scalloped flounces. The hem has a matching brush braid which is held in position with tape.

The label reads: “FOURNISSEUR BREVETE DE S.M.L. IMPERATRICE MD VIGNON, / 83 Rue de Rivoli / PARIS.”


Treat of the Week: Tender Fruit Kolachke




Kolachkes (also spelled kolache, kolace, kolach or kolacky) are tender, puffy pastry rounds which are filled with a dollop of fruit preserves. The buttery, supple dough rises up in pillows around the fruit and the finished product is often adorned with a lovely sugar glaze.

These desserts, often enjoyed at wedding celebrations, have a Central European ancestry and are claimed by bakers in both Poland and Czechoslovakia. However, kolachke enjoy a great popularity in the United States, especially in Texas, curiously. My home state boasts a variety of kolachke bakeries and festivals dedicated to this delicious treat.

My mother surprised us with a beautiful batch of buttery kolachkes this weekend. She’s never made them before, and, frankly, despite their ubiquitous-ness here, I’ve never had one. I can say that I find them quite delightful. My mother’s version features the traditional tender dough, cut into scalloped rounds (rich with sour cream and butter), filled with peach jam, tangerine marmalade, strawberry jam and raspberry jam, and a beautiful sugar glaze.

If you’re fan of kolachkes, or, like me, new to the treat, do a search for the recipe of your choice. Several versions are available. You will be quite happy with the results. They're great alone or enjoyed, as we did, with a cup of chocolate pudding and a cup of tea.





Punch’s Cousin, Chapter 455

“These rooms is smaller than the ones what we came in.” Punch muttered as he and Toby sniffed around the perimeter of his cabin aboard the ship. “Still, I’d sit in a box for the whole trip, I would, if it meant we’d be gone from here.”

“I concur.” Robert nodded. He pointed with his thumb to the bassinette in his room where Colin slumbered. “It seems life at sea agrees with young Master Colin Molliner.”

“Sure,” Punch smiled. “Maybe he’ll be in Her Majesty’s Navy with Prince Edward Albert.”

“From what I’ve heard of the Prince of Wales, he’ll be more of an army man.” Robert chucked. “Besides, he’s got a good eleven years on our Colin.”

“True.” Punch sighed. “Well, Colin’ll be whatever he wants to be. He’ll have to get used to court life.”

“As will you.” Robert replied softly.

“Me?” Punch’s eyes widened.

“Well, yes.” Robert smiled. “You’re the Duke of Fallbridge.”

“Coo!” Punch snapped. “I already told you, I ain’t the Duke of nothin’.”

“You are as long as you live in that body.” Robert shook his head. “If Julian chooses to stay…” He searched for the right word. “Ummm…to stay at rest, then you must carry on with his duties. Among those duties, you’ll find, that life in court is topmost. Besides, Julian’s relationship with the Prince Consort is very important.”

“That were only during the Great Exhibition. That’s over now, it is—two years over.”

“Is it?” Robert continued. “Dear Punch, I’m not trying to harass you. We’ve discussed this before and I can see that you’re trying to ignore the reality of it. You must appreciate that I’m merely trying to prepare you for the inevitable. The Duke of Fallbridge has a long-standing relationship as a jeweler for the Crown.”

“But, Garrard’s is the Royal jeweler.” Punch frowned. “Has been since ’43.”

“Nevertheless, you know that Prince Albert’s temper often finds him at odds with jewelers . Look what happened with Rundell’s. You can’t imagine that Her Majesty would have appointed Garrard as the Royal goldsmith had Prince Albert not been dissatisfied with Rundell.”

“Nonetheless, them blokes at Garrard’s—they’re the Crown jewelers and well-suited for it, they are. They been at it for ten years now and done a fine job. They ain’t gonna need me.”

“Not to belabor the point,” Robert began.

“What?” Punch narrowed his eyes.

“I find it interesting that you know just when Her Majesty switched her allegiance with Rundell for an association with Garrard’s.”

“Here, I told ya. I know all what me master knows.”

“Precisely.” Robert smiled. “So, why is it that you can’t visit the court and collaborate with the Prince Consort on projects as Julian did?”

“Cuz, I ain’t no jeweler! And, I ain’t no Duke. I’m a puppet-man! Or…or whatever it is that I am!”

“If you know all that Julian knows, then, you are a jeweler, and a Duke.”

“Oh.” Punch sighed after awhile.

“Are you quite well?” Robert asked.

“Sure. Only I…”

“What is it?”

“I don’t want to go to the court.” Punch sniffed. “I want to play.”

“And play you shall.” Robert smiled softly. “However, you must realize that you have a responsibility as the Duke of Fallbridge and you must expect that the Crown will wish to consult with you. If you’ll recall, Julian’s work found much favor with Their Majesties. You know how Prince Albert is. Once he likes something…”

“I understand.” Punch grumbled.

“I know that you do.” Robert nodded.

They quietly went about unpacking.

Finally, Robert spoke up.

“Mr. Punch?”

“Chum?” Punch grinned, seeming to forget his previous nervousness and, once again, feeling excited about the prospect of their voyage.

“You know that I enjoy your companionship immeasurably…” Robert started.

“Only you want to know ‘bout me master.”

“Yes.”

“Go on.” Punch said, sitting on the narrow bed.

“Will he ever…” Robert inhaled. “You know. Oh, blast! I’m not good at saying things.”

“I don’t know if he’ll ever be able to live with the rest of you. He seems happy in here.” He thumped his chest.

“I see.” Robert nodded.

“I know you miss ‘im, you do.”

“Well, yes.”

“He misses you, too.” Punch responded.

“Does he?”

“’Course.” Punch nodded. “That’s why he’s always watchin’ and lookin’ out for ya. It’s just that life outside’s too difficult.”

“I understand.”

“Do you?” Punch asked.

“As much as possible.” Robert mumbled.

“It’s scary.” Punch sighed. “I know. It’s not bad to be scared, you know. I’m scared. I hear all what you’re sayin’ ‘bout me havin’ to be the Duke and cut diamonds and…and…all the other foolishness I gotta do. But, that’s what we gotta do, and we can do it together.”

“Yes.” Robert smiled.

“Here,” Punch took a deep breath, changing the subject. “I wonder if Adrienne and Cecil is getting’ settled. And, Gerry and Charles. When do you think we can see Marjani and Gamilla and the wee girl?”

“Soon.” Robert answered. “Remember, we agreed to stay in our cabins until the ship departed.”

“Right.” Punch said. He stood and walked to the porthole, peeling out. “Just think. In a bit, that’ll be far away.”

“Not soon enough.” Robert laughed.

“Hear, hear!” Punch whooped.

A knock on the cabin door startled them both.

“Must be a steward. I asked for some milk for Colin.” Robert walked to the door, opening it.

He froze in horror as Giovanni Iantosca stared back at him—a vicious grin passing his lips.



Did you miss Chapters 1-454? If so, you can read them here.

Valentine of the Day: A Valentine Card from 1860

Valentine Card, 1860
Britain
The Victoria & Albert Museum



This beautifully printed card dates to about 1860 and is one of a set of sixteen Birthday, Christmas, Souvenir and Valentines cards which were published by an unknown maker of high-quality greeting cards.

This dear greeting features a design of an oval bouquet of flowers, with a gold border and paper lace. These cards were given by the V&A in 1960 by on “Miss Peaker." Nothing else is known about them.

Object of the Day, Museum Edition: The Nymphenburg Tray, 1797

Tray of porcelain and enamel from Nymphenburg, Germany, 1797
The Victoria & Albert Museum


A lozenge-shaped tray of hard-paste porcelain, this beauty is painted in enamel colors and gilded with eight small shell-shaped feet with a wavy rim of pierced lattice-work, interrupted alternately with a scallop-shell in relief and an oval opening outlined in gold.

The center of the tray features a circular medallion of two gilt silhouette busts of a lady and man facing one another. The medallion is beneath a festoon of green laurel leaves which are tied with crimson ribbons with sprays of gilt foliage,

Made in Nymphenburg, Germany in 1797, this is the work of the Nymphenburg porcelain factory.