Sunday, December 16, 2012

Mastery of Design: A Pearl, Moonstone and Peridot Pendant, 1815



Pendant
English, 1815
The Victoria & Albert Museum
This delicate pendant of seed pearls mounted on mother-of-pearl is decorated with moonstones and peridots set in gold. The work of an unknown British jeweler, the piece dates to about 1815 and shows the sensibilities of designs of the time.


There’s a distinct reliance on the natural beauty of the stones that allows them to speak for themselves. It’s an interesting piece in that it demonstrates the ideals of the Rococo with a definite nod toward what was then modern design.

History’s Runway: The John Cavanagh Orchid Gown, 1953



Gown
John Cavanagh, 1953
The Victoria & Albert Museum


Can you picture the young Queen Elizabeth II wearing this beautiful gown?  Here, we see an evening dress of brocaded silk with a design of semi-naturalistic orchids woven in oyster, pale-pink and green silk punctuated with gold threads. The gown has a heart-shaped, fitted bodice with two shoulder straps, and a semi-full skirt with a small train at the back.

This dessert-like creation is composes of two layers of fine silk which are separate except where they are joined together to form the design. Lines of gold thread peek through at random points allowing the gown to shimmer.

This magnificent evening gown is the work of the John Cavanagh (1914-2003) and was part of his Spring/Summer 1953 “Coronation Collection.” The gown was made for and worn by Lady Cornwallis (nee Esme d’Beaumont, 1901-69) expressly for the coronation celebrations in June.

The intricate fabrics were designed by Oliver Messel (1904-1978), at the time Britain’s foremost designer of costumes and sets for stage and film.


Sunday Morning Special: Max Fleischer's "Hawaiian Birds," 1936





This, I think, speaks for itself. It’s good, healthy Max-Fleischer-y, knee-bending, 1930’s fun! Adulterous birds, bad jazz-birds and, yes, lots of knee-bending—the perfect way to start a Sunday!


The Home Beautiful: Tiffany & Co. Favrille, 1895

Favrile Vase
Tiffany & Co., 1895
The Victoria & Albert Museum



The term “Favrile” referred to Tiffany & Co's art-glass range, with the word stemming from “fabrile,” essentially an “Old English” term meaning, “Handmade.” The Favrile line was typified by its lustrous, opalescent look and its beautiful colors which came from incorporating colored canes of glass into the body of each piece. Metallic oxides and exposure to acid fumes lent to the luster of the glass.

This example, a vase designed by Louis Comfort Tiffany (1848-1933) was made by the Long Island-based Stourbridge Glass Company (Tiffany’s original enterprise which was launched in 1893 with Arthur J. Nash) and sold through the Tiffany Glass & Decorating Co. It dates to about 1895. 




Mr. Punch of Belgrave Square will Continue on Monday




The last couple of weeks have seen Mr. Punch and Robert return home to Belgrave Square with the staff, and, of course, Colin and Dog Toby.  After the chaotic journey to Aberdeenshire, the lot of them is looking forward to some quiet time at home.  Still, there's a bit of trepidation on everyone's part since the impostor "Ellen" was not found before they left nor was Johnny Donnan.

As Gamilla helped Gerard heal from his stab wound, the rest of the staff pitches in to help.  Georgie Pepper has really stepped up and impressed him employers.  Violet is filling in for Gamilla who has taken the role of nurse to Colin, and, Violet has been named Lady's Maid to the Duke's newly found half-sister, Lennie (who has decided to use the surname of Molliner).  Speaight's still ailing from being poisoned, but returns to work, and Mrs. Pepper is as plucky as ever, as are Jenny and Ethel.  All but Hutchinson is doing his or her part.

Hutchinson, it seems, has developed a dislike for the masters.  His opinions are quickly shut down in the servants' hall, but Speaight is still suspicious, especially after seeing Hutchinson in the mews with two shady women.  Speaight reports Hutchinson's bad behavior to Dr. Halifax, and Robert agrees that they should keep an eye on the man.  Still, Robert knows they need Hutchinson to drive the carriage to Buckingham Palace.

You see, the Duke/Mr. Punch has been summoned by the Queen to look over an important diamond that she wants to purchase.  Punch thinks the diamond is likely the Molliner Blue--the tremendous stone that they traded in America for Colin's freedom.  Punch fears that since the diamond has returned to England, that maybe Colin is not safe.  Robert tries to reassure his companion, but something continues to nag at Punch--a weird unease that makes him worry for his son.

As it turns out, Hutchinson was meeting in the news with Eudora Stover--the sister of the man who was killed by "Ellen," and former employee of No. 65, Hortence who, in turn, have colluded with "Ellen" to exact revenge on the Duke.  Their plan?  Unless the Duke pays all of them off, they'll reveal Colin's parentage as well as harm the boy in some manner.  Hutchinson is to be rewarded for bringing the Duke and the doctor to the three witches.

And, he does just that.  Instead of taking the masters to the palace, he takes a detour to Eudora's where the Duke and Dr. Halifax are forced to talk to the three women.  Of course, Eudora and Hortence have a secret plan to cheat "Ellen" (who is going by her real name, Orpha) and Orpha has a plan to do the same to them.

Back in the carriage, Punch is furious, and when they arrive at the palace, asks for the Queen's guards to arrest Hutchinson.  At first they are turned away because Prince Albert is upset that Punch and Robert were late, but one of the Queen's ladies in waiting comes to their aid.  She brings them to the Queen and Hutchinson is taken away.  Robert and Punch tell their tale to the Queen who affectionately promises to help them.

Later that day, the Robert and Punch return home to discover that Violet is heartbroken over Hutchinson's betrayal, and they make her see that she should stay.  Robert and Punch are worried for Colin, but realize that the Queen has the house guarded.

Meanwhile, Lady Lensdown has been taken to tea at Mivart's where she sees a woman who looks a lot like "Ellen."  Well, that's because it is.  Furthermore, "Ellen" is having tea with Lady Constance, the daughter of the late Countess Hamish.  The Baron Lensdown becomes nervous and insists that he and his wife should leave.

Constance and Orpha/Ellen talk and Ellen reveals that she knows of Constance's daughter with the baron.  Orpha speaks of her past and says she has a brother--a brother who happens to be the Baron Lensdown.  Constance is shocked to learn that Orpha's brother was also their shared lover and, worse still, that Orpha conceived a child with her brother.  Orpha insists that Constance help her destroy her brother/lover.  When Constance objects, Orpha says the woman has no choice.

That evening, Lady Lensdown visits the Duke's home where she speaks to Lennie and reveals what she saw at Mivart's.  Lennie is concerned and just as the baroness is about to leave, Lady Constance arrives with news that her daughter has been kidnapped!  What's more, so have the baroness' children!

So, we now have Orpha colluding with Constance, Eudora, and Hortence.  She's definitely trying to trick the latter two.  But, what of Constance?  Surely Orpha is conning her, too.  And, is Constance on Orpha's side or just her own?  Now that Lennie has formed a friendship the baron's wife, is she in more danger?  How can the Queen help our heroes and is Colin still in peril?  Will Punch be able to meet his obligations to Prince Albert?  Have we seen the last of Hutchinson?  What's Orpha up to and how will her scheme affect Punch and Robert?  How will the baron react when he learns that one of his many lovers was his sister?

We've a lot coming up this week.  You won't want to miss a Chapter, but if you do, you can access each and read summaries in the Chapter Archive.

Thanks for reading!



Print of the Day: Blackheath Park, 1852


Click image to enlarge.Blackheath Park
William Mulready, 1852
The Victoria & Albert Museum



Chances are, you don’t spend as much time poking around the collections of the V&A as I do. Maybe you do. If you were to do so, you’d notice that a good many of the paintings were given to the Victoria & Albert Museum by one John Sheepshanks. Sheepshanks was a hugely prolific collector of art and we owe him a debt of gratitude for his dogged dedication to preserving these masterpieces.

Sheepshanks, being a patron of the arts, enjoyed friendships with many of the greatest artists of the Victorian era. Among them was the Irish-born William Mulready (1786-1863).

Mulready created this piece in 1852, especially for Sheepshanks. The painting depicts the view across the park from the gate of John Sheepshank’s commodious home in Blackheath, South London. Sheepshanks loved this view of fields, trees and water and was especially pleased with the painting which a critic described as “a refreshing green bit of nature.”



Object of the Day: Splendid Lawn Mowers





This grim, androgynous child begs out to look into his or her eyes. His or her hair is long, and wild—not unlike um-mowed grass. He or she, despite needing a comb, has good fashion sense and has matched his or her Paul-Lynde scarf to the peacock feather in his or her har.

So, what’s the advertising? Hair tonic? Feathers? Scarecrow hats? Kicky cravats?

Nope.

Lawn Mowers. And, not just any lawn mowers—SPLENDID LAWN MOWERS.

I’m sure you have many questions. I know I do. To begin with, how much would I have to pay for one, presuming that it’s 1885?

Let’s learn more. Shall we?



                                                        1885 

PRICE LIST 
12 inch,…$15.00
14 inch,… 17.00
16 inch,… 19.00 


SPLENDID LAWN MOWER.

     At the request of numerous customers, we have introduced
a wood roller machine, combining all of the good qualities of
the celebrated Lawn Mowers without any of their objectionable
features. We respectfully ask a comparison of our Splendid
Lawn Mower with any machine in the market, and would ask
your special attention to the following:
    
Simplicity, Durability, Lightness of Draft, Quality of
Material, and General Workmanship.

 
    Fully guaranteed to give satisfaction
in every particular. If you want a Lawn
Mower to last you a lifetime buy the
SPLENDID. 

Manufactured by the ROGERS FENCE CO. 
                                                        Springfield, Ohio.


Now, if you’ll excuse me, I’m going to rat out my hair into kinky auburn waves, fetch my scarecrow hat, tie a napkin around my neck and stand in my front yard with the sky behind me until someone asks about my SPLENDID lawn mower.