Mastery of Design: The Hipkins Choker, 1800-70

The Victoria & Albert Museum

Austrian and South German jewelers of the Nineteenth Century took pride in producing the most popular form of neck adornment, Kropfkette (translating to “goiter chain”), a choker consisting of multiple rows of chain with a dramatic clasp at the front. As you might imagine, these chokers were originally worn to hide the ugly swelling caused by goiter, a disease of iodine deficiency endemic in the high Alps.

This choker from the V&A is a perfect example of the Kropfkette showing the traditional use of filigree and the preferred gemstone of the region—garnets. This example is comprised of eight graduated rows of box chain, with a large rectangular snap clasp at the front. The filigree scrolls are set with garnets and pearls. Made in Austria between 1800 and 1870, this necklace is in near-perfect condition.