Monday, April 30, 2012

Mastery of Design: The Castellani Etruscan Tiara


Tiara Wreath of Gold and Pearls
Castellani
The Victoria & Albert Museum




This lavish tiara was inspired by an Etruscan gold wreath which dated to about the 5th century BC, which is in the Campanari Collection acquired by the British Museum in 1841.

This is the work of the famed Italian jewelry firm, Castellani, which was founded in Rome by Fortunato Pio Castellani (1794-1865).   This masterpiece of gold and pearls takes the form of a myrtle wreath.  It is mounted on a velvet band.

The tiara once belonged to Emily, Dowager Countess of Crawford, who wrote in 1921, when she presented a necklace to the V&A, together with this wreath and a pair of earrings, that they had been made “from the design of Michelangelo, Duke of Sermoneta, in conjunction with Castellani.”



 

Painting of the Day: Portrait of Beatrice Cenci, 1842


Portrait Miniature of Beatrice Cenci
Charles Richard Bone, 1842
After Guido Reni
The Victoria & Albert Museum



The remarkable vibrancy of this painting from 1842 owes to the fact that it was painted in enamel on metal. Enamel, more so than traditional miniature painting (watercolor painted on vellum or ivory) was preferable as a medium in as much as  it does not fade when exposed to light.  However this technique does not allow the freedom that watercolor does.  The V&A describes it best, “The process of painting with enamels is, however, less free than the miniature technique and is fraught with danger. The first colors to be laid on the metal support have to be those needing the highest temperature when firing. More color is added and the enamel re-fired, the process ending with the colors needing the lowest temperature.”  Furthermore, due to the intensive labor associated with the technique, this was a far more expensive option that the usual choices.

This is actually an enamel copy of an earlier portrait by Guido Reni.  Charles Richard Bone, grandson of artist Henry Bone, and son of the celebrated Henry Pierce Bone, has taken great pains to recreate Reni’s portrait of Beatrice Cenci, an Italian noblewoman who was famously at the center of a lurid, Sixteenth-Century Roman murder trial.   

Beatrice Cenci (1577-1599) is said to have murdered her brutal father and was condemned to death by Pope Clement VIII.   The original by the influential Seventeenth-Century Italian painter Guido Reni hangs in the Galleria Barberini, Rome.

Unfolding Pictures: An Italian Piqué Fan, 18th C.


Italian Hand Fan
Naples, 18th C.
The Victoria & Albert Museum




Folding fans, like the one pictured above,  were highly costly luxury items which became popular throughout Europe in the mid-18th-century.  In Paris at the time, there were almost two hundred master fan makers working at any given moment.  However, equally impressive examples were created in Italy and Britain during the Eighteenth Century.  Let’s take a look at this one which heralds from Naples, Italy.

The leaf of this example is supported by tortoiseshell sticks which are inlaid with tiny gold pins and strips (an artistic technique which is called piqué).   Piqué was originally a specialty of Italian workshops who produced such stunning examples for export throughout Europe.
One side of this fan’s lead is painted with a fishing woman adorned in elaborate Rococo dress. The reverse depicts the goddess Diana who is accompanied by three maidens.






Mr. Punch of Belgrave Square, Chapter 24



Chapter 24:
As Fortunate as I

Charles and Gerard both rushed toward their imperiled master.  Charles grabbed Mr. Punch’s attacker by the waist while Gerard forcefully gripped the man’s arms, loosening the hold that the intruder had on the Duke’s neck.

Mr. Punch gasped, stumbling backward.  He looked wildly around the room, panting and groaning, and considered, for a moment, hiding behind the papier mache screen in the corner of the room.  He also considered grabbing the nearby oil lamp and smashing it over this angry fellow’s head.

“Don’t hurt him, please!”  Ellen pleaded, running into the room.  “He doesn’t know what he’s doing.”  She ran to the pale, ginger fellow—his face flushed with confusion.  “Please, let him go.”

“Not a chance, Miss,” Gerard growled. 

“He’s my brother,” Ellen pleaded.

“Don’t care if he’s Prince Albert himself, Miss.”  Gerard snapped.  “No one hurts the Duke!”
The man struggled and growled, trying to get away from Charles and Gerard, but the two men held on tightly.  He growled and frothed horribly.

“Roger, please, calm down!”  Ellen begged.

“Roger?”  Punch sputtered.  “He called himself, Victor, he did.”  Punch didn’t bother trying to imitate Julian.  He couldn’t have cared less if the man who’d just attacked him heard his own manner of speaking.

“I know, Sir.”  Ellen said quickly.  “He’s not…he’s…” She began to cry.  “He’s not well, Sir.  You should understand.”

“That’s enough from you!” Punch shouted angrily, feeling the sting of what Ellen had just implied.  He suddenly felt quite bad about his tone, but he was too upset to apologize for it.
“Miss Barrett,” Punch continued.  “You’d best go outside and shout for the beadle!”

“No, Sir.  Please.  Let me just talk with him.”

“He tried to kill the master!”  Gerard spat.  “Go get a constable, woman!”

“Please, gentlemen, let me just speak with him.  He’ll listen to me.”

“Will he, then?” Punch grumbled, rubbing his tender throat.  He snorted and walked to the bell-push next to the mantel.  Pushing the bell, he spun around and frowned at Miss Barrett  “I don’t think this bloke’s gonna listen to no one, I don’t!  If you won’t go for the beadle, I’ll get someone what will.”

“Your Grace, he’s ill!”  Ellen hurried toward him.  She put her hands on his arm.

“Don’t touch me!”  Punch shouted.  Ellen quickly removed her hands.

“Sir, he’s my brother.”

“Well, then.  Not a very good brother, is he?” Punch narrowed his eyes.  “Came into me own house to choke me, he did.  And, do you know what he said ‘bout you—his own sister?  Called you a disreputable woman.  Said you was a bad, fallen woman.  Don’t sound like the sort of brother what a woman should be protectin’!”

Speaight hurried into the room, responding to the bell.  He gasped when he saw the man being restrained by the red-face Charles and Gerard.

“Go for the beadle, Speaight!”  Punch ordered.  “And, be quick ‘bout it.  This man tried to kill me.”

Speaight looked confused.  He’d never heard that voice come from his master before.  Punch didn’t care.

“Go!”  Punch shouted.

“Please, Mr. Speaight.  Let’s not involve the authorities,” Ellen begged.  “It’s a misunderstanding.  This man is my brother.”

“Miss?”  Speaight squinted.

“Miss Barrett,” Punch scowled, his voice still rough.  He, again, rubbed his throat which grew increasing red as welts in the shape of Roger’s fingers rose on his smooth, white flesh.  “You stood here in this room and said that your brother was quite dull.  This ain’t a man what’s dull, it ain’t.”

Speaight tilted his head to one side, studying his master.

Punch noticed the butler’s odd expression and realized what he’d been doing.  “I’m very upset, Speaight.  Forgive me.” Punch added in a manner more like the one to which Speaight was accustomed.

“Sir,” Ellen began again.  “I did tell you my brother is dull.  But, I was referring to my eldest brother.  I have three.  Roger is the baby of the family.  He’s always been very protective of me.”

“So much so that he comes to me with slander against you?”

“Sir, please.”  Ellen sobbed.

Robert staggered into the room—his eyes squinty and exhausted.  He wore his dressing gown.  “What is going on here?”  Robert gasped.  “I heard the commotion.  What’s happened?”

Ellen hurried toward the doctor.  “Sir, this man is my brother.  He’s made a mistake, but he’s ill.  He doesn’t know what he’s doing.  He’s…he’s different.  You must know exactly what I mean.” She leveled her eyes at Robert.  “He thinks he’s someone else.  Often.  I thought he was being taken care of, but he seems to have…gotten free.”

Robert looked at Mr. Punch.

“Choked me.  The man choked me.”  Punch said plainly.

“What?” Robert barked.  He studied the man being restrained by Charles and Gerard.  “Get him out of here at once!”

“Yes, Sir.”  Charles nodded firmly.  With his arms still around Roger’s waist, Charles pulled the man from the room as Gerard pushed.

“Take him to my study.” Robert said quickly.  “And, hold him there.  Don’t let him loose.”

Charles looked confused.  “Sir?”

“Just take him there, please.”  Robert waved his hand.  “Hold him.”

Robert ran to Punch and examined his companion’s throat.  “Has he hurt you, my dear?” 

“Sure, he has.” Punch moaned.  He looked to Speaight.  “Speaight, I don’t know what to tell you right now.  Please, would you wait in the passage?”

“Yes, of course, Your Grace.” Speaight answered nervously.

With Speaight gone, Punch was able to speak more freely.  “Chum, it were awful.  This man came into me own house with lies ‘bout Miss Barrett and when I tried to defend her, he choked me.  She says he’s her brother only this ain’t the way a brother speaks of his sister.  Tellin’ lies.  I know me own sister is no treat, she ain’t.  But, I’d never go to a stranger to speak ill of her.  And, I certainly wouldn’t tell no lies.”

“They’re not lies, Your Grace.”  Ellen said softly.  “What he told you was true.”

Punch snorted.  “I hate to hear that, I do.”  He shook his head. “Only, it’s no excuse to attack your employer.”

“I’ve been trying to tell you, Your Grace.” Ellen continued.  “He doesn’t know what he’s doing.”

“Please, Miss Barrett.” Robert snapped, still examining Mr. Punch’s throat.  “Hold your tongue for just one moment, would you?”

Ellen’s face flushed and she fell silent.

After awhile, Robert sighed.  “You’ll have a nasty bruise, my dear.”  He put his arms around Mr. Punch and hugged him tightly.

“Oh, don’t worry, Chum,” Punch said softly, feeling safer in Robert’s embrace.  “I had worse, I had.”

“Why didn’t you wake me?” Robert asked.  “If we had a visitor, why didn’t you wake me?  I could have protected you!”  He still held onto his companion.

“You was so tired, Chum.” Punch explained quietly.  “I thought I could handle it, I did.  We had two visitors, we did.  The first one—Lady Constance—she were a nasty lot, but I got through it.  But, this one…”

“Especially with that horrible letter we received the other day.”  Robert released Punch from his embrace.  “We can’t take any chances.”

Mr. Punch nodded.  “I just wanted you to be rested.”

“I know.”  Robert smiled.  “But, I’ve got to look after you.”

Punch nodded again. “Sure.”

Robert put his arm supportively around Punch’s shoulders and turned to face Ellen.  “As for you, Miss Barrett—what is this about?”

“Roger…”  Ellen shook her head, tears welling up in her eyes again.  “My youngest brother.”

“Go on.”

“He’s always been unwell.  All his life.  He’s always had these fits where he’s not been himself.  He can be so gentle and kind and loving.  But, sometimes, Sirs, he thinks he’s someone else.  Several other people, it seems.  I suppose he thought he was the Baron Lensdown.”

“He told me he was.  Least he tol’ me he was Victor Geddes, Miss.”  Mr. Punch said, finally calmer with Robert near him.

“This is not the first time.”  Ellen cried.  “What Roger told you about me was the truth.  I did love my last employer, the baron.  He promised me that he would one day marry me.  However, I soon found that it was a lie.  When I left the baron’s employ, I went to see Roger and I made a mistake in telling him.  He became so enraged.”  She choked for a moment.  “He suddenly began to act as if he was Victor—the baron.  I managed to calm him down, but…”  She sobbed loudly.  “I thought that he’d gotten past it.”

Mr. Punch shook his head.  “Now, Miss Barrett, ain’t no use in tears.  Please, sit.  We’ll talk ‘bout it.”

“I’ll pack my things, Sirs.”  Ellen hiccupped as she sat.  “Today was my afternoon out anyway.  I’ll pack and leave your house immediately.  Just, please, don’t call for the beadle.  I’ll take my brother with me and I’ll take him to the place where he’s been kept.”

“What sort of place is this?”  Robert asked.

“A private suite of rooms.  I’ve hired them.  That’s where my wages go.  There’s a man who looks after Roger.  I’ve been paying him.  I suppose Roger has grown too difficult for him to monitor.  I just wanted to avoid sending him to an…”

“I know.”  Robert interrupted her.  “That’s like a death sentence.  My own mother…”  He paused.  “You say that he’s been like this for a long time?”

“All his life, Sir.”  Ellen nodded.

Mr. Punch and Robert exchanged glances.  Finally, Mr. Punch sighed.  “We might as well say it, Chum.  Sounds as if Roger is like me, it does.  Only he don’t got the luxury of wealth what I got and havin’ a chum to keep him well.”

“I’ll take him with me within the hour,” Ellen nodded.  “I shan’t return.  You won’t be bothered with us again.”

“Don’t be so rash, Miss Barrett.”  Robert shook his head.

“You’ve enough with which to cope, gentlemen.”  Ellen replied.  “You don’t need my family’s pain to add more burden to it.  And, you certainly don’t want a scandalous governess for your child.”

“I don’t think you’re scandalous,” Mr. Punch smiled softly though his throat still pained him terribly.  “I think maybe you fell in love with someone what hurt ya.  Can’t all be as fortunate as I been.  Sometimes folks fall in love with someone who ain’t true to ‘em.”  He recalled his own man, Charles, who had once been in love with the Duke’s sister, Barbara—a disreputable woman if there ever was one.  Charles had been deluded by Barbara and though the man’s intentions were honorable, Barbara had broken his heart and trampled his hopes.  “It happens,” Mr. Punch continued.  “Not everyone’s got the luck what me and Robert got.”

“No, Sir.”  Ellen shook her head.

“We don’t want you to leave.”  Robert agreed.  “Do we, dear Punch?”

“No.” 

“But, sir…”  Ellen began.

“As long as you wish to remain here…” Punch added.

“Of course, I do, Your Grace.  I love being here.  However, something must be done with Roger.  We can’t send for the constable, Sirs.  They would not understand.  They’d treat him harshly.  They’d not realize that he couldn’t help it.”

“I realize, Miss Barrett.”  Mr. Punch said.  “I don’t know what’s troubled your brother, but I know what it means to be different.  Sounds as if your brother and I got many things in common, only, like I said, he just weren’t as fortunate as I.  I don’t know what’d become of me if Dr. Halifax hadn’t helped me and protected me.  Folk don’t understand me neither, they don’t.  Here, I done some things like this me-self, I have.  Pushed a man off a ship once.  Struck folk over the head.  I’ve done things what I didn’t know no better ‘bout.  But, me chum, he made me understand what I were doin’.  Maybe he and I—together—can help your brother.  Maybe we can help him have the sort of quiet, gentle life what I got.”

“You’d consider that, even after what he’s just done to you?”

Robert and Punch smiled at her.

“Miss Barrett,” Punch shook his head.  “Ain’t the first time what someone choked me.  But, I hope it’s the last.  Now that I see what’s…well, what the issue is, I got to help him.  We both do.  I’d never thought ‘bout other folk bein’ like me.  I only worry ‘bout me chum and Colin and the folk in this house, but if there’s other blokes—and ladies, too—what’s like me, ain’t it our responsibility to help ‘em.  Wouldn’t be right if they suffered cause folk don’t know that they’re different.”

“I concur,” Robert nodded.  “We won’t call the beadle, Miss Barrett.  But, will you allow me to examine Roger.  Will you let me talk to him?  I’d also like to accompany him back to the place where he lives so that I might speak with the man who takes care of him.”

“I’d like to go, too.”  Punch smiled.

“You’d do this for us?”

“Course we would.” Punch grinned.

Tears again sprang to Ellen’s eyes.  “I don’t know what to say.”

“Well, you ain’t got to say nothin’ to us.  Go on upstairs to the doctor’s study and speak with your brother.  Try to let him know he’s safe.”

“I will, Sir.”  She nodded, rising from her chair.  “Oh!  What of Mr. Speaight?”

“I’ll speak with him,” Robert answered.  “I’ll tell him that we’ll take care of the situation.  But, please, ask Charles and Gerard to stay with you while you speak with your brother.  If you would, tell them that once I’ve dressed, I’ll join you all.”

“Oh, thank you.  Both of you, Sirs.  I’m so grateful.”

“On with ya, then…” Punch nodded.

With that, Ellen hurried from the room.

Alone with Punch, Robert embraced his companion again.

“I really am fine, Chum.” Punch whispered.

“See that you stay that way.”

“I never thought, truly I didn’t, ‘bout there bein’ any others like me.”

“I have,” Robert sighed.

“Oh?” Mr. Punch asked.

“I’d like to speak with you about that later, dear Punch.”

“Sure,” Punch nodded.  “But, first, let’s help  this poor man as best we can.”

Robert looked into Punch’s eyes.  “How is it possible that I admire you more each day?”

“Dunno.”  Punch shrugged.  “Guess we both feel the same.”

“You are correct, dear Punch, we are fortunate.”

“All the more reason to give this fella a chance, Chum.”  Punch sighed.  “Maybe he can have the same freedom one day.”

“We’ll see to it, dear Punch.”  Robert nodded.  “I swear it.”



Did you miss Chapters 1-23?  If so, you can read them in the Mr. Punch of Belgrave Square Chapter Archive.  Come back tomorrow for Chapter 25.

Treat of the Week: A Weekend Feast




This weekend was excellent from the standpoint of food.  Bertie and I went to visit my parents and we all enjoyed a magnificent feast.  The meal began with my mother’s homemade braciola (pronounced brah-jole) and polenta.  We haven’t had this in quite some time, so I was particularly happy about it.  Braciola (sometimes inaccurately spelled braciole) is an Italian dish wherein a tender beef roulade is filled with cheeses, herbs (and sometimes spinach and pine nuts).  It’s smothered in a magnificent, chunky tomato sauce.  My mother let this delicious dish simmer in its sauce in the oven in a cast-iron pot which made it all the more tender and glorious.

Polenta is a dense paste of cornmeal which has been boiled (usually in stock).  Sometimes this is served as it is, but often, it is formed into patties or into a load which is sliced and either fried or baked.  I love my mother’s polenta.  She takes the slices and bakes them topped with fresh herbs and mozzarella and Tuscan cheese.  This was served with the same amazing sauce in which the braciola had been baked.  Fresh spinach rounded out the meal.




But, the treats didn’t stop with the main course.  For dessert, we enjoyed a new recipe.  My mother had prepared a beautiful coffee cake—baked in a mold.  This sour-cream-based cake was swirled (by created three layers within the mold) with cocoa, coffee and cinnamon.  Dusted with powdered sugar, it was tender with a gorgeous texture and rich with an elegant mocha flavor.

Yes, it was a very good weekend indeed.








Figure of the Day: Il Comico, 1850-1900



Il Comico
Italy, 1850-1900
The Victoria & Albert Museum


This ceramic figurine depicts a gent wearing a black mask in the style of the Italian Commedia dell’Arte.  Most likely, it was produced in the second half of the Nineteenth Century, since it appears  to be one of a set representing various characters from the “Artistic Comedy.”

The character depicted here may be the “Comico,” or comical character, who often wore brightly colored clothes to stand apart from the rest of the characters.   Il Comico’s function was both as a member of the cast and a character who talked directly to the audience, serving as a narrator to interpret the action.

The piece, and its brothers and sisters, was made in Italy sometime between 1850 and 1900.

Object of the Day, Museum Edition: An Italian Linen Handkerchief, 1600



Italian Linen Handkerchief
1600
The Victoria and Albert Museum


Plain linen handkerchiefs have been around almost literally forever and have long served the same purpose that they do to this day.  However, in the Sixteenth Century, a fashion arose wherein decorative handkerchiefs carried purely as fashionable accessories.  These delicate articles were popularly given as fashionable gifts, especially on New Year’s Day.  This was a habit which was especially enjoyed by Queen Elizabeth I.  However, the gift of a handkerchief usually carried romantic significance.  During courtship, the couple exchanged symbolic gifts such as gloves, ribbons, rings and handkerchiefs. The acceptance of such a gift indicated a binding commitment and, as the V&A reminds us, “could be used as proof of betrothal in the case of any disputes.

This Italian example dating to the early Seventeenth Century (about 1600, actually) has whitework embroidery which has been worked in detached buttonhole and satin stitches, needle lace and cutwork decoration.

Cutwork adornment is the earliest form of needle lace and was originally based on a woven ground, from which areas have been cut away. Elaborate cutwork was an important decoration on fashionable dress for both men and women from about 1570 to 1620.  As was the style of this era, the cutwork decoration is located at the handkerchief’s four corners .

The handkerchief has survived all of these centuries because it was intended as an accessory and was never used for less-elegant purposes.  Somehow, it ended up in the collection of  the English lace dealer Samuel Chick from whom it was purchased by the V&A in 1906.