Monday, January 16, 2012
Mastery of Design: The Cartier African Mask Brooch, 1950-60
Jewelers of the 1950s and 1960s searched for new ways to interpret traditional forms in the same creative dance that comes to art and fashion every half a century or so. As is always the case, eyes trained on the future often nod at the past.
Designed by Cartier in Paris between 1950 and 1960, this brooch depicts a stylized African head. Cartier has cleverly pointed to earlier designs based on African art which became popular in the Nineteenth Century, however, this one has a different message. This brooch was made around the time when France's colonial domination of large areas of Africa was coming to an end.
The mask is carved of white chalcedony, with gold and coral detailing and a single diamond set just above the nose.
Gifts of Grandeur: The LeRoy Coral Bracelet, 1860
This delicate jewel of marine coral and African gold depicts intricately carved flowers emerging from a woven basket. This sort of naturalistic jewelry became especially popular in the mid-Nineteenth Century, especially in Italy where this bracelet was made. Coral’s softness allowed for easy carving, but it could also be used in its natural form, taking advantage of the appeal of its natural branches in styles reminiscent of those from Asia and Africa.
Most of the coral used in Europe came from the sea near Naples, Italy, and the medium quickly became a favorite symbol of world travel around 1815.
![]() |
| The Victoria & Albert Museum |
This delicate jewel of marine coral and African gold depicts intricately carved flowers emerging from a woven basket. This sort of naturalistic jewelry became especially popular in the mid-Nineteenth Century, especially in Italy where this bracelet was made. Coral’s softness allowed for easy carving, but it could also be used in its natural form, taking advantage of the appeal of its natural branches in styles reminiscent of those from Asia and Africa.
Most of the coral used in Europe came from the sea near Naples, Italy, and the medium quickly became a favorite symbol of world travel around 1815.
Sculpture of the Day: The Bronze Captive, 1660
We see here, a captive man with manacled wrists held in front. He kneels on his left knee above a shield, quiver and arrow (symbols of his then-unattainable freedom). Regal in his feathered head-dress and skirt, he looks toward the freedom which has long been denied him.
The work of an unknown sculptor, this powerful figure of patinated bronze dates to 1660-1700 and hails from France. During this period, France colonized islands in the West Indies hoping to transform them into profitable sugar-producing centers fueled by the labor of enslaved Africans.
![]() |
| The Victoria & Albert Museum |
We see here, a captive man with manacled wrists held in front. He kneels on his left knee above a shield, quiver and arrow (symbols of his then-unattainable freedom). Regal in his feathered head-dress and skirt, he looks toward the freedom which has long been denied him.
The work of an unknown sculptor, this powerful figure of patinated bronze dates to 1660-1700 and hails from France. During this period, France colonized islands in the West Indies hoping to transform them into profitable sugar-producing centers fueled by the labor of enslaved Africans.
Treat of the Week: Stellar Strawberry Muffins
This past weekend, my mother whipped up some fresh strawberry muffins—alive with the brilliant flavor of strawberries and cinnamon. Since I actually got to be there for the preparation of them, I thought I’d share the recipe with you.
I have to say, these were the perfect burst of springtime on a cold, soggy winter’s day. Whip up a batch of these muffins, brew a pot of tea and let the sun into the dark corners of your house.
Prep Time: 15 minutes
Total Time: 35 minutes
Makes 12 muffins (we doubled the recipe)
Ingredients
1 1/2 cups sliced strawberries
1 Teaspoon lemon zest
1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup whole-wheat flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 cup low-fat buttermilk
1/4 cup light olive oil or vegetable oil
1 large egg
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Directions
First, preheat your oven to 400 degrees. Line a standard 12-cup muffin tin with paper liners.
Gently mix together your strawberries with 1/3 cup sugar and your lemon zest. Lightly mash the berries and set them aside.
In a large bowl, whisk together your dry ingredients: flours, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and cinnamon. In a glass 2-quart measuring cup or a medium bowl, combine buttermilk, oil, egg, and vanilla.
Make a well in the center of the flour mixture.
Pour in the buttermilk mixture.
Next, add the berry mixture (with juice).
Fold until combined.
Using an ice cream scoop, divide the batter among the muffin cups.
Sprinkle the tops with turbinado sugar mixed with cinnamon.
Bake until a toothpick inserted in the center of a muffin comes out clean, about 17 minutes. Cool 5 minutes in the pan, then transfer muffins to a wire rack to cool completely.
I have to say, these were the perfect burst of springtime on a cold, soggy winter’s day. Whip up a batch of these muffins, brew a pot of tea and let the sun into the dark corners of your house.
Prep Time: 15 minutes
Total Time: 35 minutes
Makes 12 muffins (we doubled the recipe)
Ingredients
1 1/2 cups sliced strawberries
1 Teaspoon lemon zest
1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup whole-wheat flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 cup low-fat buttermilk
1/4 cup light olive oil or vegetable oil
1 large egg
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Directions
First, preheat your oven to 400 degrees. Line a standard 12-cup muffin tin with paper liners.
Gently mix together your strawberries with 1/3 cup sugar and your lemon zest. Lightly mash the berries and set them aside.
In a large bowl, whisk together your dry ingredients: flours, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and cinnamon. In a glass 2-quart measuring cup or a medium bowl, combine buttermilk, oil, egg, and vanilla.
Make a well in the center of the flour mixture.
Pour in the buttermilk mixture.
Next, add the berry mixture (with juice).
Fold until combined.
Using an ice cream scoop, divide the batter among the muffin cups.
Sprinkle the tops with turbinado sugar mixed with cinnamon.
Bake until a toothpick inserted in the center of a muffin comes out clean, about 17 minutes. Cool 5 minutes in the pan, then transfer muffins to a wire rack to cool completely.
Punch's Cousin, Chapter 437
Charles wept openly as he sat on the wet stoop outside of Big Ollie's shop. He gulped and wiped his eyes with the back of his hands. This was not the world that he had wanted to be a part of when he fled from his older brother, Giovanni.
He had imagined a sedate, quiet, proper life in service. No, he would never make the fortune that his brother had, but he would be comforted by a greater wealth--the knowledge that he would not rot in Hell alongside his closest kin as a thief and murderer. He had always thought he would meet a fine, upstanding parlor maid and marry her. They’d have children and take a little cottage near an aristocratic house, one day becoming butler and housekeeper respectively. They’d have a family, and, in turn, be part of another family—a noble family who would cherish them and protect them.
That’s not how it happened. No.
He did meet a maid--a maid who had once been a lady, but a maid nonetheless. She had once been a lady, sure, but, other things, too. He could overlook that. She was fine in her heart, she had just been led astray. No, she wasn't particularly upstanding--certainly not the sweet girl he had dreamed of, but he loved her. He couldn't help himself. She was beautiful and passionate, intelligent and cunning. Cunning? No, that was not one of the qualities he had sought.
Still, Barbara made him feel alive. She had made him ambitious again. But, she had also diverted him from his path.
"And, now, I'm sitting out in the cold while my...sweetheart...is..." Fresh tears rose in his eyes.
Charles moaned as he remembered how he had pleaded with Barbara to come with him. He looked from her face to Big Ollie’s—hers soft still, not entirely hardened by her pain; his, grotesque and drooling. He ordered her to walk out with him. He was prepared to fight the gargantuan beast who would threaten Barbara’s honor. Her honor? Well, threaten her honor again.
“I’m gonna get what I want,” Ollie grinned, licking his lips. “Big Ollie’s gonna get what he wants, or you two are goin’ to be in a heap of trouble.”
"Charles, it's of no consequence," she had replied blankly after Big Ollie explained what he wanted in return for his services. "If it will buy his silence and quicken the sale of this diamond, it's certainly worth it."
Charles shivered as he recalled Big Ollie's smirk as he escorted Barbara to the seedy little room above his office. The giant had turned and spat on the floor, looking Charles squarely in the eye. “Gonna see what you’re so protective of, little man.”
Sobs shook Charles’ lean body and he was at once hot and cold, trying not to picture the loaf-like hands of the beast on Barbara’s tender, pale skin.
The click of the door startled Charles and he wiped his nose and eyes with his sleeve.
Barbara exited, red-faced, but otherwise unfazed. "Strange creature," she shrugged. "The whole of him was…well, it was putrid. Such growths. But, it's done. He thinks he can find a buyer for the stone immediately."
She waited for Charles to reply.
"Well?" She snapped.
Angrily, Barbra took Charles' face in her hands. " What is this? Jealousy?"
"What I am feeling is not jealousy." Charles shook his head slowly.
"Probably disgust." Barbara chuckled. “I don’t blame you. If I were paying attention, I’d probably have vomited. Still…”
"You joke?"
"What else can I do?" Barbara shrugged. "I have no choice. Perhaps if you were a little more forceful..."
"What?" Charles' eyes widened.
"Well, I have to do everything myself." Barbara stretched her back. “Meanwhile, you cower and examine your conscience which is, frankly, an awful waste of time.
"I see." Charles grunted.
"Do you disagree?" Barbara nodded.
“I don’t know.” Charles replied.
“Listen to me. We cannot be diverted from our goal.” She sat down on the stoop next to Charles. “I apologize if I was harsh just now. I suppose it’s my nature. I’ve always been this way—cold. I take after Mother. Julian, the poor fool, has always been like father. You know, when I was a child—well, you know Julian’s quite a bit older than I—he wasn’t completely mad then. He was actually rather sweet in a sickening sort of way. He’d try to hold me and rock me and sing. He’d make me dolls and bring me little cuttings from gemstones that had been delivered to him. He’d do anything I asked of him. One day, I ordered him to sing for me. The Ballad of Barbara Allen. You know it, of course?”
“Yes.” Charles nodded slowly, his nose running.
“Obviously I loved the song. It made me laugh. That day, as Julian sang of Barbara Allen’s cruelty to Jimmy Grove, I roared with laughter. Julian stopped singing. He looked hurt and asked if I was laughing at him.”
“What did you say?”
“I said that I certainly was, but not exclusively. I was also laughing about the dead man in the song. Do you know what he did, my older brother, heir to the Duchy of Fallbridge?”
“I imagine he was very hurt.”
“Yes.” Barbara chuckled. “He sobbed. That’s when I knew he was different—useless just as mother had said. I didn’t know then how different he was. You know, we never talked about it, but we all knew. If it wasn’t so amusing, it would be tragic.”
“It is tragic.” Charles sniffed.
“Now? Now you have pity for him?”
“Of course.”
“Charles, I’ve listened to you a thousand times as you’ve told me how much my brother the Duke irritates you.”
“Well, yes.” Charles nodded slowly. “He does. But, through no fault of his own.”
“Honestly?” Barbara clucked. “All of his nonsense about being Mr. Punch, his rough speech and his wide-eyes.”
“He doesn’t irritate me because of those things. I realize now that I’m bothered by him because he reminds me of what I’ve lost, what’s lacking in myself. That sense of innocence about him—it’s charming, enviable, really. I wish I could have just a grain of His Grace’s sense of fairness and loyalty; just a small portion of his exuberance and the joy he takes in something as simple as the wag of a dog’s tail.”
“You call that ‘joy’? It’s idiocy or lunacy or both. It’s a weakness, a disease. He’s disgusting. He’s the disgusting one, Charles.”
“Yet, you let him raise your child.”
Barbara’s eyes sparked with anger. “Yes.” She growled. “He may be weak, but he’s clean. The boy will grow up loved—even if it is in a peculiar household.”
“Don’t you think you could have loved your son?”
“I do love him. That’s why I let him go.” Barbara snapped.
Charles gagged a bit. As Barbara grew angrier, she grew warmer and he could smell Big Ollie’s revolting aroma on her.
“Barbara,” Charles began cautiously. “I’ve overlooked quite a bit.”
“As have I.” Barbara retorted.
“I’ve overlooked,” Charles continued, “everything you’ve told me of your past. However, presently, I have an image of a woman carrying a child onto a ship. Carrying him like a cabbage or a fowl in a burlap sack.”
“I don’t deny it.”
“Yet, you feel no remorse.”
“No.” Barbara shrugged. “It’s done.”
“And, you say you loved the boy?”
“You’ll never understand.
“I understand better than you think.” Charles sighed. “You’re incapable of human love. You love only one thing—revenge. That’s…”
“Charles, before you go any further, think about what you’re saying.” Barbara warned coldly.
“I am, Barbara. I am.”
Did you miss Chapters 1-436? If so you can read them here.
He had imagined a sedate, quiet, proper life in service. No, he would never make the fortune that his brother had, but he would be comforted by a greater wealth--the knowledge that he would not rot in Hell alongside his closest kin as a thief and murderer. He had always thought he would meet a fine, upstanding parlor maid and marry her. They’d have children and take a little cottage near an aristocratic house, one day becoming butler and housekeeper respectively. They’d have a family, and, in turn, be part of another family—a noble family who would cherish them and protect them.
That’s not how it happened. No.
He did meet a maid--a maid who had once been a lady, but a maid nonetheless. She had once been a lady, sure, but, other things, too. He could overlook that. She was fine in her heart, she had just been led astray. No, she wasn't particularly upstanding--certainly not the sweet girl he had dreamed of, but he loved her. He couldn't help himself. She was beautiful and passionate, intelligent and cunning. Cunning? No, that was not one of the qualities he had sought.
Still, Barbara made him feel alive. She had made him ambitious again. But, she had also diverted him from his path.
"And, now, I'm sitting out in the cold while my...sweetheart...is..." Fresh tears rose in his eyes.
Charles moaned as he remembered how he had pleaded with Barbara to come with him. He looked from her face to Big Ollie’s—hers soft still, not entirely hardened by her pain; his, grotesque and drooling. He ordered her to walk out with him. He was prepared to fight the gargantuan beast who would threaten Barbara’s honor. Her honor? Well, threaten her honor again.
“I’m gonna get what I want,” Ollie grinned, licking his lips. “Big Ollie’s gonna get what he wants, or you two are goin’ to be in a heap of trouble.”
"Charles, it's of no consequence," she had replied blankly after Big Ollie explained what he wanted in return for his services. "If it will buy his silence and quicken the sale of this diamond, it's certainly worth it."
Charles shivered as he recalled Big Ollie's smirk as he escorted Barbara to the seedy little room above his office. The giant had turned and spat on the floor, looking Charles squarely in the eye. “Gonna see what you’re so protective of, little man.”
Sobs shook Charles’ lean body and he was at once hot and cold, trying not to picture the loaf-like hands of the beast on Barbara’s tender, pale skin.
The click of the door startled Charles and he wiped his nose and eyes with his sleeve.
Barbara exited, red-faced, but otherwise unfazed. "Strange creature," she shrugged. "The whole of him was…well, it was putrid. Such growths. But, it's done. He thinks he can find a buyer for the stone immediately."
She waited for Charles to reply.
"Well?" She snapped.
Angrily, Barbra took Charles' face in her hands. " What is this? Jealousy?"
"What I am feeling is not jealousy." Charles shook his head slowly.
"Probably disgust." Barbara chuckled. “I don’t blame you. If I were paying attention, I’d probably have vomited. Still…”
"You joke?"
"What else can I do?" Barbara shrugged. "I have no choice. Perhaps if you were a little more forceful..."
"What?" Charles' eyes widened.
"Well, I have to do everything myself." Barbara stretched her back. “Meanwhile, you cower and examine your conscience which is, frankly, an awful waste of time.
"I see." Charles grunted.
"Do you disagree?" Barbara nodded.
“I don’t know.” Charles replied.
“Listen to me. We cannot be diverted from our goal.” She sat down on the stoop next to Charles. “I apologize if I was harsh just now. I suppose it’s my nature. I’ve always been this way—cold. I take after Mother. Julian, the poor fool, has always been like father. You know, when I was a child—well, you know Julian’s quite a bit older than I—he wasn’t completely mad then. He was actually rather sweet in a sickening sort of way. He’d try to hold me and rock me and sing. He’d make me dolls and bring me little cuttings from gemstones that had been delivered to him. He’d do anything I asked of him. One day, I ordered him to sing for me. The Ballad of Barbara Allen. You know it, of course?”
“Yes.” Charles nodded slowly, his nose running.
“Obviously I loved the song. It made me laugh. That day, as Julian sang of Barbara Allen’s cruelty to Jimmy Grove, I roared with laughter. Julian stopped singing. He looked hurt and asked if I was laughing at him.”
“What did you say?”
“I said that I certainly was, but not exclusively. I was also laughing about the dead man in the song. Do you know what he did, my older brother, heir to the Duchy of Fallbridge?”
“I imagine he was very hurt.”
“Yes.” Barbara chuckled. “He sobbed. That’s when I knew he was different—useless just as mother had said. I didn’t know then how different he was. You know, we never talked about it, but we all knew. If it wasn’t so amusing, it would be tragic.”
“It is tragic.” Charles sniffed.
“Now? Now you have pity for him?”
“Of course.”
“Charles, I’ve listened to you a thousand times as you’ve told me how much my brother the Duke irritates you.”
“Well, yes.” Charles nodded slowly. “He does. But, through no fault of his own.”
“Honestly?” Barbara clucked. “All of his nonsense about being Mr. Punch, his rough speech and his wide-eyes.”
“He doesn’t irritate me because of those things. I realize now that I’m bothered by him because he reminds me of what I’ve lost, what’s lacking in myself. That sense of innocence about him—it’s charming, enviable, really. I wish I could have just a grain of His Grace’s sense of fairness and loyalty; just a small portion of his exuberance and the joy he takes in something as simple as the wag of a dog’s tail.”
“You call that ‘joy’? It’s idiocy or lunacy or both. It’s a weakness, a disease. He’s disgusting. He’s the disgusting one, Charles.”
“Yet, you let him raise your child.”
Barbara’s eyes sparked with anger. “Yes.” She growled. “He may be weak, but he’s clean. The boy will grow up loved—even if it is in a peculiar household.”
“Don’t you think you could have loved your son?”
“I do love him. That’s why I let him go.” Barbara snapped.
Charles gagged a bit. As Barbara grew angrier, she grew warmer and he could smell Big Ollie’s revolting aroma on her.
“Barbara,” Charles began cautiously. “I’ve overlooked quite a bit.”
“As have I.” Barbara retorted.
“I’ve overlooked,” Charles continued, “everything you’ve told me of your past. However, presently, I have an image of a woman carrying a child onto a ship. Carrying him like a cabbage or a fowl in a burlap sack.”
“I don’t deny it.”
“Yet, you feel no remorse.”
“No.” Barbara shrugged. “It’s done.”
“And, you say you loved the boy?”
“You’ll never understand.
“I understand better than you think.” Charles sighed. “You’re incapable of human love. You love only one thing—revenge. That’s…”
“Charles, before you go any further, think about what you’re saying.” Barbara warned coldly.
“I am, Barbara. I am.”
Did you miss Chapters 1-436? If so you can read them here.
History's Runway: The Miss Emilie Grigsby Fringe Dress, 1925
| The Victoria & Albert Museum |
This short, jazzy dancing dress is alive with orange silk velvet. It features a straight-cut, low-waisted, low-cut, sleeveless bodice and a skirt comprised of two rows of tapering pointed knee-length streamers, each attached to the bodice via decorative stitching: the topmost is of orange velvet stitched in beige, the lower of peach velvet stitched in pink.
Each streamer is edged with fringe of gold beads and lined in a brilliant yellow silk. A narrow sash in orange is lined with peach velvet to match the lower set of streamers.
The height of Jazz-Age chic, this gown was made in France circa 1925 by the designer Voisin and was worn by Miss Emilie Grigsby (1876-1964), a wealthy American who came to England from New York.
Grigsby established a salon and was considered to be one of the great international beauties. Her ghostly pale, almost transparent, skin and golden hair were as much admired as her avant-garde style.
This dress, part of the collection of the Victoria & Albert Museum, perfectly reflects the spirit of mid-1920s fashion when a woman's gown was an extension of the dances she loved and her spirit of freedom.
Object of the Day, Museum Edition: The Ghana Hornbill Goldweight, c. 1880
The majority of the wealth and prestige for the Asante kingdom in Ghana, West Africa centered around the excavation of gold. The measurement of this precious ore was an exact science as early as 1600. Weights called mbrammoo were crafted in brass and bronze and used to weigh gold dust, which was used as a currency for all commercial transactions. Sets of these standardized weights would have been owned by merchants throughout Ghana.
This brass weight from the V&A is surmounted by the figure of a hornbill bird--a popular subject for Asante goldsmiths. This plucky bird is shown standing on the top of a seven-stepped pyramid. In the West African culture, the hornbill is a symbol of both male and female fertility and is considered the embodiment of peaceful, thriving communities. A popular saying states, "a bird has a long bill it uses it for eating on its own side of the river and not for stretching across the water." Similarly, these weights represented the meeting of communities for trade, carrying messages of peace and goodwill.
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