Mastery of Design: The Marret Frères et Jarry Brooch, 1875

Brooch of Gold, Emeralds and Diamonds
c. 1875
The Victoria & Albert Museum

This gold brooch, decorated with enamel and set with emeralds and rose-cut diamonds was made in Paris circa 1875 by the jewelry firm of  Marret Frères et Jarry.

This transitional piece, in the form of a floral head, marks the ushering-in of heavily-jeweled Naturalistic floral sprays which dominated the end of the Nineteenth Century.

History's Runway: A Walking Dress Ensemble, 1817-20

Walking Dress
1817-1820
The Victoria & Albert Museum

This day outfit dates between 1817 and 1820 and echoes military uniform in design, givimg it a decidedly masculine flavor. Passementerie (trim) in the form of crescent-shaped moulds, looped cord and balls covered in floss silk replace the gilt or silver buttons which would have adored the similarly-styled men's regimental coats. The tassels on the collar ends and cuff bands evoke the tassels which adorned boots, hats, sashes and cap lines of military accessories.

Military styles were worked into ladies' fashionable dress in Britain largely due to the influence of the Napoleonic Wars (1793-1815). The uniforms worn during this period were some of the most elaborate in the history of military dress with bright, vivid colors, frog (clasp) enclosures, braid and tassels.  These uniforms fueled the imagination of fashion designers for years to come.

Sunday Morning Special: Flip the Frog, 1933

Flip the Frog was a popular character created by the great American cartoonist Ub Iwerks. Flip starred in a series of cartoons produced by Power's Celebrity Pictures and distributed through Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer from 1930 to 1933.

Other characters in the "Flip" series included Flip's dog, the mule Orace, and a dizzy neighborhood spinster. Flip is thought to  have developed from the "Silly Symphonies" cartoon "Night," animated by Ub Iwerks while working for  Walt Disney in 1930.

After a number of disputes between the two (can you imagine that Disney was hard to work with?) Iwerks left Disney and went on open a cartoon studio of his own and receive a salary of $300 a week from Pat Powers, an offer that Disney couldn't match at the time.

Print of the Day: Theatrical Leap Frog, 1804

Theatrical Leap Frog
Print, hand-colored, 1804
The Victoria  & Albert Museum

This hand-colored engraving entitled "Theatrical Leap Frog" is a caricature of the child actor Master Betty leaping over John Philip Kemble--a famed English actor of the late Eighteenth and early Nineteenth Centuries.  It was published in London by Rudolph Ackerman (1765-1834).

It represents the growing popularity of novelty acts as they surpassed legitimate drama in fashion.  The original was drawn by Thomas Rowlandson.

Mr. Punch of Belgrave Square Will Continue Monday

Poor Mr. Punch.  He had a few weeks of peace with Robert and Colin after they returned to England from New Orleans.  They'd settled in nicely to Punch's/the Duke's handsome Belgrave Square mansion, hired a pleasant governess for Colin and enjoyed a dutiful staff (with the exception of one nasty house maid called Hortence).  Punch even managed to navigate a meeting with Prince Albert without revealing the fact that he was two men in one.

All seemed to be going well.  Punch was designing a gift for Queen Victoria (with stag's teeth from Prince Albert's kills) and had all sorts of good food to eat courtesy of their cook, Mrs. Pepper.  Colin seemed content with his new governess and his old friend, Gamilla.  Robert was establishing himself as a popular physician (he only lost one patient--the old Lord Glencaron) and was very happy with his new life with Mr. Punch.  Gerard and Charles were grateful form their new positions.  Even Dog Toby had no complaints.

But, then, Hortence was caught by Ellen, the governess, snooping around the Duke's door.  So, of course Robert had to dismiss her.  The nasty maid threatened to go to the press with a story of the Duke's "madness" and the relationship between the Duke and Robert.  Robert didn't want to worry Punch with this, so he kept it to himself. 

Things became a little more tense when Ellen received a mysterious gift of flowers from a man named "Victor."  Could Victor have been Victor Geddes, the Baron of Lensdown--Ellen's former employer with whom she was rumored to have had an affair?  The man who delivered the flowers, according to the kitchen-maid, Jenny, bore no resemblance to the baron.

Ellen was further rattled to find a letter addressed to the Duke on the front steps.  Mr. Punch discovered that unsigned letter was a threat to expose him as "mad" and Ellen suggested that Hortence was behind it.  Punch was shocked to learn that Robert had hidden Hortence's threats from him, but the two made up.

Later, Punch was disturbed by the arrival of two visitors.  One was the nosy Lady Constance whose dinner invitation seemed to hide a darker intention.  The other was a man who called himself, Victor Geddes.  But this man was clearly not the baron of the same name.

A mystery is brewing at No.65 Belgrave Square which promises to further compromise the peaceful home life of Robert and Mr. Punch.  Matters will become more complicated when Punch is summoned by a very pregnant Queen Victoria.  What does Her Majesty have to do with these peculiar events?  Meanwhile, Ellen finds herself in the middle of a war which could ruin her.  Charles finds a new friend and Gerard will be tempted by an old friend.  Furthermore, a face from Robert's past will cause some trouble for Belgravia's most popular doctor.

We ended the week with Mr. Punch being choked by the man who called himself Victor Geddes.  Ellen, on the other hand, referred to the man as “Roger,” when she begged him to unhand her employer.  Could this dangerous fellow really be her brother?  There’s a lot in store for you this week.  You won’t want to miss a chapter. 

If you've missed any chapters of Mr. Punch of Belgrave Square, you can read them in the Chapter Archive and short summaries of each chapter give you an advanced taste.

The Home Beautiful: The Hermes Frog Door-knocker, 1932

Frog Door Knocker
Gertrude Hermes, 1932
The Victoria & Albert Museum

Gertrude Hermes, the designer of this attractive brass door knocker, was primarily known as a wood engraver and sculptor but she was also a notable painter, printmaker and book illustrator.

This charming frog door knocker is one of a series of doorknockers that Gertrude designed for her friends as fun gifts.  Hermes was, notably, the first woman engraver to be elected to the Royal Academy in 1963.

Hermes' preferred subjects, in sculpture and prints, were animals and children. She executed these with the same strong, but fluid, style that she has demonstrated here.

Object of the Day, Museum Edition: An Italian Pounce Box, 17th C.

Pounce Box
Bronze
Italy, Seventeenth Century
The Victoria & Albert Museum

A pounce box was a writing accessory with a perforated top for sprinkling sand or pounce - a powdered gum - that fixed the ink to paper.

This example is a bronze pounce box in the form of half of a shell which is being rolled by a frog. It was made in Italy at some point in the Seventeenth Century.