Living the Belle Époque: Ithaca, New York

It really is. Gorges and gorgeous.



Prior to being named “Fan of the Week” by NBC’s TODAY and the fourth hour’s lovable hosts Kathie Lee Gifford and Hoda Kotb, I didn’t know much about Ithaca, New York, except that the city was known as a college town—home of Cornell University and Ithaca College, a place named for a Grecian island. I wasn’t aware of the magnificent natural beauty of Ithaca, its many monumental gorges (the source of the city’s slogan), sculptural stacks of shale and glistening waterfalls. I had no idea that this upstate city, the county seat of Tompkins County, was a major center of American winemaking. I was oblivious to the fact that Ithaca, with its charming plaza and commons, was as much of a cultural extravaganza as it is—peppered with fine restaurants, monuments to the arts and sciences and exceptional opportunities for performing artists of all types.



Since September, I’ve learned quite a lot about Ithaca thanks to the many generous and gracious representatives of the city and its businesses with whom I’ve had the pleasure of interacting. Fred Bonn, Director of the Ithaca/Tompkins County Convention and Visitors Bureau afforded me my first introduction to Ithaca. I knew after the first time I spoke with Mr. Bonn that I was dealing with a community of exceptional people. In arranging my trip to Ithaca, Mr. Bonn and his associates were careful to make sure that my experience would be one that I’d not only enjoy but remember forever. For example, I’m not a drinker. Instead of a tasting tour of the wineries of the area, Mr. Bonn made sure that Laura Winter Falk, the knowledgeable and gracious president and owner of “Experience! The Finger Lakes” would tailor our private tour of the beautiful scenery to suit my interests—history, architecture, geology--a tour that would not only include stunning vistas, majestic waterfalls and towering rock formations, but also an introduction to the handsome Victorian architecture of the city and the history of its founders.

This week, Ithaca celebrates the arts with an ice sculpture carving event.

I learned very quickly, even from these initial dealings, that these were truly kind and welcoming people. Quite frankly, I was shocked. I’m not accustomed to being treated with such a spirit of giving—outside of my own friends and family. And, so, many a question was answered. There are still gentle people in the world. Furthermore, I can say with great certainty that anyone visiting Ithaca—and I highly recommend it—will be treated as an old friend, returning home.


Speaking of home, my gift from Kathie Lee and Hoda gave me an introduction to La Tourelle Resort and Spa. Managing Director Scott Wiggins and General Manager Leslie Leonard, along with an outstanding staff, treat all guests to the resort as if they’re long-lost chums. The main hotel is comfortably appointed, sitting proudly above the tranquil spa which offers a tremendous array of services and pampering which are sure to help even the most highly strung of us feel relaxed.

Of course, as beautiful as the resort and spa is, it's rivaled only by the views from the beautifully-manicured grounds around the hotel.  

However, if you’re looking for a very special experience, I’d recommend La Tourelle’s spacious Yellow Barn Suite. Three bedrooms, two baths and a powder room, the suite’s three-story loft is warmed by a gas fireplace which flickers and glows against the wrought iron railings of the spiral staircase and balconies. A commodious living room seats ten and with its projection television is the perfect spot to relax and feel like royalty.

If you’re looking for a good meal, Ithaca is the place. And, if you’re staying at La Tourelle, you don’t have to go very far for one either. Simply Red Bistro, with its friendly staff, offers a varied breakfast and lunch menu and the sumptuous John Thomas Steakhouse—just steps away from both the main hotel and the Yellow Barn, affords opportunities to enjoy the best of New York State cuisine. Utilizing locally grown ingredients and featuring Tompkins County wines, the dining at La Tourelle always promises to be top notch.

John Thomas Steakhouse

And, that’s not even mentioning the host of dining options at the Ithaca Commons. Rows of restaurants, each elegant and each appealing, offer a visitor any number of options. After you’ve eaten, take some time to browse the many attractive shops that line the plaza. Everything from jewelry and books to fine clothing and gourmet items are right there on your path. 

It’s not often that I hang up from an introductory phone call and think, “What nice people.” And, it’s rare indeed that those same people and, even, complete strangers reinforce that initial perception. However, I can say with the utmost confidence that should you decide to visit Ithaca—and you should—you will experience a level of cordiality which I had long thought was gone.

I'm very grateful to TODAY, Kathie Lee and Hoda for the opportunity to learn about Ithaca and to encounter such fine people.

Object of the Day: An Underwood and Underwood Stereoscope, 1891

As regular readers know, I’ve been collecting stereographs (the long photographic cards employed with stereoscopes to produce three dimensional images) for several months now. I’ve enjoyed the look of these stereo cards themselves. Their double images, often set in arched compositions, are neat glimpses into Victorian life. Seemingly identical, one image is actually slightly off-set so that, when observed through a viewer, the scene becomes three-dimensional.

Since I’ve a good many stereographs, I’ve been looking for a stereo viewer, or stereoscope, so that I could view the cards as they were meant to be seen. I’ve known what’s supposed to happen when you view the cards, but I’d not actually seen it in action. I’ve been looking and looking for one…and…

Image my surprise when I received a package from Ithaca, New York, specifically from the Downtown Ithaca Alliance as a gift of hospitality. As many of you know, several months ago, I was named “Fan of the Week” of the fourth hour of NBC’s TODAY. My gift from Kathie Lee Gifford and Hoda Kotb—a trip to Ithaca. Tomorrow, I’ll be telling you all of the wonderful things I’ve learned about Ithaca, its residents and culture. But, for now, let’s stick with our stereoscope.

Amongst the goodies in the package from Ithaca was the stereoscope that I very much wanted. This one, made by Underwood and Underwood about 1891 gave me my first look into the 3-D novelties of the late Nineteenth Century. I love it! I spent an hour just gazing at cards and marveling at the detail which sprang to life. The viewer itself is actually a work of art, too. With its handsome profile and elegant curves, it’s a great representation of the work of its famous makers. 

Underwood & Underwood was founded in Ottawa, Kansas in the early 1880s. The company produced stereoscopes and stereoscopic images, and, later, were considered one of the earliest pioneers of American news photography.

Elmer (1859-1947) and Bert (1862-1943) Underwood started their stereo concern by selling their stereoscopes in Kansas, door-to-door. The novelty became so popular that by 1891, the brothers moved their headquarters to New York and soon they had established branches in Baltimore, London and Canada. By 1901, Underwood and Underwood was selling over 300,000 stereoscopes a year and manufacturing more than 25,000 cards a day. In 1920, the majority of the brothers’ catalog was sold to the Keystone View Company.

A similar stereoscope is located in the V&A. The model in the V&A, also by Underwood and Underwood, dates to about 1901 and features a stamped tin screen with a padded velvet rim to protect the face.